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All eyes are focused on Whistler in advance of 2010 Olympics

Conventioneers and those in search of R&R have flocked to Whistler in recent years, joining the thrill seekers who arrive annually in search of a downhill rush, whether on skis or snowboards during winter or on a mountain bike in summer.

For a heavy dose of adrenaline, they can overlook the enclave's Disneyland turn, shaping up as a picture-perfect village of Swiss-style mountain chalets plunked down into the Canadian wilderness at the base of Whistler and Blackcomb mountains and at an elevation of 2,214 feet.

The Olympics has been Whistler's destiny since a group of Vancouver businessmen opened Garibaldi Whistler Mountain to recreational skiers in 1966. Back then the facilities were limited to a four-person gondola, two T-bars and a day lodge.

Today, Whistler/Blackcomb encompasses 8,000 acres of terrain with more than 200 marked trails. Thirty-three lifts carry skiers and snowboarders to 12 alpine bowls and three glaciers. Runs are designated 20 percent for beginners, 55 percent for intermediates and 25 percent for experts. There are also 29 hiking trails, 44 bike trails and nine golf courses from Furry Creek to Lillooet.

And there's more to come as Whistler gears up to host the Winter Olympics beginning in February 2010, with three sets of visitors in mind.

For the rugged, athletic crowd, the Whistler Sliding Center materializing near the base of Blackcomb will be home to bobsled, luge and skeleton events. A Nordic Centre is also under construction in Whistler's Callaghan Valley, where crosscountry skiing, biathlon, ski jumping and Nordic combined events will be featured.

For back-to-nature types, there are bear tours by van with "The Bear Man" Michael Allen from May through mid-October (call 604-932-3434), and plenty of hiking/snowshoeing trails amid majestic forests and lakes.

And, an entire industry has sprung up to deal with another creature, the tired couch potato who arrives in search of rejuvenation and pampering through luxurious spa and massage treatments. Visitors might even want to book a treatment ahead of time in anticipation of the after-effects of a day on the slopes or the two-hour drive from Vancouver. That drive is expected to be cut to one hour after highway renovations are completed.

We stayed at the Whistler Hilton Resort & Spa, which bears the distinction of being the oldest and newest hotel complex in Whistler, having originally opened in 1982 as the Delta Mountain Inn. It was reborn as a Hilton property last year.

As a destination for the pooch-toting jet-set, it's also a dog-friendly property that even has a canine amenity upon your furry friend's arrival: The International Doggie Jet Set Kit includes Therapeutic Doggie Massage Cream, "Bone Apa Treats," ID tag and doggie lead, doggie wipes and a puppy postcard.

Romantic souls might note that as the oldest property, the Hilton has the distinction of having a fireplace in almost every room, with clean-burning logs rather than smoke-inducing natural woods.

After the drive, I was content to soak in the hotel's hot tub, while others might want to plan ahead and make an appointment at the Hilton's Artesia Spa.

When, sufficiently rested, you are ready to step out from your comfortable cocoon, get your bearings in Whistler Village, a compact Alpine-styled piazza lined with bars and restaurants filled with raucous crowds. Beyond the watering holes, shoppers will also find mainstream stores like the Gap, Billabong and Guess in miniature, amid local specialty boutiques such as Can-Ski Glacier Shop, Sportstop and Evolution, focusing on outdoor BMX, mountain bike, ski, snowboard and skateboard gear and apparel.

Whistler once drew a primarily winter crowd, but today, the village bustles year-round with such warm-weather spring and summer activities as zip-line, bungee and ATV adventures, in addition to such human-powered activities as hiking and tree trekking on wooden platforms built into the forest canopy.

If you already went to the top of Grouse Mountain in Vancouver, you'll need to take another gondola ride 6,000 feet to the top of Whistler's Blackcomb Mountain for an experience that will take your breath away. The entrance is at the back of the Hilton property.

For those who aspire to ascending the Alps one day, Coast Mountain Guides' summer glacier hikes accommodate beginning to skilled ice climbers. A four-hour walk deemed "easy" includes instruction on glaciology and ice formation, as well as a how-to on walking with crampons and an ice ax. This cost is $97 for adults and $77 for kids 7 to 16. A family pass for two adults and two kids is $317. More challenging adventures can last one or two days at $347 per day, and a Summer Spearhead Traverse -- known as the Canadian version of the European Alps' Haute Route -- involves crossing 12 glaciers from Blackcomb to Whistler Mountain over four days.

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If you go ... Getting There From Vancouver, cross the Lion's Gate Bridge and take Highway 99 all the way to Whistler. With a two-year deadline to add another lane to the 75-mile, two-hour route, expect dust and construction delays. The road seems to change daily. If you want to avoid driving under such conditions, a train ride via the Whistler Mountaineer will whisk you to Whistler in 3 1/2 hours. Recent classic coach rates from Vancouver were $189 round trip for adults and $99 for ages 2 to 11. For more information, call 888-687-RAIL (7245) or 604-606-8460. Dining There are plenty of options ranging from Ruby Tuesday to Teppan Village for theatrical Japanese-style fare. Many flock to Black's Pub & Original Ristorante at the heart of Whistler Village, where diners can sit outdoors for a view of the mountains and all the bicycle and foot traffic. On the menu is wild Pacific salmon, hand-tossed pizzas and Black's baby back ribs, at $11.95 to $25 per entree. For a taste of the Alps, there's also the Bavaria Restaurant offering fondue and schnizels at 4369 Main St., and Crepe Montagne, 4368 Main St., offering crepes plus cheese and chocolate fondues. Spas Artesia Spa: Treatments on-site or in your hotel suite, at the Hilton Whistler Resort & Spa. Sport therapy, deep tissue, pregnancy and aromatherapy massage ranges from $95 to $125. Synchronized massage has two practitioners working on opposite sides of your body for 30 minutes at $115. The Artesia Bliss package includes nearly a workday's worth of pampering, from sea kelp salt glow treatment, hydrodermic lift facial and massage to makeup application and French manicure and pedicure, at $499 for six hours. Call 604-938-9381. Solarice Wellness Centre + Spa: Sport therapy, deep tissue, Swedish, shiatsu and aromatherapy massage ranges from $120 to $185. Pregnancy massage is $140 to $195. A 90- to 120-minute Ultimate Moor Mud Wrap is $215 to $285, and a Jet Lag reviver tui na massage is $125 for 50 minutes. At 202-4230 Gateway Drive. Call 604-935-1222. Taoxan Sari Royal Heritage Spa: Described as the only authentic Javanese spa in North America, it offers treatments derived from the royal court of Java that employ aromatic herbs and spices. Inside Summit Lodge & Spa, 4359 Main St. Call 604-938-5982.