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PHOTOS BY DEAN SENSUI / DSENSUI@STARBULLETIN.COM
André Soltner, center, spoke with D.K. Kodama, left, and Russell Siu after the two competed in the Big Island Cookoff. Kodama and Siu prevailed over a Food & Wine magazine team.




Chef’s chef lends
taste to the setting


Iron chef: Masaharu Morimoto
Judging the isles' tastiest tomatoes


By Betty Shimabukuro
betty@starbulletin.com

Amid all the celebrity fuss and bother on Sunday, one slight, white-haired man in a plain blue polo shirt walked the set, barely noticed by the audience. He was plenty noticed by the many white-coated chefs at the event, however, who flocked to him for photographs and autographs.

André Soltner -- the legendary French chef of New York's Lutéce and the sort of pro they call a chef's chef -- provided commentary for the Food Network film crew. He had appeared at the festival earlier, holding his own cooking demonstration, plus an exclusive lunch and dinner.

When his career began 54 years ago in France, Soltner said, there was no such thing as a celebrity chef. "The chefs were hidden in the kitchen. Now the chefs are stars, and that's good."

The attention showcases the industry without taking away from restaurant quality, which remains the real work of chefs, he said.

It's just promotion -- "after all, we are in America, you know." Once it's over, "they go back in the kitchen and do the serious stuff."

Soltner motioned toward the crowd. "Look at all the people here for food," he said. "It could only be good for the food industry."



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