Dean Okimoto, owner of Nalo Farms, thinks of his greens the same way wine growers think of their vineyards.

Because the greens grow in the intense Waimanalo sun, with rainfall a moderate 30 to 40 inches annually, he's convinced that they offer unique flavors found nowhere else in the world.

“;Ours have strong, intense flavors,”; he said.

It all has to do with “;terroir,”; which comes from the French term “;gout de terroir,”; meaning “;taste of the earth,”; which in Hawaii varies from mauka to makai and from isle to isle.

Because of the soil — a combination of volcanic muddy loam rich in minerals mixed with Hawaiian Earth compost — Okimoto believes Nalo greens have zestier flavors when compared with mainland greens.

Wine sommelier Chuck Furuya says identifying Nalo greens in a blind tasting is easy.

“;Because Nalo Farms is at sea level — warm — the greens are firmer,”; he said, “;and much more flavorful and pungent than those grown in the cooler, more moist Kamuela terrain, especially those raised hydroponically.”;

In Waimanalo the average temperature is rarely below 65 to 70 degrees, whereas temperatures in California can hover between 40 and 70 degrees, producing milder flavors.

Richard Ha, owner of Hamakua Springs Country Farms on the slopes of Mauna Kea, says the spring water is what defines the terroir for his hydroponically grown tomatoes.

It is the key to making his cocktail tomatoes flavorful and sweet.

With 130 inches of rainfall a year, plus northeast trades at an elevation of about 1,000 feet, he has an abundance of water. It's never too hot or too cold, he said.

“;The reason we chose this place was because of the water,”; he said.

Up on the cool slopes of Kula, at an elevation of about 1,800 feet, farmer Walter Evonuk grows mint, rosemary, marjoram, chives, purple basil, Russian tarragon and fennel, along with lettuce greens.

The crops are grown in fields nourished with a special sun hemp, which infuses the soil with nitrogen. The results are herbs and greens with a cool and crisp taste.

Back on Oahu, Nalo Farms grows seven types of lettuce, along with microgreens, herbs, nasturtiums (edible flowers), Okinawan spinach, Chioggia beets, and pea and corn sprouts.

Chef Darren Demaya of Kai Market describes Nalo microgreens, which he uses for salads and garnishes, as delicate and light.

“;They're micro but still have the flavor of an adult plant,”; he said.

The Nalo Greens salad mix — the most popular seller in supermarkets — includes green and golden oak leaf, red and green romaine and Little Gem lettuces; lollarossa, redina and arugula; green and red mustard; tat soi; mizuna; tango; curly cress (also called pepperkress); Bull's Blood beet leaves; and Red Russian kale.

It offers a balance of zesty and peppery flavors tempered by softer, milder lettuces. In winter, the mix becomes slightly heavier on herbs with the addition of chervil.

It's easy to bring this mix home, add tomatoes and toss with a vinaigrette for a refreshing salad.

The Nalo Farms arugula, meanwhile, pairs well with steak, according to Okimoto, or as a bedding for fatty fish such as shutome or hamachi.

Then there's the farm's tat soi, which is a good replacement for spinach. A relative of bok choy, it can either be sauteed with a little olive oil, garlic, salt and pepper, or with oyster sauce, a touch of sugar and garlic.

You can also throw it into an omelet with Hamakua mushrooms and cheese.

“;I always tell people, whatever you do with bok choy, do it with tat soi,”; he said. “;I think it has a little more flavor than bok choy, and definitely more nutritional value. It's high in folic acid.”;

Curlycress, which starts out tasting mild but ends with a zing on your tongue, makes a good topping on a tuna sandwich or hamburger, or as an accompaniment to sashimi because it pairs well with shoyu.

Nalo Green herbs can accompany anything — from steak to fish — or be added to a sauce. To achieve the fullest flavor, use about two teaspoons, and rub the leaves to release the oils before mincing and chopping.

For soups and stews, add the herbs during the last 20 minutes of cooking for the best flavor.

The greens are all hand-cut, while a new, $1.8 million processing facility triple-washes and packages them for delivery. The farm's mission is to cut in the morning, deliver in the afternoon and have the greens on the customer's plate the same evening.

DEAN'S GREENS WITH MISO PASSION DRESSING

Dean Okimoto, Nalo Farms

4 ounces Nalo greens or other greens of choice
6 to 8 Ho Farms fiesta tomatoes or other favorite bite-size whole tomato
6 to 8 slices Wailea Ag hearts of palm, or any other brand, cut into bite-size pieces
» Dressing:
2 tablespoons ginger
1/4 cup miso
3/4 cup lilikoi concentrate (or 1 cup fresh Kahuku Farms passion fruit juice)
1-1/2 cup canola oil
1/2 cup vinegar
1/2 cup water
1/8 teaspoon pepper
1/4 teaspoon salt

Clean and drain all veggies and place in a large mixing bowl. Set aside.

In a separate medium-size bowl, mix together dressing ingredients. Pour over veggies, then toss. Serves 4.

Approximate nutritional analysis, per salad serving and 2 tablespoons dressing: 200 calories, 13 g fat, 1 g saturated fat, no cholesterol, 135 mg sodium, 19 g carbohydrate, 2 g fiber, 13 g sugar, 3 g protein