VANCOUVER

See lazy grizzlies, shop fab markets and feel the bounce of a suspension bridge

Those who have been to Vancouver breathlessly describe outdoor activities, ranging from hiking and biking in Stanley Park to bear tours and skiing in Whistler, before moving onto the subjects of great shopping and superb cuisine.

Well, for a city person like me, two out of three ain't bad.

I was beginning to dread the thought of all the great outdoors I go out of my way to avoid -- even without the possibility of meeting a black bear or grizzly bear -- on a daily basis. Why would I change while on vacation?

My idea of travel is to simply blend in with the locals rather than plunging into tourist mode of "doing it all," running here and there to get to every site deemed a must-see by local visitor bureaus and tour operators.

Nevertheless, on my first visit to the city, I ended up doing just that.

After enjoying visits to Seattle and Portland, Ore., for more than a decade, and hearing about Vancouver as a similar, though bigger, alternative to those cities, I finally decided to take a look.

It's natural for Americans, acquisitive as we are, to claim Vancouver as one of our own. It's similar enough to our Pacific Northwest to be considered an extension of our country, sharing the same language, similar Northwest/Pacific Rim cuisine and road rules, although Vancouver's drivers are unbelievably yielding. If a pedestrian so much as looks as if he's going to step off a sidewalk, four lanes of traffic will come to a complete stop to allow him safe passage. Unheard of, even in the so-called Aloha State. It's no wonder their "WALK" signal features the figure of a man, similar to ours, though with a jauntier, relaxed gait.

In spite of the generally laid-back ambience, Vancouver is a city with a deadline to meet in advance of the 2010 Olympic and Paralympic Winter Games. While Vancouver hosts figure skating, ice hockey and short-track speed skating events, a bulk of the competitions will take place in Whistler (see sidebar), a two-hour drive north of Vancouver.

Vancouver's downtown Convention Center will triple its size by the time construction is completed in 2009, the deadline for most public-improvement projects.

Drivers might find themselves inconvenienced by a few closed roads, but the sight of cranes and construction as the condo-ization of Vancouver continues is a testament to its status as one of North America's most beautiful, livable and, therefore, rapidly growing cities.

It has also developed a reputation as Hollywood North, with a booming TV, film and animation industry. I ran across film crews in Stanley Park and in front of a downtown post office, and if you want to increase your likelihood of brushes with stardom, the Sutton Place Hotel at 845 Burrard St. is a renowned celebrity habitat.

When urbanite types talk about travel to Vancouver, they are no doubt referring to the West End, Vancouver's lively, walkable downtown core which is packed with restaurants, boutiques, coffee bars and nightclubs. If your stay is brief, you might try enjoying the city life by night and take in the following by light of day:

Stanley Park

It's said you can't say you've been to Vancouver unless you've been to Stanley Park. Vancouverites are proud of the park, and it is the first recommendation they offer to out-of-towners.

With this in mind, we booked a stay at Sylvia Hotel, set across from the beach on English Bay and within walking distance to the beach park where you'll see runners, bicyclists, families playing volleyball, dog walkers and others content to sit and stare out at the ocean, sharing the grounds with Canada geese and seagulls.

You can access Stanley Park by starting at English Bay. It's a longer walk on Denman Street to the park, but that puts you in closer proximity to one of the tram stops in the park, offering an overview of its 1,000 acres. The tram ride is free during peak months, and you can get out and walk at sites that interest you most. On Denman you'll pass a number of shops that will rent bikes for touring the park on your own.

One of the primary stops is at the Vancouver Aquarium, home to Canadian reef and aquatic displays. The stars of the museum are the sea otters and ghostly white Beluga whales, with sea lions also vying for attention with vociferous barks and begging behaviors as they scan the crowds for someone who might offer a bite of food. Resist, because they have special diets and set chow times.

Before you even get to the ocean mammals, you'll pass through the crowded Amazon Gallery where people linger to see exotic birds in a minijungle setting, and children manage to capture butterflies lingering over bright orange nectar-filled feeders.

Grouse Mountain

Flying into Vancouver at night, you'll see a stretch of lights reaching toward the heavens. This is your first encounter with Grouse Mountain, an easy 20-minute drive from the heart of the city, where the SkyRide gondolas wait to take you 3,800 feet above the treetops in a zippy eight minutes. At 300 feet shy of the summit, you'll have a vantage of the city on clear days.

