Another veteran night-lifer commented recently that many places that serve alcohol also serve food, but a lot of what is served isn't stuff you'd actually go out of your way to eat.

In other words, you eat it because it's there.

If that's the rule around town these days, then Oceans 808 is a welcome exception. It might sound strange to suggest going there for dinner before a concert or night on the town, but the menu and service here make it a restaurant-grade experience.

Although almost everything on the menu is half-price during happy hour, including individual sushi pieces, they're not serving bargain-basement food. The Pulehu Steak—spicy, succulent and served with a hearty ball of rice for $7—is an inviting place to start. Chicken Katsu ($4 with rice and tonkatsu sauce) is a guilty pleasure for most of us in these days of counting calories but also a good choice when multiple alcoholic beverages are on the schedule. Other happy-hour items include soybeans ($3), three varieties of steak fries ($3), calamari ($6) and crab dip ($7).

Arrive early enough—say, before 5:30 p.m.—and there is free food as well. Those items change on a daily basis, but anticipate at least one “;heavy pupus”; selection.

There are also specials you can ask for if they're not listed on the menu. The Poke Martini ($12) is salmon, ahi and hamachi served in a classic martini class with a wasabi lemon drop sauce—and a generous shot of vodka on the side. There's more than enough poke in the glass to share; additional shot glasses of vodka are $3 each.

Chef Daniel Park also excels with his version of Fish and Chips ($7)—fish deep-fried in batter and served with thick slices of potato. If fish can ever be described as “;melt in your mouth,”; this is it.

”;Pau Hana Patrol”; is a weekly look at Honolulu bar and restaurant happy hours. E-mail happy-hour tips to .(JavaScript must be enabled to view this email address).