Think of gazpacho and it's likely that something red and cold will come to mind, laden with the flavors of tomato and garlic. It was not always so.

Food lore describes the original version of this Andalusian Spanish soup as bread, water and olive oil, pounded until smooth. It was kept as cool as possible in those pre-refrigeration days and served to laborers to refresh them during the hot summer season. When tomatoes entered the diet, they became part of the brew.

These days, a typical recipe includes cucumbers and/or bell peppers, along with tomatoes and a good amount of garlic. It's really as much salad as soup. Some traditionalists still pound out the ingredients, but the modern blender provides a short cut for most people, and refrigerators make sure the soup is nice and chilly.

Gazpacho is not always red, though. There's a classic green version made with greens such as spinach and lettuce, often flavored with parsley and mint. And there's a white version that can be made with white bread, with sour cream or ground almonds providing creaminess.

I explain all this to prime you for chef Jason Peel's version of the cold summer soup. Laurie Nakakura wrote for the formula: “;I'm hoping you can help me get the recipe for the Watermelon-Tomato Gazpacho from Roy's in Waikiki. I had it a few weeks ago, and it was amazing!”;

Peel says he developed the dish for some guests who asked for a vegan meal and now includes it as part of a vegan fixed-price menu.

He notes that this recipe is an approximation and that he makes adjustments based on the quality and sweetness of the tomatoes and watermelon. Sometimes, for example, he'll add a little honey. “;I do it 'to taste' every time, according to the flavors of the ingredients.”;

He suggests serving the soup with thinly sliced vegetables — “;Whatever your heart desires, just slice as thin as possible and soak in an ice bath to crisp them up.”; At Roy's they'll often use blanched hearts of palm and a puree of blanched basil and spinach. Peel says he'll stack about 1/4 cup of the vegetables in each bowl, then the server will ladle the soup over them at the table. He calls it a “;salad in a soup.”;

WATERMELON-TOMATO GAZPACHO

1 cup watermelon, seeds removed
2 large vine-ripened tomatoes, seeds removed
1/2 cup Maui onion
1/2 cup cucumber, seeded and peeled
1/4 cup celery, stalk only, no leaves
1 jalapeno, with seeds, or less, to taste
1 large garlic clove
2 tablespoons lemon juice
2 tablespoons red wine vinegar
2 tablespoons olive oil
2 tablespoons soybean oil
Salt and white pepper, to taste

Combine all ingredients except the oils, salt and pepper in a blender. Blend until smooth. Slowly add olive and soybean oils, blending until well combined. Strain and chill well. Taste and season with salt and pepper. Makes about 4 cups.

Approximate nutritional information, per serving (not including salt to taste): 160 calories, 14 g fat, 2 g saturated fat, no cholesterol, 10 mg sodium, 10 g carbohydrate, 2 g fiber, 6 g sugar, 1 g protein

Nutritional analyses by Joannie Dobbs, Ph.D., C.N.S. Send queries to “;By Request,”; Honolulu Star-Bulletin, 7 Waterfront Plaza, Suite 210, Honolulu 96813. Send e-mail to .(JavaScript must be enabled to view this email address).

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Keeping greens fresh

The advantage of buying local is that veggies are cut right before processing and packaging, which means they last longer than those shipped from the mainland. (Mainland produce will spend at least five days on a barge crossing the ocean.)

To keep greens fresh, Dean Okimoto of Nalo Farms recommends refrigerating them in the original container at 36 to 38 degrees. If a bag is opened, store greens in a sealed container with a paper towel to absorb extra moisture.

With the right storage, Nalo greens should keep between two to three weeks, he said.

When shopping at farmers' markets, Okimoto recommends storing purchases in a cooler and getting them into a refrigerator as quickly as possible.