Vancouver Address Book Prices quoted are in Canadian dollars: TOUR Bloedel Floral Conservatory: This tropical hothouse under a glass dome in located in Queen Elizabeth Park at 33rd and Cambie. For Hawaii travelers the sight of orchids, koi, finches and parrots won't be anything new, but I imagine it must be an odd and delightful miracle to Vancouverites. Admission is $4. Capilano Suspension Bridge: Visit before or after a trip to Grouse Mountain. It's en route at 3735 Capilano Road, North Vancouver. Rates (without tax) through May 19 are $23.95 for adults, $21.95 for over 65; $18.45 for students 17 and older with ID; $13.90 for ages 13 to 16; $7.40 for ages 6 to 12; and free for younger than 6. Open daily except Christmas. Summer hours are 8:30 a.m. to 8 p.m. Winter hours are 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. Call 604-985-7474. Granville Public Market: Open 9 a.m. to 7 p.m. daily, where you can pick up a quick, portable meal. Grouse Mountain, The Peak of Vancouver: It's an easy 20-minute drive from the heart of the city to Grouse Mountain, where a SkyRide gondola whisks you 3,800 feet above the treetops in eight minutes, 300 feet shy of the summit, with a vantage of the city on clear days. Park admission is $29.95 for adults, $27.95 for 65 and older, $16.95 for ages 13 to 18, and $10.95 for children 5 to 12. Visit www.grousemountain.com. Vancouver Trolley: If you don't care to rent a car to get to Grouse Mountain, the Vancouver Trolley will get you there at sunset for $60 adults, $58 seniors, $47 for ages 13 to 18, and $30 for ages 5 to 12, including SkyRide admission. For Vancouver Trolley Co. information, call 604-801-5515 or visit www.vancouvertrolley.com. Gray Line also offers tours to Capilano Suspension Bridge. Call 604-879-3363. Vancouver Aquarium: Exhibits bring you face to face with sea lions and adorable sea otters. Don't miss the feeding of the Beluga whales. In Stanley Park. Admission is $18.50 for adults. HOTELS Sylvia Hotel: The Grand Dame of Vancouver hotels was built to human scale in 1912. It's comfortable but could use a bit of upgrading without changing its graceful facade, partially cloaked in Virginia creeper. It will appeal most to those who also appreciate old homes and is not a place for those who seek novelty or luxury, but its beautiful setting across from English Bay can't be beat. Rates run about $169 to $189 for a one-bedroom suite to $319 for a two-bedroom suite with kitchen. Pan-Pacific Hotel: This first-class property at Canada Place welcomes visitor input, resulting in some unusual amenities, such as bathroom scales and oxygen canisters, said to work at combating jet lag. You'll also find bottled Fiji water and bath products from London's Gilchrist and Soames. Rooms start at about $175 to $270 per night. Westin Grand Hotel: This all-suite hotel with workout facilities and heated lap pool puts you in the center of Robson Street shopping, with every modern convenience available in your room or just outside the property, including a post office a block away. Rooms start at about $160 to $225 per night. At 433 Robson. Call 604-604-1999.

On cloudy days you'll see nothing but fog. That's OK. The view is only one of many pleasures awaiting at the top. During the summer, most visitors head down the mountain paths in hope of spotting resident grizzlies Grinder and Coola. Both are orphans being raised and studied by the Refuge for Endangered Wildlife, a research, education and conservation center housed at the top of Grouse Mountain.

While hiking along the path circling the grizzly's enclosure, blocked off by only a thin fence of electrified wire, I couldn't help but think of the Grizzly Man, Timothy Treadwell, who was killed by a grizzly in Alaska. I felt certain that an enraged grizzly would not feel a thing if it were to charge through that wire, so I treaded cautiously.

There's no guarantee you'll actually see a bear as you circle the wilderness landscape, and it might be easier to simply follow the crowd to see where they're congregating.

After circling almost the entire enclosure, I came across people with cameras in hand staring at a distant patch of fur. It was Grinder, snoozing amid a cover of rocks and bushes. Every once in a while, you could see a patch of his yellow fur rising with his heavy breathing. There was much excitement when he finally lifted his head, only to peer at the crowd, and, perhaps in search of privacy, lumber off into the bushes. The crowd lingered awhile, although an encore appearance was unlikely.

For those who might never scale the mountain, the mountain will come to you via Internet. At www.grousemountain.com you can get weather and seasonal updates, while at www.wavelit.com you can check out the Grizzly Cams, where your chance of bear-spotting is just as good as it would be by being there.

Grouse Mountain is also home to gray wolves, retirees from the movie industry that, too tame to be released into the wild, are now free to enjoy the large, protected mountain habitat.

During winter months, Grouse Mountain is open to snowboarding and skiing until 10 p.m. There is also an ice skating pond and five trails for snowshoeing, with lessons available for all activities.

If you get hungry, the cafeteria-style Lupins Cafe offers coffee, hot chocolate and sandwiches for about CAD$6 to $8.95. More substantial fare is served up in the Altitudes Bistro at the fine-dining restaurant the Observatory, which offers a view of the city on clear days.

Capilano bridge

En route back to the city, stop at the Capilano Suspension Bridge and Park, where you can swing and sway like Indiana Jones. It's no endeavor for anyone with a fear of heights.

