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POSTED: Friday, November 28, 2008

HANG around a bar long enough, and eventually you'll meet a regular or two who think they hold the secret to business success.

               

     

 

 

J.J. DOLAN'S         Place: 1147 Bethel St.         Hours: 11 a.m. to 2 a.m. daily         Call: 537-4992

“;If I owned this place”; is a common phrase these guys—and they're always guys—use to start impromptu focus groups. What usually follows is a bunch of semidrunk bickering between those with lofty dreams and limited means.

It's entertaining to watch, actually. Mix liquid courage with some out-of-the-box thinking, and you've got a recipe for the random workable idea.

But take a pair of industry veterans with decades of experience and the financial backing necessary to actually make moves, and you cross from the realm of wishful thinking into reality.

  AT J.J. DOLAN'S, the premise is simple: Serve a honest pint and the best pizza in Chinatown.

In a space just mauka of the Hawaii Theatre that used to house a clothing store and cafe, Danny Dolan and co-owner Jay Neibuhr have focused on the basics during the Irish pub's first month of business.

“;We're just a neighborhood bar, and we're all seasoned bar guys,”; said Dolan. “;He's from the good side, I'm from the bad.”;

He's joking, of course.

Neibuhr used to make pizza at nearby Murphy's Bar and Grill, while Dolan served as general manager at O'Toole's Irish Pub before they decided to open their own place up the street. Surprisingly, both establishments have expressed unwavering support for the former employees.

“;We've gotten a lot of support ... (and) Murph has helped us quite a bit,”; Dolan said. “;He's been there for moral support and to ... get things done.”;

After months of planning and building out what Dolan described as “;a shell”; of a space, J.J. Dolan's opened late last month to friends and family before jumping into the First Friday fray a few weeks ago.

Nearly 20 barstools surround the spacious bar that lines the makai side of the room. A second bartop serves as a backup in case of spillover, while also dividing the bar proper from a separate seating area with more tables.

Just two flat screens hang over the bar itself, which limits you to the barstools or tables near the front windows if you want to watch a game. And on nights when acoustic music is featured (or the bartender on duty thinks not enough people are watching), don't expect the volume on the TVs to be loud enough to hear.

Still, J.J. Dolan's is one of a limited number of bars in Honolulu to offer the NFL Network, and bartenders Patrick and Wayne are both friendly enough to turn up the sound a bit if you ask.

  “;WE'RE JUST a neighborhood bar,”; Dolan repeats a few mintues later. “;We're not club guys ... and I'm not going to (tick) off the neighbors.”;

               

     

 

 

J. J. Dolan's www.jjdolans.com

That means no club-style monthlies or letting the college kids in to mingle with those old enough to drink. Other than an occasional live acoustic set and the radio tuned to the local classic rock station, it's all about talking story here.

On one recent weekday, I struck up conversations with two different bar patrons while waiting for a beer. Talk ranged from sports and politics to our favorite radio stations and my love for Pabst Blue Ribbon on draft.

It doesn't seem like much, but I've been to my fair share of establishments where there's a definite rift between newcomers and regular customers. And some bars are favorites because they can accommodate large groups with established social circles.

At J.J. Dolan's, you can walk in by yourself and feel welcome. Lunch crowds are building, and a cross-section of college students and professional-types keep things busy until 8 or 9 p.m. during the week.

On weekends, it remains comfortably crowded until closing time. Last Saturday, a group from nearby Laughtrack Theater kept the party going after their performance, while a couple of stragglers occupied the barstools. I didn't call anyone before showing up, yet I was able to greet a couple of people before I could order a beer.

It's that feeling of recognition, either by fellow customers or the guys behind the bar, that will keep people coming back.

  ANOTHER REASON to be thankful for the quality of service at J.J. Dolan's is because once you've been there a few times, it's clear the simplicity of this bar might also be the biggest drawback.

The pizza is tasty, but at $15 to $17 per 14-inch pie, it's not the most affordable way to go, especially if you're by yourself. Why not offer a simple bar burger or chicken strips and fries for those who want something different?

Still, the Giacomb ($17) and Quattro Formaggio ($17) are my early favorites, and you can build your own pizza with up to four toppings if you're feeling creative. Take-out boxes are available as well.

Another issue is the TV situation. More screens are needed, and locations already exist in the bar for their installation. It would also be nice to see the TVs connected to the in-house sound system to make it easier to hear during games (turning on the closed captioning might help, too).

Despite the minor annoyances, the excitement of watching a bar grow and thrive along with genuine aloha expressed by the majority of employees will keep me returning to J.J. Dolan's. And so far, it looks like I'm not the only one who feels that way.