SHOP

To shop in Vancouver, Robson Street's one haunt for fashion fanatics

It's a joy to enter a world where people understand fashion and where it's not unusual to be praised for a jacket that's "so Balenciaga" or a look that's "so Rei," as in Commes de Garçons designer Rei Kawakubo, or bond with someone over an Ann Demeulmeester pin.

When it comes to shopping in Vancouver, the first words you'll hear is "Robson Street." The street might as well be a mall because it's lined with dozens of mall and specialty boutiques offering everything from jewelry to shoes.

If your time in the city is brief, I recommend summoning all your willpower and waiting to shop Robson at night, when most stores stay open to about 10 p.m. This would free a day for sightseeing, and if your favorite boutique happens to be one of those that closes early, you can always return in the morning.

On Robson you'll find boutiques such as Zara's (men's and women's), Club Monaco, Mexx, Banana Republic and Blue Ruby. You'll also see an upscale Sears with a ground-floor cosmetics department that rivals that of Neiman Marcus stateside.

For those who try to steer clear of the mainstream, one of my favorite stops on Robson is True Value Vintage, which offers a mix of vintage clothing and accessories and new retro designs sewn from vintage fabrics by the likes of New York's Zachary's Smile. At 710 Robson St. Call 604-685-5403.

Other shopping can be found in the Kitsilano neighborhood at West 4th Avenue and West Broadway; Yaletown, comparable in ambience to New York's Meatpacking District and often referred to as "Little SoHo"; and in the older part of the city known as Gastown, where if you peek into every nook and cranny, you'll luck into Komakino.

This cavernous subterranean lifestyle boutique for men who love clothes is home to top international designers Yohji Yamamoto, Raf Simons, Ann Demeulmeester, Costume International, Number Nine, Gianni Barbato, Mihana Yasuhiro and Darkshadow.

Komakino owner Campbell McDougall works guerrilla style, opening buzz-worthy boutiques to run for a year before moving on to another site, maybe even another city.

The knowing are sure to follow. The boutique is currently housed in an abandoned cellar in a 109-year-old heritage building. Visit www.komakino.ca.

Here are other boutiques worth a peek:

» John Fluevog: Scalloped heels, lavish multicolored leathers and an early-20th-century sensibility are combined in original fetish-worthy men's and women's footwear. Visit www.fluevog.com.

» Gravity Pope: If you've never experienced shoe lust, you will here when you see the most magnificent footwear for men and women from Hugo Boss, etc. At 2205 West 4th St. Call 604-731-7673.

» Hill's Native Art: Wood carvings, jewelry and more by Northwest Coast tribes and Inuits at 165 Water St., Gastown. Call 604-685-4249.

» Frances Hill's: Quality clothing, accessories and made in Canada gift items featured at 151 Water St., Gastown. Call 604-685-1828.

» Mala Kuja: Flirty, flowing feminine designs by Marina Mikulic at 1067 Hamilton St., Yaletown. Call 604-685-4414 or visit www.malakuja.com.

» Mandula: Edgy and organic original clothing and accessory designs by Hungarian designer Hajnalka Mandula are winning an audience in New York, L.A. and Miami, as well as at the designer's 882 Homer St. boutique. She's a proponent of natural fibers and earthy handmade garments that skim the body with an ethereal, though thoroughly urban, grace. Call 604-720-3787.

» Moulé: Designer apparel for men and women as well as luxurious accessories for the home. At 1994 West 4th St. Call 604-732-4066.

» Retro Rock Vintage Clothing: Shop for '70s-era rock and pop culture T-shirts from the original "Charlie's Angels" shirt to "Keep on Truckin'." Find leather jackets, studded belts and boots as well, with little of the 21st century creeping into the mix. At 594 Davie St. Call 604-872-7665.

Shopaholics rejoice (while you can)!

Before leaving Canada, be sure to pick up the red-and-white Tax Refund for Visitors brochure, generally available at your hotel front desk.

Through the Visitor Tax Rebate and Ontario Sales Tax Refund programs, visitors who make a minimum purchase of $200 in hotel accommodations and/or goods are entitled to a refund of GST taxes (6 percent of sales) on individual receipts totaling $50 or more.

The rebate does not apply to meals, entertainment or transportation costs, but it can take some of the guilt out of a sudden desire to splurge on jewelry or a new wardrobe.

If leaving the country by plane, your receipts must be stamped by a Canadian customs agent; if leaving by train, bus or ferry, include your original boarding pass when mailing in your receipts.

You can also download the form when you get home, by visiting www.ccra.gc.ca/visitors.

Various companies offer easy mailing envelopes and forms also available at hotels, but these companies charge up to 20 percent of your refund for performing the task. They also often ask for a credit card number as one method of getting your rebate. The only method of reimbursement through the government is through a check made out in American dollars.

While processing is said to take six to eight weeks, my rebate -- mostly involving hotel taxes -- took three months to arrive.

Plan your trip and enjoy the rebate while you can. The program will be eliminated on April 1.