StarBulletin.com

Guilt-free deli is veggie good


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POSTED: Sunday, December 28, 2008

It is resolution time for the young. They are the only ones malleable enough to believe change is possible if one commits on one particular day of the year. The rest of us know: a) We are too set in our ways to change, or b) Jan. 1 has no lock on resolve when change can take place at any time one is willing to put in the work.

               

     

 

 

DOWN TO EARTH DELI

        2525 S. King St. / 947-7678

       

Food: HHH

       

Service: HH

       

Ambience: n/a

       

Value: HHH

       

Hours: 7:30 a.m. to 10 p.m. daily

       

Cost: Less than $10 per person per meal

       

       

“;Work”; is the key word. It takes work to lose weight, to change one's diet, to adopt a healthier lifestyle.

Many resolutions revolve around diet, and the trouble is vegetables are difficult compared to meat. Burgers are cheap and plentiful at any fast-food restaurant, or, you can sprinkle salt and pepper on a steak, toss it onto a grill and call it delicious and done in a few minutes. Vegetables require washing, peeling, slicing and dicing before they ever get to the table.

So, what if I told you there is an easy route? It's as simple as making a detour to Down to Earth Deli, which not only does all the hard work for you, but is out to make vegetarianism sexy for straight worlders, with a new global appeal through dishes like red Thai soup, polenta pizzas, spanakopita and eggplant Parmesan.

Based on the changes, the Hawaii-based chain will get national exposure in the January issue of Vegetarian Times magazine, which named it No. 3 on its “;Veg25 hot list of fresh voices, ingenious products and handy resources”; for 2009. For now, though, you can only sample the new dishes at the King and University location.

It seems a little backward to me that a city the size of Honolulu doesn't have more dedicated vegetarian sit-down or raw food restaurants, when clearly, it is a direction more people are willing to consider in light of aging, sustainability and ethical concerns. But in reality, this kind of diet can only be palatable if mainstream diners can be convinced that the food is palatable. I think we've all had experiences with cardboardy seitan or tempeh.

There's no such problem at Down to Earth. The food is satisfying and full of flavor. One good thing about Hawaii's audience is that, with its large Asian population, we already know how to eat tofu, which figures prominently in curries or is baked in different sauces, such as a Korean barbecue sauce with a dash of cayenne.

One other thing needs to be made clear, and that is, just because the foods are described as “;organic”; and “;natural”; with many “;free of genetically engineered (GE) ingredients,”; doesn't mean all selections are healthful. You still have to be cognizant of what you are eating, such as curries made with coconut milk, a natural product that contains saturated fat, calling for moderation. If you learn what's in food, you can also start to make better choices anywhere.

One of the biggest additions has been the expanded menu of smoothies and shakes, increasing from 10 to 60 selections. For those who don't care to ingest any type of animal products, there are milk shakes made with 1 percent milk and ice cream that, though organic, also contains fat. There are no-fat and vegan milk shakes made with soy milk, but you just need to read the menu and be aware of the distinctions.

There's a reason potatoes au gratin tastes so good, when it's not made with soy cheese, but with a mix of cheddar, provolone and mozzarella. Items rotate and new dishes continue to be created, so there's variety to prevent boredom from taking root.

The deli still caters to those on special diets, such as by offering vegan, gluten-free desserts that substitute rice flour for those who can't eat wheat. And for those who enjoy drinking their fruits and veggies, there are several fresh-squeezed creations ($3.69 for 10 ounces, $5.19 for 16 ounces) such as the Real V-8 of organic greens and the Power Workout of organic apples, carrots and bananas with dates, Brazil nuts and pumpkin pie spices.

ITEMS OFF THE salad bar and hot table sell for $8.99 per pound and the most inexpensive route is to pile on the fresh greens and abundant toppings, from red onion and olives, to peas, sprouts, broccoli, mushrooms and sliced cucumbers, and the anti-oxidant boost of shredded beets. Just think, the more processed the food, the higher the cost, so although it may be tempting to scoop out a helping of the spanakopita, chunky potato salad and eggplant Parmesan, it's probably wise to pick one and complement your entree with a salad. Piling on the hot dishes will easily add up to a pound-and-a-half or 2 pounds, and that's a lot considering the optimal meal for human beings is a petite 3 ounces.

The real test is how sated you feel afterward, and one of the things I complain about when opting for vegetarian choices is that I feel like I'm starving two hours later. That invariably leads me to something bad, like snacking on potato chips, a candy bar or chocolate granita.

This was not the case after sampling sweet-tasting rounds of mellow eggplant Parmesan along with a small bowl of Thai red soup of red curry and coconut milk, made willing with large chunks of potato and broccoli, with onions and crunchy water chestnuts.

Deli sandwiches and wraps are made to order and sold separately. I had my doubts about the mock chicken salad wrap ($6.99) just because I don't think foods should masquerade as something they're not. The tofu, wrapped as it is with tomatoes, cucumber, sprouts and lettuce with creamy, tangy Vegenaise in a whole-wheat tortilla, was tastier than I imagined.

There's also no sacrifice of flavor when ordering the Fresh Mex Burrito ($6.99) filled with brown rice and Down to Earth's three-bean chili. It's amazing how they manage a touch of heat without scorching taste buds of those with sensitive palates.

Deli manager John Fogle said customers are most excited about an expanded pizza menu. My favorite is a deep-dish pizza ($4.99 per slice) with a pesto-covered, whole-wheat crust, topped with sun-dried tomato, artichokes and mushrooms.

Sitting upstairs in the dining area, I could peer into the supermarket, where a big sign directs shoppers to omega-3 oils, digestive aids and cleansing and detox formulas. I couldn't help but think these things might become obsolete if people ate at the deli more often.

 

Nadine Kam's restaurant reviews are conducted anonymously and paid for by the Star-Bulletin.