When people dine on regional cuisine, they want more than food. They want a story. They want to discover something. The plate lunch, for instance, is “;a symbol of the courage and acceptance of different people in Hawaii displayed on a plate,”; according to Rachel Laudan, who said that the decade she spent in Hawaii taught her more about food than any other place she has lived. And she's resided on five continents.

The author of “;The Food of Paradise: Exploring Hawaii's Culinary Heritage”; (University of Hawaii Press, 1996), Laudan is not a chef but a historian who taught food history at the University of Hawaii until she moved to Mexico in 1998. She visited Honolulu last weekend for Les Dames d'Escoffier International's convention; her talk Monday for culinary students and professionals at Kapiolani Community College was open to the public.

Yet another cooking demonstration was not on the menu. Instead, organizers hoped to stimulate a thought-provoking discussion following their successful gathering of 150 members of Les Dames, an organization of women leaders in the food industry throughout the United States and Canada.

In a wide-ranging seminar, Laudan covered the history of French provincial cuisine (she defines cuisine as “;style of cooking”; rather than high-end fare), and compared it with the evolution of the Hawaii tourist luau in the 20th century.

The analysis covered how the automobile changed regional food in France. When wealthy Parisians began to own cars, they wanted to tour the countryside, and, of course, dine along the way on something vaguely familiar—not shocking to the palate—yet unique. In short, they wanted an adventure.

When the peasants saw a business opportunity, their own basic food choices changed by necessity. Beans evolved into cassoulet with duck confit, pork, bacon and bread crumbs, for instance. Potatoes adopted the au gratin flair. City folks discovered Camembert cheese. Business for farmers and regional vintners blossomed. An industry producing French rural furniture and hand-painted pottery on which to eat these meals also grew. Servers' costumes helped define country eateries. Marketing flourished with local guides and maps promoting new restaurants and country chateaus.

Jump across the globe to an island in the Pacific, substitute Matson Lines, pineapple, mangoes, local fish, wooden bowls and grass skirts, and the historical pattern becomes clear.

A casual observer might consider the correlation remote at best. But Laudan wants the next generation of chefs “;to see the connection between Hawaii and the bigger world”; in a way that opens up perspectives and helps everyone realize they “;don't have to reinvent the wheel.”;

Chef Alan Wong, a member of the audience, believes that regional cuisine is constantly evolving. “;We don't exactly do a plate lunch,”; Wong said of his upscale restaurants. “;But we use the ingredients, and we need to continue to look at ethnic influences and what farmers give us.”; Though one person in the audience noted that many locals don't relate to the concept of regional cuisine because they cook very differently at home, Wong thinks there is more overlap than people realize. “;If you sear an ahi at home, you learned that somewhere.”;

Indeed, people in a region must feel ownership of the cuisine for travelers to embrace it. “;When people visit, you want them to taste Hawaii,”; added Wong. And according to Laudan, food is only the beginning.