FOOD

Siam Square

408 Lewers St., second floor / 923-5320

I've long been aware of the attitude among small-time Waikiki restaurateurs that they could ignore bad reviews because of their mostly itinerant clientele. There was no consequence when the next jumbo jet brought in the next crop of victims. Now, thousands have the power to go home and write about their good and bad experiences online. It's unfortunate that diners are not as forgiving as in the past, just when these restaurants need them most.

Feeling the way I do about the unknown Waikiki restaurant, I almost didn't go to Siam Square, but friends pressed me to check it out. The restaurant is housed in what I imagine started as a cozy residential walk-up, so the room has homey appeal, tastefully dressed in sunny golden tones and a narrow wraparound balcony for those looking for al fresco dining.

I love Thai coconut curries, so I started with was what I assumed would be a mild green curry like all the others in town. I asked for medium heat, which is translated locally as no heat at all, so I was pleasantly surprised to find their medium on par with what other restaurants deem hot. Wow. I hope they never bow to timid local palates, and perhaps they'll never have to cater to kamaaina alone.

If you like Green Door, you'll find the same depth and intensity of flavors here, though in a different cuisine, of course.

Compared to the richness of the curries, almost any dish would pale, so I was at first unimpressed by a basil stir-fry with pork ($10.99) and Drunkard's Noodles ($10.99 with chicken, beef or pork; $12.99 with seafood). But as I focused on these dishes, I picked up on the blend of oyster, hoisin and chili sauces and garlic stirred in with the ground pork in the former dish. The latter I first perceived as a stodgy noodle dish, but I found these thick pillowy ribbons of Chinese-style funn, stirred with garlic, tofu, basil and chilies, thoroughly addictive. The fried chicken ($8.99), marinated in a blend of black pepper, garlic and onions, with a crisp cornstarch coating, is similarly addictive. Open 11 a.m. to 11 p.m. daily. Costs about $30 to $35 for two.

MUSIC

Start a happy New Year early with 'Ode to Joy'

Celebrate the coming of 2009 with a presentation of Beethoven's Ninth Symphony, the “;Ode to Joy,”; featuring the Honolulu Symphony and Chorus.

At 8 p.m. Saturday at the Blaisdell Concert Hall, the orchestra and chorus, led by conductor Andreas Delfs, will be joined by guest vocalists soprano Lea Woods Friedman, mezzo-soprano Gigi Mitchell-Velasco, tenor Noel Espiritu Velasco and baritone Quinn Kelsey to perform this cornerstone of classical music.

Beethoven's work rejoices in the spirit of brotherhood, and each year inspires people around the world to begin the New Year with faith and hope for the future.

Tickets are $20 to $82. Call 792-2000 or visit www.ticketmaster.com.

Lagrimas and Waitiki to perform at Atherton

While jazz musician Abe Lagrimas Jr. is back home for the holidays, he's been staying a busy man.

He just enjoyed a CD release party with Bop Tribal at Gordon Biersch and will be playing Jan. 3 at downtown's Dragon Upstairs with guest New York saxophonist Jacob Yoffee.

In between these gigs, Lagrimas will be joining his mainland mates in the Pacific exotica band Waitiki for a concert at Hawaii Public Radio's Atherton Performing Arts Studio at 7:30 p.m. Saturday.

Teaming up with bandmate Randy Wong, Lagrimas and the group will showcase covers and originals influenced by the exotica music of the islands, made famous by Martin Denny, Arthur Lyman and Les Baxter.

Tickets are $20, $17.50 HPR members and $10 students with ID. Call 955-8821.

ON STAGE

Enjoy holiday laughs with Howie Mandel

“;Deal? Or No Deal??”; How about a laugh?

Howie Mandel returns to his stand-up roots with a show 7:30 p.m. Friday at the Blaisdell Concert Hall.

Ever since he took on the role of host for the popular TV game show, Mandel's profile has risen dramatically. And he'll be riding his celebrity cachet with a new NBC series called “;Howie Do It”; debuting Jan. 9.

No situation is safe and nothing appears quite as it seems when Mandel takes to the streets and delivers a new take on the classic TV prank a la “;Candid Camera.”;

In the meantime, Mandel's holiday show here is priced at $30, $40 and $55. Call (877) 750-4400 or visit www.ticketmaster.com.