Of all things Japanese, who would've conceived that a Chinese restaurant is among the most revered venues in the country's culinary realm?

If this news surprises, you have a chance to learn why when grand chef Liang Shu Neng, of Toh-Ka-Lin Restaurant at the Okura Hotel Tokyo, comes to Hoku's kitchen in the Kahala Hotel & Resort.

The restaurant has been serving Cantonese fare for decades, and Liang will present signature dishes a la carte for dinner from Toh-Ka-Lin's more than 200 menu items. Featured dishes include marinated scallops and shrimp with Chinese chives, fruit tomato and onion sauce, sweet-and-sour pork with a twist, and traditional almond jelly.

“;Taste of Toh-Ka-Lin at Hoku's”; will be presented 5:30 to 10 p.m. Sunday through May 16. Call 739-8760 or e-mail .(JavaScript must be enabled to view this email address).

Liang took some time a few days ago to share his thoughts on food and the secret to Toh-Ka-Lin's success:

Question: What is your strongest food memory and your experience growing up and eating? Were you raised in China or Japan?

Answer: I was born in Yokohama's Chinatown in 1940. ... My grandmother always made dim sum, and I knew that when I graduated from school I wanted to enter the world of Chinese cuisine. In 1967 I started on that path, and it has now been 50 years.

Q: Was it difficult to establish an appreciation for Chinese food in Japan? What is the secret to the restaurant's longevity and success?

A: It wasn't that hard. I believe that creating something delicious is universal, and I am confident that by making delicious food, offering great service and giving your utmost effort, you will find success.

Q: Is the 200-item menu true to classic Cantonese dishes, or is it tailored to Japanese palates? What makes the cuisine at Toh-Ka-Lin distinctive?

A: For Toh-Ka-Lin's opening we invited about 10 chefs from Hong Kong, and I learned many of the techniques for this authentic Cantonese restaurant. Toh-Ka-Lin is a very popular Chinese restaurant in Japan.

Fundamentally, Toh-Ka-Lin's dishes are true to their roots, but the arrangement of the final product may be different.

Cuisine is always progressing and we are constantly researching. In addition to Chinese food, we study Western food and Japanese food by trying the food at various restaurants and observing their movements in the markets.

By having an extensive list of items, we give the customer many options, and repeat customers can always enjoy something new from Toh-Ka-Lin's menu.

Q: How did you decide what menu items to present in Hawaii?

A: We decided to prepare menu items that are very popular in Japan, such as our sweet-and-sour pork and chili shrimp. As Hawaii has a warm climate, we chose items that have acidity or a salty taste, which have an appetite-increasing effect.