The new Ranch House Restaurant is certainly living up to its moniker and namesake, welcoming all to bring their paniolo-size appetites to the Hee Hing Plaza space - formerly home to Sam Choy's Diamond Head, then Sergio's - with a menu that's heavy on meat and nostalgia.

A couple of decades ago, I would have laughed at the idea of resurrecting the name of a restaurant so firmly attached to the sort of middlebrow, local Americana fare of the 1960s and '70s that typified the image of Hawaii dining that new restaurateurs were working so hard to clear from tables.

The old Ranch House started as M's Restaurant in the 1940s and was sold to Spencecliff Corp. in 1968. Its chuck wagon stood as an Aina Haina landmark until the late 1980s, when it was sold to a Japanese corporation.

By then a younger generation of diners was welcoming new cuisine that was farm fresh, lighter, nuanced, artful in presentation, and flavors that woke the palate with a parade of new, exotic ingredients. We had advanced too far to look back.

But, after a couple of decades of Pacific Rim, well, many diners could use a rest, and are welcoming back home-style classics such as meatloaf, spaghetti with meat sauce and that perennial favorite, shrimp scampi.

And I do believe the owners at Restaurants Hawaii LLC (the same behind Sergio's) have got an instant hint on their hands. Sure, the old name - brought back with the blessing of Chantal Weaver, daughter of the late Spence Weaver, whose empire once encompassed 50 dining establishments - is luring people in for a look-see, but the menu will keep them returning for more.

I have to admit, I have the sort of friends who would not allow themselves to be caught dead in a room decked with saddles and ranch paraphernalia unless it were, indeed, an authentic ranch house. When they ask me how's the food, I have to say, “;It is what it is.”; It's not going to win over salad eaters and the luxe crowd, but for the type of food served, the Ranch House would be considered tops in its category. It's the kind of place where people who would feel uncomfortable dressing up and being on their best behavior could kick back and relax with family or friends, even loosen up their belt after dinner. Trust me, you might need to.

THIS IS the sort of place where it's difficult for a reviewer to sample a lot of dishes without multiple return trips. Basically, one entree and you're stuffed. Even the appetizers are filling, liked pulled pork quesadillas ($9.95) and fall-off-the-bone, bourbon-glazed baby back ribs ($9.95). The tartness of Dijon mustard and sambal allows it to register lighter on the mind, so you feel less guilty about following it with more meat.

Looking at the menu of sides, you'd get the idea it's pricey to eat here, but you probably won't need those extras. Entree plates already come with corn, on or off the cob, and a choice of white rice or mashed potatoes. I tried to order a creamed spinach side, but they'd already taken it off the menu. It's been replaced by sauteed mushrooms ($3.95) awash in garlic and butter.

I was buoyed by the attention paid to the complimentary bread, little French rolls with a baked Parmesan, garlic and salt crust, served nice and warm. Already, the kitchen, led by executive chef Clayton Babas, had gone two steps beyond most restaurants here.

You might want to plan a visit around daily specials such as beef or shrimp curry (Sundays, $14.95), oxtail soup (Tuesdays, $16.95), garlic shrimp (Thursdays, $22.95) and a Hawaiian plate (Fridays, $19.95).

Among the Ranch House's signature entrees are prime rib crusted with Hawaiian alae salt - there's a kane cut (12 ounces at $23.95) or no need to be ashamed to order the wahine cut (8 ounces at $20.95) - and meatloaf of lean ground beef studded with bits of carrots and other vegetables. It's the smooth, rich Hamakua mushroom brown gravy that lifts this meatloaf out of home kitchen territory and into the realm of stellar competition.

If not for my desire to continue fitting in my clothes, I would have eagerly sampled Mongolian braised short ribs ($17.95) boasting flavors of star anise, cinnamon and balsamic vinegar; brine-marinated huli huli-style chicken ($17.95); or beer-braised beef brisket ($18.95). Instead, I scoured the menu for any hint of green, and settled on a slaw-style chopped salad ($11.95) of iceberg and romaine tossed with halved tomatoes, crunchy diced cucumber and pipikaula, in a light buttermilk ranch dressing.

Choices of catch of the day ($22.95) or whole island fish steamed Chinese style (market price) with ginger and cilantro then doused with hot sesame oil and soy sauce, offer reprieve from red meat as well. In this case, curiosity got the best of me, and I had to try the most over-the-top dish possible, Ian's tarragon-crusted fillet of salmon ($20.95). The Pacific salmon is sauteed, then baked in its crunchy tarragon-panko crust, before being blanketed in a thick tarragon beurre blanc. Yeah. The tarragon flavor is on target, but the dish is labored. It would have been fine without the crust.

Desserts range from ice cream-topped brownies to bread pudding. I sought out a bit of fruit, which came in the form of Tutu's Cobbler ($5.95), which this time featured fresh apples.

While finishing up, a boy about 5 or 6 years old came galloping and crying throughout the main dining room and adjoining 50-seat banquet room, making about five passes before his mother caught up to him. Basically, he loved it so much he was refusing to leave. All they need is a few more adults who feel the same way.

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Nadine Kam's restaurant reviews are conducted anonymously and paid for by the Star-Bulletin. E-mail .(JavaScript must be enabled to view this email address).