The world of kitchen gadgetry is full of items of dubious usage - items good only to zest lemons, squish garlic, separate eggs, press all the liquid out of a tuna can ... Whether they're worth the drawer space is largely dependent on just how big a role pressed garlic and well-drained tuna play in your life.

In my line of work as this newspaper's chief recipe tester, I've been through a lot of gadgets, many stupid, some indispensable. A few are really worth consideration, now that gift-giving season is upon us.

If you really love someone ......

For best selection of either of these items, try Macy's or Executive Chef.

Standing mixers: I used to think these were an extravagant waste of counter space, until my mother gave me her old, avocado-green Kitchen Aid. This thing makes baking so much easier with its efficient no-hands beating that allows me to fuss with other things while the machine makes perfect dough. It also whips cream magnificently.

This is a gift only for someone who bakes a lot and has plenty of counter space - it's heavy and can't easily be moved. Hamilton Beach and Cuisinart also get good reviews, but KitchenAid leads the market - and makes its mixers in shiny, new-car colors. Prices can go as high as $500 for the KitchenAid Pro line (for serious bread-makers); lower for the Artisan and Classic models. Costco has one for $289. Some online sources go even lower.

Saute pan: Most serious cooks consider a 12-inch straight-sided saute pan to be the most essential of all cookware. Look for sandwiched metal construction, which means a thick aluminum or copper core to best conduct heat and a stainless steel finish that won't react with foods. The All Clad brand is the favorite, costing $200 and up. More affordable is a 12-inch All Clad fry pan, shown here, for half the price.

moderate thoughts

French coffee press: I considered these a fussy restaurant device, until I got one. The principle here is that the paper filter in your standard Mr. Coffee removes the oils that contribute so much flavor to the brew. With a press, the grounds steep directly in the water, then you press on a mess screen that pushes the grinds to the bottom and lets you pour off a clean cup. It's easy to clean and you don't have to buy filters.

A 12-ounce press with metal fixings (Bodum is the standard brand) costs $30 to $40 at Executive Chef or coffee shops such as Coffee Bean and Tea Leaf. Larger presses are also available, as well as less expensive types with plastic fittings.

Screwpull: I may have tried every type of corkscrew invented, and most were extremely frustrating. The Screwpull, though, works like some kind of magical device. Simply stick the screw firmly into the cork, then turn. It takes hardly any pressure at all. No twisting, yanking or pulling. A good gift for someone who opens a few bottles a week; a great gift for someone with weak wrists. Look for them at wine shops, Executive Chef or online sources for $20 to $35. They come in various models; I prefer the travel or pocket versions, as the hole in the handle makes it easy to turn using just one finger.

Stocking stuffers

Spice grinders: A little cinnamon grinder is perfect for adding a touch of spice to coffee, toast, oatmeal or ice cream. Others are available stocked with sea salt or pepper mixes. They're great for the table, or to keep at the office, for those who eat at their desks. Most common brands are McCormick and Drogheria & Alimentari; they sell for $3 to $6 at grocery stores.

Silicone utensils: Their bright colors are particularly festive, but these heatproof cooking tools are extremely handy as well. They won't scratch your non-stick cookware and they're much sturdier than rubber or plastic. You'll find them in spatulas, tongs, pastry brushes and “;spoonulas”; for $3 to $10 at supermarkets, discount stores and kitchen specialty shops. The blade-shaped red one here is my latest find, from Safeway - it scoops out a mixing bowl extremely efficiently.