BETTY SHIMABUKURO / BETTY@STARBULLETIN.COM James Babian, executive chef of the Orchid at Mauna Lani, took a sniff of a yellow tomato entry at Saturday's Tomato Tasting.

Judging the isles’
tastiest tomatoes

Iron chef: Masaharu Morimoto
Chef's chef lends taste to the setting

---

By Betty Shimabukuro
betty@starbulletin.com

WAIMEA, Hawaii >> After the 13th tomato, you start to worry about the effects of acid on tooth enamel. After the 19th, your tongue starts wishing you were somewhere else. But then comes that truly great tomato, with sweetness and good texture. And you realize you can tell the difference -- just like they said you would.

BETTY SHIMABUKURO / BETTY@STARBULLETIN.COM

This is what it's like to sit as judge at Merriman's Tomato Tasting, sponsored by chef Peter Merriman at his restaurant in Waimea.

This year's tasting was held Saturday in connection with the Big Island Festival, as usual to select the best tasting tomato among entrants from throughout the state.

As a novice, I had to borrow expertise, so I turned to the to the judge on my left, chef Sam Choy, who said he is on an eternal quest for a local tomato to match New Jersey tomatoes with their perfect balance of sweetness and firm texture.

The judge on the right, James Babian, executive chef at the Orchid at Mauna Lani is looking for sweetness as well, and more. There should be a high ratio of meat to pulp, he said, as the seeds in the pulp carry acidity. The internal meat needs to be as well-ripened as the outside. If it's pale, the sugars haven't fully developed and the tomato will be mealy. And from a restaurant perspective, the tomato needs to be firm enough to slice nicely and look good on the plate.

The judge on his right, Merriman, says that in seven years of hosting this competition, he's learned that it's easy to tell the difference. "When they're right next to each other, it's so apparent."

BETTY SHIMABUKURO / BETTY@STARBULLETIN.COM Chef Sam Choy and granddaughter Samantha, above, studied a plate of tomatoes.

Merriman also noted that the Jersey-level tomato is here, albeit in very limited supply, at Lokelani Farms, the perpetual winner of this contest.

And that beefsteak slicing tomato, grown by Erin Lee and Susan Welch, did take home the prize for best among small farms. But the judges' favorite was the entry from Kawamata Farms, which won the beefsteak category for large farms.

Kawamata tomatoes are grown on 7 acres of hydroponic greenhouses not far from Merriman's. The farm has been growing tomatoes since 1997, after decades growing roses. It produces 20,000 pounds a week, for sale in grocery stores. They are easy to find on Oahu.

Garren Kawamata, grandson of the farm's founder, says the winning tomato was hand-picked, a smaller tomato from an older plant. Older plants spend less energy growing, so they can put more into producing the best fruit, he said. "There's more taste to these tomatoes than other plants in the beginning of the game."

BETTY SHIMABUKURO / BETTY@STARBULLETIN.COM Garren Kawamata examined a tomato cluster at his family's farm.

The tomatoes sold in stores are a mixture of what's ripe on the farm -- from plants of various ages and of the half-dozen varieties the farm grows.

Kawamata says he's still looking for the perfect tomato. "We're still in search of a plant that will produce for 10 months out of the year and is really good tasting and is resistant to the killer diseases that can kill your crop in no time."

Also a big winner Saturday was Jeannie Vanna of North Shore Farms on Oahu, whose yellow cherry and "green lady" tomatoes won the specialty categories.

Merriman said he started the contest to draw attention to local agriculture, but also to give farmers feedback on what chefs need in a tomato.

For him, it all boils down to flavor: "For me it's all taste -- sugar/acid balance. It can't be too sour or too sweet ... I'll put up with a thick skin for flavor anytime."

Click for online
calendars and events.