Probably the best place to discover the delectable properties of fresh soy-bean milk skin is in one of the many restaurants in Kyoto where yuba “;sashimi”; is made at the table: Diners fish the skins off pans of simmering soy milk and slurp them out of a dip of wasabi and soy sauce.

Failing a trip to Japan, you can try replicating the experience at home using fresh, pure soy milk—not the mass-produced kind usually sold to drink. (Mrs. Cheng's brand, found in the refrigerated section, will work.) Heat it slowly in a large pan. After four or five minutes, you should be able to use a chopstick or skewer to lift off a delicate film to slurp immediately; after seven minutes, a sturdier skin forms that can be carved from the sides of the pan with a knife before lifting and laying on a cutting board.

The highest-quality yuba comes from the first few skins; later layers grow more thick and sweet. From this you might guess that yuba, because it concentrates the nutrients found in tofu, makes for a superior source of protein, B vitamins, iron and minerals. Its composition is more than 50 percent protein, 25 percent fat (mostly polyunsaturated), and 12 percent carbohydrate.

  It's no wonder that yuba made the first vegetarian meat substitute, developed probably by Buddhist monks in China some 2,000 years ago. Tofu skins were layered and rolled in tight packages that were steamed and then fried to resemble sausages, drumsticks, and other toothsome fare. Today's highly sophisticated versions rely on molds, into which yuba soaked in flavorful seasonings is pressed, then steamed, fried or braised to create exotic replicas whose origin is betrayed only by names referencing the Buddha, such as Buddha's Duck or Buddha's Chicken.

“;Bean curd skin”; is actually a direct translation of the Chinese doufu pi or doufu yi, although the Japanese term yuba is preferred in the West. The “;ropes”; made of skins rolled and hung to dry are called fu zhu, “;tofu bamboo.”; Yuba is most commonly used in Cantonese cooking and is thus a staple in Chinatown shops, where the dried version is cheap enough—at $1 to $2 per 6-ounce package, enough to feed two to four—to fatten a monk.

Such is not the case in Japan, where yuba costs astronomically more than in China, probably because it originated in Kyoto and has retained its gourmet image. Still made by hand by small producers, yuba is featured in restaurants that specialize in Zen temple cooking, shojin ryori, and the cuisine of aristocrats, kaiseki ryori.

In Hawaii, it's easiest to find packages of the dried ropes in Asian markets—finding sheets will probably require a trip to a Chinatown grocery. They keep indefinitely—though older packages dry out and might be full of crumbs. Be forewarned also that some Chinese producers have been known to use excess hydrogen peroxide or preservatives in production, which can be removed only by boiling. (I have gotten sick from packaged yuba only once over the years, but it was recent.)

  Whatever its shape, soak dried yuba in water for at least an hour, and rinse well. The sheets seem to rehydrate best if wrapped in a wet towel in a baking pan. The sticks can be sliced and added to stir-fry, soup, stew, or any other place where you might use tofu or meat, though the bends in the ropes remain tough and should be cut off.

The sheets or skins offer many more possibilities, especially as substitutes for noodles and wrappers. A typical preparation involves rolling or wrapping stir-fried vegetables and meat, as in an eggroll, maki sushi or gyoza (mandoo). The roll is then steamed for 20 to 30 minutes to marry the flavors, or else pan-fried or deep-fried and sliced as a crunchy appetizer to dip in a spicy or sweet sauce.

For those who love the texture and taste of yuba by itself, the folded sheets can be stacked and bathed in a sauce, or fried on both sides to make a yuba “;omelet.”; Deep-fried chips don't need soaking, but in Japan they are floated in dashi (fish broth) to make juicy pillows, much like croutons in French onion soup.

Western chefs tend to see yuba as a substitute for pasta, and the possibilities here are endless, though it whets the appetite better to match yuba with fresh vegetables and herbs, as in an Asian noodle dish, than with a creamy alfredo.

Green Beans and Tofu Skins with Rice Sticks

Adapted from Mark Bittman, New York Times

4 ounces dried rice-stick noodles, medium thickness, soaked in boiling water and drained
4 ounces yuba sheets, soaked until pliable and cut into wide ribbons (see note)
2 tablespoons vegetable oil
2 tablespoons sesame oil, divided
2 tablespoons minced ginger
Whole dried Thai chilies to taste
1 pound green or wax beans, trimmed and cut into 1-inch pieces
2 tablespoons of soy sauce to taste

Heat vegetable oil and 1 tablespoon sesame oil in a wok over medium-high. Add ginger and chilies, sprinkle with salt and pepper, to taste, and cook 1 minute, until ginger is soft. Add beans and 1/4 cup water and cook until softened but still crisp, 3 to 5 minutes.

Add yuba and another spoonful or two of water. Cook until beans are done, about 2 minutes. Add drained rice noodles, stir until heated through, and drizzle with soy sauce and remaining sesame oil. Serves 2.

