By The Glass
IVY NAGAYAMA
Some ‘ugly duckling’
grapes surpass their reputesGrapes such as chardonnay and cabernet sauvignon are known to the wine world as "noble" grape varieties. Chardonnay --a classic white wine grape grown all over the world --is most famous in the Burgundy and Champagne regions in France. Cabernet sauvignon is one of the main grape varieties, along with merlot and cabernet franc, used to create magnificent Bordeaux wines, such as Chateau Lafite-Rothschild or Chateau Margaux.
But there are many other grapes that are unfortunately misunderstood or grossly under-appreciated. These are known as the "ugly ducklings of the wine world."
For example, the grape variety chenin blanc. Because of far too many poorly made California versions, chenin blanc has developed quite an ugly reputation over the years. Few Americans embrace wines produced from this grape -- not even high-quality, world-class versions from other parts of the world such as vouvray (a French version grown in the limestone soils and cool climate of the Loire Valley), or steen (as it is called in South Africa). Not only are these wines potentially tasty and riveting, but they are also incredibly food-friendly. Who can resist such wines with lobster, shellfish or recipes that use lemongrass, kaffir lime or fish sauce?
Another under-rated grape variety is malvasia, frequently used for white-wine blends in Southern France and Italy. Once in awhile you will see malvasia bottled on its own. A real favorite of mine is Malvasia Bianca 2000 ($13), produced by winemaking icon, Randall Grahm of Bonny Doon.
This wine smells as though it would be sweet, but instead is bone dry, very perfumed, with aromas of pears and honeysuckle, but very light on the palate with a distinctive lemon-lime edge that keeps the palate alive between bites. This is one of the first wines I look for to pair with contemporary sushi or when dining at a Chinese restaurant.
For the red wine lover, the grape variety always misunderstood is cabernet franc -- related to the much more popular cabernet sauvignon. This "lesser" grape variety is the main component of many incredibly elegant, sultry, provocative red wines of St. Emilion in the Bordeaux region of France.
These wines are so good, they have inspired some of California's most innovative winemakers -- such as Bryan Babcock (Babcock Fathom 2000, $40), Justin Baldwin (Justification 2000, $45) and Delia Viader (Viader 2000, $90) -- to showcase this grape, with outstanding results.
Bourguiel ($17 to $18) is another cabernet franc-based wine from the Loire Valley. Wines from this area are unique because of the ancient limestone soils and the very cold growing conditions of the valley. This results in wines that are bright, exuberant, amazingly light but alive on the palate, with smokiness, minerality and richness. Great bourguiel has enough weight and character to handle such hearty, flavorful food as foie gras, with the crispness to keep things interesting.
So next time you see a wine that is un-chardonnay or un-cabernet -- one of these "ugly duckling" varieties -- remember, beauty is in the eye of the beholder!
Ivy Nagayama is corporate manager for Sansei Seafood Restaurant & Sushi Bar.
This column is a weekly lesson in wine
pairing written by a rotating panel of wine professionals.
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