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Warmer temp,
great riesling

Weather Alert: It's getting warmer. Whether because of global warming or a normal cycle of temperature fluctuations, the result is an increasing awareness of rising temperatures worldwide.

What does this have to with wine? Well, many normally cool wine-growing regions are experiencing unprecedented growing conditions. One of those areas is Germany, home to the greatest rieslings. The year 2003 provided the driest and warmest conditions since 1540, resulting in some stunningly ripe, beautiful wines.

Riesling is a beguiling wine that can span the range from bone-dry to syrupy sweet. It is also a wine that lends itself naturally to Hawaii Regional Cuisine. I've had the pleasure to try a few that are absolutely off the charts!

It's easy to find 2003 German rieslings that are ripe and sweet, but the true essence of quality is to be found in those that are balanced with a refreshing acidity. Without it, the wine is simply cloying and blowsy.

Helmut Donnhoff is regarded as one of the greatest German winemakers. His 2003s are just another display of his talent. They are a little hard to find, but worth the search. All of his 2003 wines are delicious; even his Estate Riesling, normally the most basic in a winery's lineup, is a stunner. The 2003 Donnhoff Estate Riesling ($25) is bursting with peach, papaya, apricots and white flowers. It is sweet but balanced and has an incredibly intense and long aftertaste of tropical fruits. Donnhoff's wines always have a richness and intensity that go beyond most of his peers.

Another estate offering thrilling 2003s across the board is JJ Christoffel. His wines have tons of fruit with the characteristic minerally edge that comes from great vineyard sites along the Mosel river. The 2003 Christoffel "JJ" Riesling ($25) is immediately gratifying with loads of sweet pears and flowers. This wine is sweet with a lemony and spicy note that adds complexity. The flavors come in waves. I just kept going back to it until it was gone!

If you don't like your Riesling too sweet, you should try the 2003 Muller Catoir Haardter Burgergarten Riesling Kabinett Halbtrocken ($35). Muller Catoir specializes in wines that are trocken (dry) and halbtrocken (half or off-dry). This wine will wow you with its exotic aromas of plumeria, pua kenikeni and lemon blossom. It is has a silky texture and ripe flavors of mango and peaches. This is as elegant as they come.

These white beauties beg to be drunk with hot and spicy foods -- green Malaysian curry on sticky rice or spicy salt-and-pepper shrimp. The sweetness and cut through the heat in these dishes and refresh the palate for the next bite.

They also go well with sushi, especially if you take plenty of wasabi and soy sauce. Riesling balances the saltiness of the soy and, again, the heat of the wasabi. For the same reasons, rieslings complement salty and spicy Chinese recipes such as sweet and sour spareribs.

And don't forget cheese. Riesling with a cheese, paté and fruit platter can make a party even more fun.

As the temperatures go up, chill down some riesling.

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