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By The Glass Lyle Fujioka |
2003 Beaujolais hailed
as ‘powerful, seductive’Several years ago, celebrated winemaker Bart Araujo questioned my interest in the quality of growing conditions in his vineyards. He pointed out that only two people should be concerned about this issue: the winemaker and the vineyard manager who use their skill and hard work to create the very best wines they can produce in a given year.
Bart made a good point, as many great wines are crafted during supposed bad seasons. The real criteria should be what finally makes it into the bottle and past your lips.
Sip it up
The release of this year's Beaujolais Nouveau will be celebrated Nov. 20 at these events:Formaggio: A tasting of three Beaujolais Nouveaus, plus turkey pate and cheeses, 5 to 10 p.m. Cost is $25. Call 739-7719.
Padovani's Restaurant and Wine Bar: Beaujolais Nouveau will be poured from a barrel for $5 per glass; $3 per half-glass. Call 946-3456.
2nd Annual Beaujolais Nouveau Festival: Nuuanu Avenue Block Party, 6:30 to 10 p.m., between Pauahi and Hotel streets. The wine arrives via a procession of Schuman Hummers at 6:50 p.m. Beaujolais Wine Tent will feature Georges Duboeuf and other wines from Beaujolais, with French food from Indigo, Y. Hata, Padovani's and Meritage restaurants. Music by L'Escargot. Cost is $35, party to benefit Honolulu's Weed & Seed Strategy. Call 521-2900.
Then there is Beaujolais Nouveau, the wine that more than any other is almost totally about the vintage during which it is born. Released on the third Thursday each November, this young -- and we mean young -- fresh and fruity wine is bought by wine merchants the world over primarily on the merits of prevailing climatic and growing conditions in Beaujolais.
The process from harvest to store shelves typically lasts just seven to nine weeks, so Beaujolais Nouveau cannot be tasted prior to purchase. Retailers' orders peak or fall on news of the vintage and trust in primarily one man, Georges Duboeuf.
Through tireless effort and promotion, Monsieur Duboeuf has transformed what was once a humble wine made to reward thirsty field hands into a worldwide media event. Indeed for many, Duboeuf is Beaujolais personified and his exuberant, colorfully labeled floral bottles a welcome reminder of the holiday season to come. His opinion on a Beaujolais vintage is gospel.
Less than spectacular vintages are labeled simply "difficult," but Duboeuf remains ever so French, issuing only reserved praise when things go well. It is significant, then, when he proclaims that "the 2003 vintage may turn out to be the greatest vintage of my career," and that Beaujolais Nouveau bottlings will be "full-bodied, delicious, powerful and seductive wines that will bring great excitement to any glass."
Veteran followers of this wine may have a difficult time believing that he is describing Beaujolais Nouveau -- usually a simple, medium- to- light-bodied juicy wine with crushed berry and floral accents.
What happened in 2003? The season got off to a rocky start when spring frosts and hail in the region reduced the number of bunches of grapes per vine by up to 40 percent. But as the season progressed, Beaujolais saw a glorious summer with very hot days and a conspicuous lack of rain, allowing the remaining fruit to be harvested weeks earlier than normal, with an incredible amount of richness and concentration.
Age-worthy Beaujolais Nouveau? We usually recommend enjoying Duboeuf's entry-level offering ($10) within two months, but perhaps his other Beaujolais Nouveau bottlings in 2003, namely Beaujolais Village, Paul Bocuse and Grand Grange (all about $11), which traditionally offer greater structure and complexity, will have the stuffing to improve in your cellar.
And while we're on the subject of stuffing, Beaujolais Nouveau is a fantastic pairing with your Thanksgiving turkey. Lightly chill and let the slurping begin.
Lyle Fujioka owns Fujioka's Wine Merchants and Formaggio in Market City.
This column is a weekly lesson in wine pairing written by a rotating panel of wine professionals. Write to features@starbulletin.com
