Jewel of the Desert
POSTED: Sunday, January 18, 2009
The pyramids of Egypt are among the Seven Wonders of the World and simply to be in their majestic presence is awe-inspiring. Textbook and film accounts, no matter how engaging, pale in comparison to seeing and experiencing Egypt in person. Photographs do little justice to the Great Pyramid of Giza (completed in 2560 B.C.), an imposing monument at nearly 50 stories high. Add the hot sun, a piercing blue sky, dry desert dust, and the sharp wool tang of a passing camel, and the experience can't get any more real.
Most of Egypt's pyramids and monuments are fairly close to Cairo.
Rather than using buses and taxis, I opted to fly to Luxor and then travel to Aswan by way of the River Nile. My history-book vision of traveling on the River Nile (as it was described in ancient times) was dashed when led aboard The Plaza, a diesel-belching boat, drenched with an unpleasant aroma of stale cigarettes and too much spilled booze.
I'm also fairly certain that the mighty Plaza was listing, or perhaps there were just heavier passengers on the starboard side?
Despite this passing disappointment, I welcomed the easy access from the river to Egypt's famous pyramids and monuments, as well as the opportunity to savor more Egyptian culinary delights, including several different flavorful goat cheeses and mounds of sweet fresh dates.
I find sitting down to a meal to be one of the best things about travel. It allows you to relax, take the weight off your feet and soak up the atmosphere while interacting with locals. Most importantly, it gives you the opportunity to try new and unfamiliar cuisines. I found the food in Egypt surprisingly tasty and affordable, and while I enjoyed dining at some of Cairo's high-end, fashionable European restaurants, I found the Egyptian fare fresh and most pleasing. Grilled chicken and lamb served with whole-wheat pita bread; babaganoush, hummus and tahini sauce; along with salads of tomatoes, onions, mint, coriander and olives comprised meals that filled one's belly without the stuffed, I-need-a-nap feeling.
Another great thing about traveling is that it spurs an interest in learning more about where you are visiting. I found it interesting that at several monuments and archeological sites, scholars of ancient history from various countries (especially those with still lingering ideological differences) are working together side-by-side digging for yet undiscovered treasure. Putting politics aside and working together for a common goal has saved several temples from destruction, including two massive temples at Abu Simbel and the majestic Philae in Aswan, built to honor the goddess Isis.
Along with much of the Middle East and North Africa, Egypt shares a common concern about terrorism. Initially, I found it unnerving to see numerous stern-faced, machine gun-toting guards with their menacing dogs milling about the major tourist sites. But after two weeks of talking with, seeking directions from, and (on one occasion) petting one of those dogs, I found all the guards and Egyptian people in general to be gracious and welcoming. Often, upon learning that I am an American, I was greeted with, “;Welcome to Egypt,”; followed by enthusiastic exclamations of “;Obama!”; along with a display of two thumbs up.
Overall, I found Egypt to be an exceptionally inviting place and one of the safer regions in the Middle East today. I've already added it to my list of must-see-again countries.