Bold moves

In this era of high-profile fashion, guys are discovering the joys of jewelry

» Loree Rodkin's bad boy gems

OK, I'm not suggesting a return to disco days, when men wore ropes of gold chain, or that we want to see men bling themselves out with gold in their mouths, but in this era of high-profile fashion, guys are discovering the joys of jewelry.

Call it a natural evolution. After putting on the shirt, pants, jacket and belt, they're likely to ask, "What's next?"

DENIM & DIAMONDS Fashion show and fundraiser for the Dental Samaritans featuring entertainment, jewelry from Phil's Gold & Diamonds, and clothing by Adasa: » Place: Sheraton Waikiki Hanohano Room » Time: 6 p.m. to midnight Saturday » Tickets: $125 » Call: 848-8880

Kai Ohuchi became interested in jewelry inadvertently in college, while accompanying one of his friends during her shopping rounds.

"She really liked Tiffany jewelry, and the more I saw it, the more I liked it, too," he said.

And once he started, there was no turning back. "When I wasn't wearing jewelry I felt naked."

It helped that no one could accuse the rugged tennis pro of being a girly man.

He appreciated Tiffany's silver chains that were big enough and simple enough to suit men as well as women. But as men grow braver, designers such as John Hardy are beginning to accommodate them. Pieces by Hardy will be among the pieces shown during the fundraiser fashion show "Denim & Diamonds" tomorrow night at the Sheraton Waikiki Hanohano Room.

"Tiffany started the unisex jewelry trend, but now (the gender difference) is really distinctive. Pieces designed for men are getting bigger," Ohuchi said. "My fiancee can't even wear my jewelry. When she puts on my bracelet, it weighs her arm down."

He's retained his preference for clean, classic lines, and on any given day is likely to be seen wearing a chunky ID bracelet, small silver hoop earrings and a Paneray watch.

Tom Miske got an early start in jewelry education because his father is a jeweler. Tom grew up listening to his dad talking about the properties of various gemstones and offering advice as to what to look for in selecting them. At 16, Tom has no interest in semiprecious stones, having skipped directly to an appreciation for precious stones, the emerald in particular. He takes a minimalist approach to wearing jewelry, usually opting for a single necklace or bracelet.

Other men would be wise to follow his example. It's one thing to try a few pieces to add a little polish to one's look. It's another to be blindingly trashy.

So go ahead and experiment, but do women a favor and resist the urge to start unbuttoning your shirt, no matter how beautiful that chain is.