The Weekly Eater
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The jeers were flying across the table at Roy's earlier this week, with friend or foe status sealed on the basis of whether one was on the side of the Patriots or the Rams. The only way to be more unpopular than someone choosing the opposing team was to have no allegiance at all on this most American of occasions, Super Bowl Sunday. (Aye!) Sports-themed restaurant
doesn’t overlook the foodNot being much of a sports fan, I continued to think of restaurants, and what could be more appropriate this month than to slide one's okole into the leather sports-themed booths at All Star Hawaii?
There's a lot happening at this restaurant this month, just as the Winter Olympics is set to begin. Settle back to watch the slalom, speeding bobsleds and soaring snowboards on the restaurant's big screens while cozying up to a warm bowl of bouillabaisse dubbed "Rabbit Island Seafood." It is the best of the dishes introduced by new executive chef James Palmer.
I would not drop into All Star otherwise because I don't find the noise of the ballgames appetizing, but I had to check out the possibilities afforded by a Jamaican chef with a handful of Jamaican offerings to spice up the basic all-American menu.
Palmer, being open-minded and having left Kingston, Jamaica, 27 years ago, has adapted his recipes to accommodate American tastes, and while that may be necessary for business to prosper, I cling to the hope that someday, art will win over commerce.
YO! WE'RE TALKING SPORTS THEME RESTAURANT HERE!
OK, so I'll quit dreaming in public.
Palmer's basic jerk recipe is absolutely perfect, an aromatic, penetrating purée of herbs, spices and fiery peppers rubbed onto chicken ($12.95) or lamb ($20.95, evenings only). This is accompanied by wonderful fried plantains and red beans and rice made Jamaican style, with a touch of coconut.
But here is where we spoil it. Consumer tastes have driven him to bury his soulful jerk blend beneath an extraneous glistening coat of sweet honey glaze.
Luckily, at All Star they're willing to accommodate individual tastes. If you prefer dining in the open air to being surrounded by big-screen jocks, they'll gladly bring your meal downstairs. If you don't want that honey glaze on your chicken or garlic guava glaze on your lamb, it's outta there!
Palmer understands completely.
"When I came (to this country), in every restaurant the first thing they would ask for was that green mint jelly that comes out of a can. I couldn't stand serving that green jelly with jerk, but that's what they wanted. I started making my own fresh sauces."
Then there's the matter of the conch (call it "konk" when you order it, $10.95). The fresh stuff as found in the Caribbean is better than abalone, better than lobster. It's best eaten raw like sashimi, although it's also popular in the Bahamas in fritter form. Here, it's drizzled with a spicy honey mustard sauce that can't disguise the fact the conch is out of its element.
But as I said before, you must try the Rabbit Island Seafood ($23.50).
"Everywhere I go, I like to create stuff. I like to bring the local into the picture. The first thing I did when I came here was look around, and I saw Chinaman's Hat and Rabbit Island, and I knew there was good seafood here.
"The names of everything I don't understand, but I like going out and seeing what is here first."
In the dish, lobster, shrimp, fish, mussels and clams are sautéed with herbs, garlic, chopped tomatoes, white wine and a touch of butter. The broth is colored a sunny yellow, not with saffron, but annatto.
After getting his bearings since arriving here last fall, Palmer is ready to roll, beginning with a Valentine's Day prix fixe dinner that will include an appetizer, choice of entree and dessert, prepared in view of guests. The event, though on a Thursday night, will start All Star Hawaii's "Friday Night Live" series of downstairs cafe prix fixe dinners costing $40 per person, or $55 with wine.
The Valentine's Day menu has not been set, but entree choices might include a grilled tenderloin of beef and portobello with seared fois gras and tamarind wine sauce, or a plantain-crusted filet of mahimahi with grape and orange white-wine sauce. Call ahead and ask if you don't want to disappoint your sweetie.
"Friday Night Live" events will start at 7 p.m. We'll update you later.
King Kalakaua Plaza, 2080 Kalakaua Ave. (validated parking) 955-8326 All Star Hawaii
Food 
Service Ambience Value Hours: 8 a.m. to 10 p.m. Sundays to Thursdays; 8 a.m. to 9 p.m. Fridays and Saturdays
Cost: About $20 to $30 for two for lunch; about $40 to $60 for two for dinner.
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Nadine Kam's restaurant reviews run on Thursdays. Reviews are conducted anonymously and paid for by the Star-Bulletin. Star ratings are based on comparisons of similar restaurants:
To recommend a restaurant, write: The Weekly Eater, P.O. Box 3080, Honolulu, Hawaii 96802. Or send e-mail to nkam@starbulletin.com
excellent; very good, exceeds expectations; average; below average.