Note: Yuba ropes may also be used—soak until soft, slice in 1-to-2-inch pieces and unwrap to make noodle-like ribbons.

Approximate nutritional information, per serving (not including salt to taste):570 calories, 31 g fat, 5 g saturated fat, 0 mg cholesterol, greater than 1,000 mg sodium, 68 g carbohydrate, 7 g fiber, 3 g sugar, 8 g protein.

Steamed Vegetarian Yuba Rolls

Adapted from http://www.geocities.com

1/2 cup dried Chinese mushrooms, soaked in boiling water 20 minutes and sliced thin, liquid reserved
1 cup bamboo shoots, cut into matchsticks
1 cup chives, cut into matchsticks
1 cup carrots, cut into matchsticks
1 teaspoon minced garlic
2 tablespoons minced ginger
2 ounces cellophane noodles, soaked and drained, cut into 3-inch lengths
1 tablespoons soy sauce
2 tablespoons mirin or dry sherry
3 cups spinach, shredded
1/2 cup boiling water
1 package dried yuba sheets
1 teaspoon hot bean paste
1 teaspoon sesame oil, divided

Heat oil in wok and stir-fry the first six ingredients for 2 minutes. Push vegetables aside and add cellophane noodles, soy sauce, mirin and 1/4 cup mushroom soaking liquid. Cook 1 minute. Add spinach and cook until liquid is absorbed. Remove vegetables to a bowl and let cool.

In a small bowl, mix the hot bean paste and 1/2 teaspoon sesame oil.

Place 1 or 2 sheets of yuba on flat surface and spread about 1/4 cup filling over bottom half. Gently fold bottom and sides over filling to form a tight roll.

Brush shallow dish with remaining sesame oil and place rolls on it, seam side down. Steam in wok over high heat 5 to 7 minutes.

Cut rolls into thick slices. Brush with bean paste mixture and serve hot or at room temperature. Serves-4.

Approximate nutritional information, per serving: (based on 4 servings): 160 calories, 3.5 g fat, 1.5 g saturated fat, no cholesterol, 300 mg sodium, 27 g carbohydrate, 3 g fiber, 6 g sugar, 5 g protein

Minced Pork and Prawn Wrapped in Tofu Sheets

“;Everyday Asian”; by Patricia Yeo, Tom Steele, Alex Martinez (2005, St. Martin's Press, $14.95)

2 long sheets dried yuba, soaked and cut in half
Cornstarch or flour, mixed with water to form a very thin paste
Oil for frying
Chili sauce

» Filling:
1/2 cup minced pork
1/2 cup small pieces peeled shrimp
1/4 cup chopped water chestnuts
2 scallions, green part only, chopped
2 tablespoons soy sauce
1 teaspoon Thai fish sauce

Preheat oven to 350.

Combine filling ingredients.

Layer tofu skins on flat surface, spread filling across, leaving the top inch free. Roll up. Seal with cornstarch mixture. Slice roll in half.

Heat oil in skillet and fry rolls until golden brown on all sides, about 10 minutes total.

Transfer to oven for about 5 minutes to cook center. Slice and serve immediately with chili sauce. Serves 4 as an appetizer.

Approximate nutritional information, per serving: 180 calories, 13.5 g fat, 3.5 g saturated fat, 50 mg cholesterol, 850 mg sodium, 4 g carbohydrate, 1 g fiber, 1 g sugar, 12 g protein.

Yuba with Black Bean Sauce

Adapted from thailandtravelandfood.blogspot.com

2 tablespoons peanut oil
1 tablespoon garlic, chopped
1 teaspoon ginger, grated
1 tablespoon fresh red chilies, chopped
1 tablespoon fermented black beans, rinsed to remove excess salt
1 onion, thinly sliced
1 green pepper, thinly sliced
4 to 6 yuba sticks, soaked until soft and cut in 1-inch lengths
2 scallions, thinly sliced
1 teaspoon cornstarch dissolved in 2 teaspoons cold water

» Sauce:
1/2 cup chicken stock
1 tablespoon oyster sauce
1 tablespoon soy sauce
1 teaspoon dark soy sauce
2 tablespoons Shaoxing or dry sherry
1 teaspoon sugar

Combine sauce ingredients; set aside.

Heat oil in a wok and stir-fry garlic, ginger, chilies, and black beans for 30 seconds. Add onion and green pepper and stir-fry 4 to 5 minutes. Add yuba and cook until lightly browned, about 2 minutes. Add scallions and sauce.

Add cornstarch mixture and heat until sauce bubbles and thickens. Serves 4.

Approximate nutritional information, per serving: 120 calories, 8 total fat, 2 g saturated fat, no cholesterol, 500 mg sodium, 10 g carbohydrate, 2 g fiber, 4 g sugar, 3 g protein.

Nutritional analyses by Joannie Dobbs, Ph.D., C.N.S.