GALLERY
On View In The Islands

A woman's silk crepe kimono, decorated with chrysanthemums, was produced in the second quarter of the 20th century.

Dragonfly motif romantic
and fragile

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Star-Bulletin Staff

The dragonfly is a favored motif in Japanese designs. Traditional kimonos depicted the dragonfly as a romantic and fragile creature. Under Western influence, the insect suddenly became so gigantic and bold that they seemed to have bolted out of a science fiction movie.

A dragonfly motif adorns a woman's silk kimono produced in the first quarter of the 20th century.

The chrysanthemum, another traditional Japanese motif known for its elegant and delicate form, became equally monstrously huge and robust. Abstract designs and giant hearts overlapping like falling leaves also made unusual fashion statements in the early 20th century.

These daring garments are part of the Honolulu Academy of Arts' rare collection of Japanese textiles from early 20th century. A selection is being shown with "Taisho Chic: Japanese Modernity, Nostalgia and Deco" in the Luce Pavilion Gallery.

Textiles curator Reiko Brandon, who has been collecting the kimonos for several years, said the bold patterns were achieved with complicated techniques that involved dying and stenciling threads before they were woven into silk fabric.

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