Following the "do unto others" rule, try not to spook others by bouncing and jumping on the bridge. For many, simply swaying is scary enough.

Vancouver's first visitor attraction started as a simple hemp rope-and-cedar plank bridge built in 1889 by George Grant Mackay, a Scottish civil engineer and land developer. Today's steel-cable bridge spans 450 feet across and 230 feet above the Capilano River. Another series of seven bridges rises 100 feet above a forest of cedar and Douglas fir trees.

Granville Public Market

You won't need a boat to get to Granville Island and its grand market. As picturesque as it might be to catch one of the little blue False Creek Ferries ($2.50 per adult, $1.25 per child) from the Aquatic Centre at the end of Thurlow Street over to the "island," you can save some time by driving underneath the Granville Bridge. Of course, the problem then is finding a place on the small island to park your car.

It's always sad to me that cities with the best markets also tend to be cities with the best restaurants, so what's a foodie to do? I always choose to stay in suites with full kitchens that allow cooking and snack storage, but I'm also torn by the desire to try as many restaurants as possible within the span of a typical vacation.

Certainly, you could save a few dollars here by skipping restaurants and feasting on Granville Public Market's bounty alone. The market outshines Seattle's Pike Place Market not only with its abundance of produce, but also its prepared foods, from dolma to eggplant wraps to red pepper or mushroom tortellinis ready for adding to a sauce of your own making. You'll also find an array of bread, soup, cheese, pâté and smoked seafood.

As for nonedibles, crafters busily work while offering their felted flowers, cut-paper greeting cards, jewelry and hats for sale, and for those who travel to relax, a touch of aromatherapy.

After looking around, stop in at Granville Island Brewery, or simply "GI," for its Bavarian-style Island Lager.

Chinatown

You'll know you're in Chinatown when you see the dragon banners hanging from lampposts. Vancouver's Chinatown looks like Chinatowns all around the world, though more orderly than most. Dried fish and other fare are evenly stacked such that it seems it would be a shame to scoop up a couple and ruin the symmetry.

While there, sample tea from Fujian and other provinces at the Treasure Green Tea Co., at 227 Georgia St., and check out the variety of savory cakes at the Boss Bakery & Restaurant, 532-534 Main St.

Where Honolulu Chinatown offerings are limited to sweet bean cakes, the Boss offerings include savory moon cakes featuring combinations of abalone -- or shark fin or chicken -- and mixed nuts with egg yolk.

It's free to walk through Sun Yat-Sen Park, which leads to the Sun Yat-Sen Classical Chinese Garden, a reproduction of a 14th-century Suzhou scholar's garden, where admission is CAD$8.50.

Chinatown covers about eight blocks between Georgia and Hastings streets and east of Main. Be careful about straying too far from the produce stands and restaurants, because the area immediately outside is home to homeless shelters and drug-rehabilitation facilities, and sketchy characters abound.

Most people will also suggest a drive to Deep Cove, at the easternmost corner of the North Shore, for hiking, canoeing and kayaking where mountains and ocean converge, as well as a day trip to picturesque Victoria, the provincial capital of B.C., by bus and ferry or helijet. I skipped ther this time because I always believe in saving some sites for my inevitable return trip.

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If You Go ... Getting there Since entering the Hawaii market in the fall of 2005, Harmony Airlines has made it easier for residents to discover Canada, with 19 direct flights a week from Hawaii to British Columbia and Alberta. The airline is an industry leader in full-service air travel, but if you do have the money to splurge, consider an upgrade to HarmonyOne business class (about CAD$1,000 one way) where seats are spacious and you'll be pampered with champagne and will dine off menus created by Lumière's celebrated chef Rob Feenie (see dining sidebar). It's not the same as actually visiting the restaurant, but I never expected to see seared sashimi on a plane and it was a pleasant surprise. We flew during the Great Liquid Ban of September and were happy to discover that one of the amenities offered by HarmonyOne is a toiletry kit of aromatherapy products from the Canadian company Escents. A Mandarin orange-flavored lip balm was a particular lifesaver. Somehow, being plied with movies, music and conversation with the amiable crew made the five-hour flight feel reduced to two hours. Of course, the danger is that you might never want to fly coach or any other airline again. Exchange rate I thought that the slightly higher value of the American dollar might offer slight savings, and although things like the hotel costs quoted in Canadian dollars on the Internet do turn out to be cheaper in American dollars, Vancouver is an expensive city to visit. For now, because the American dollar is worth slightly more than the Canadian, stores will gladly accept your money on an even exchange. By not exchanging your money, you will lose about 8 percent to 10 percent in transactions. When I visited in mid-September, exchange outlets were buying American dollars at rates of $1.05 at hotels and post offices to $1.11 at Gastown Currency Exchange, generally at a cost of $1 to $1.90 per $100. On the Net » www.tourismvancouver.com