Books for Cooks

Barbara Burke

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"The Cakebread Cellars Napa Valley Cookbook" By Dolores and Jack Cakebread (Ten Speed Press, 2003, $35, hardcover) 1/2

Seasonal dining
from the cellar

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Cakebread Cellars is a family-owned and operated Napa Valley winery that boasts award-winning labels and prestigious culinary events. The winery's annual American Harvest Workshop brings together such renowned chefs as Honolulu's Alan Wong, San Francisco's Bradley Ogden and Mark Miller from Santa Fe, N.M.

Despite all this acclaim, Jack and Dolores Cakebread come across as down-home people who like to say that "at Cakebread Cellars there aren't any strangers, just friends we have yet to meet." At one of their celebrated wine tastings, the Cakebreads surprised guests by serving toasted peanut butter sandwiches with their prize zinfandel. Why? Because this modest fare was the perfect complement to the wine.

The couple's philosophy is that meals should be light, fresh and, overall, quite healthy. This is evidenced in the more than 120 recipes gathered from 30 years of winery house cookery and compiled in "The Cakebread Cellars Napa Valley Cookbook."

Recipes are organized by course and season. A spring menu might consist of Artichoke Leaves with Prawns and Aioli, Moroccan Lamb Sandwich with Yogurt-Mint Sauce, and Strawberry and Rhubarb Galette. During the hot summer months, cool yourself off with a Watermelon and Pickled Red Onion Salad with Mint and Feta, or a Fennel-Crusted Ahi with Garden Herb Salad.

Heartier fall and winter fare includes Butternut Squash Soup with Sherry and Almonds, Italian-Style Pot Roast and Apple Cranberry Crisp.

Most recipes can be made without shopping at a specialty store, although a list of California purveyors is provided if you want to seek out an artisan cheese or wine varietal vinegar. Nearly every dish includes a wine recommendation.

In this vegetarian recipe, the heat from the pasta gently cooks the egg, resulting in a creamy, rich sauce that coats the pasta and zucchini.

Penne with Zucchini and Basil Sauce

1 pound zucchini, grated
Kosher salt
2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
3 large cloves garlic, chopped
2 eggs, beaten
1/4 cup finely grated Parmigiano-Reggiano
2 tablespoons finely grated Pecorino Romano
2 tablespoons chopped fresh basil
1 pound dried penne
Freshly ground black pepper

Put zucchini in a large colander set over a sink or bowl. Sprinkle with salt and let sit 20 minutes. Squeeze to eliminate excess moisture.

Heat a large skillet over medium heat. Add zucchini, olive oil and garlic. Cook 5 minutes, until softened. Remove from heat and set aside.

In a large stainless steel bowl, combine eggs, cheeses and basil. Set aside.

Cook pasta according to package directions. Drain and add to bowl with eggs. Toss to coat. Add zucchini and toss to combine. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Serves 6.

Recommended wine: Cakebread Cellars Chardonnay Reserve or another rich, full-bodied chardonnay.

Approximate nutritional information per serving (not including added salt): 210 calories, 9 g total fat, 2 g saturated fat, 80 mg cholesterol, 9 g protein, 23 g carbohydrate, 140 mg sodium.

Vintner Dinner Dennis Cakebread, of Cakebread Cellars, hosts a dinner with wine pairings When: 7 tonight Place: Azul restaurant, Ihilani Resort and Spa Cost: $98 Call: 679-0079

Rating Scale: Best in its class / Highly recommended / Recommended / Not recommended

Barbara Burke is a Hawaii-Pacific University instructor who teaches and writes about food and nutrition. Contact her at the Honolulu Star-Bulletin, 7 Waterfront Plaza, Suite 210, Honolulu 96813; or e-mail her at: features@starbulletin.com