Chuck Boerner and his wife, Lilly, owners of Ono Organic Farms, were living green long before it became the watchword of environmentalists worldwide.

Founded 35 years ago, their 259-acre farm in Kipahulu, on the southeastern slopes of Haleakala Volcano, is off the power grid. They use propane and solar energy, draw water from a spring, recycle bottles and cans, and make compost from grass clippings, wood chips and manure.

Four generations of Boerner's family have farmed in this remote area of Maui, starting with his paternal grandfather, Heinrich, who owned and operated a 60-room hotel in upstate New York before moving to Hawaii.

When Heinrich turned 60 in 1940, he underwent a major lifestyle change, giving up cigarettes, meat and alcohol virtually overnight.

His son, Charles, Boerner's dad, moved to Oahu the following year to become the engineer for the 20 underground tanks at Red Hill that were built to store fuel for battleships moored at Pearl Harbor. Beautiful Hawaii, he thought, would be the ideal home for his health-conscious dad. “;The air is fresh and clean here,”; Charles told his father. “;This is a great place for you to start a little farm, to grow your own fruits and vegetables.”;

So Heinrich sold his hotel and most of his possessions, drove to the West Coast, bought passage on a boat and arrived in Hawaii a week after Boerner was born on Oct. 22, 1945.

He spent the next four days pondering where he could cultivate his dream parcel. Many people suggested Kauai, where rainfall was abundant and land was affordable.

Kauai it would be, Heinrich decided. At Honolulu Airport he waited patiently to buy a ticket for a flight to the Garden Island, but when he finally got to the counter, the airline agent told him, “;I'm sorry, I'm selling tickets for Maui. The line for Kauai is over there.”;

Not wanting to endure another long wait, Heinrich flew to Maui. Three days later he purchased 10 acres in Hana, a mile from Hamoa Beach. Within a month his wife had joined him and they were tilling the earth and living in a house powered by generators.

“;My grandfather was always experimenting with different plants and trees,”; said Boerner. “;When I was a kid, I would stay with them at Christmas and other holidays, and for a few months during the summer. Those were wonderful times!”;

Although Boerner holds bachelor's degrees in civil engineering and industrial economics, he chose to walk the same rural path as his grandparents.

“;Ono Organic Farms started with our family growing what we liked to eat and selling the surplus,”; said Boerner, who founded the Hawaii Organic Farmers Association 10 years ago and served as its first president. “;We now grow 75 different crops, primarily fruits, without any chemical fertilizers, herbicides or pesticides.”;

Among the farm's clients are hotels, restaurants, supermarkets and health food stores on Maui and Oahu, including Star Market, Down to Earth, Hula Grill, Alan Wong's, Hyatt Regency Maui and the Ritz-Carlton, Kapalua. The farm also delivers boxes of fruit to homes throughout Maui twice a week, and provides mail-order service to the other islands.

In 2001, legendary chef Wolfgang Puck came to Maui to open Spago at the Four Seasons Resort Maui at Wailea. His itinerary included a visit to Ono Organic Farms, where he filmed a video for the Food Network.

“;He cut a palm tree to harvest heart of palm,”; said Boerner. “;He took a big chunk of it and started eating it like a carrot!”;

That same year, the Boerners launched a 90-minute guided tour of the farm, which Lilly usually leads. It begins with a sampling of 15 to 20 types of fruit in season that, said Boerner, shows visitors “;why we named our farm 'ono,' the Hawaiian word for delicious. They taste papaya, banana and other familiar fruits, along with exotic species like lychee, jackfruit, jaboticaba and durian.”;

As they eat, Lilly talks about the history of the farm, which is family owned and operated. From mowing grass to putting stickers on harvested fruit, the Boerners' five children helped with chores from the time they were young. Boerner's 98-year-old mother still sells fruit, coffee, jams and jellies at the open market in nearby Hana town on Thursday afternoons.

Tour-goers also discover the reason behind the farm's haphazard method of planting. “;We don't have organized fields; everything is mixed up,”; said Boerner. “;Papayas grow beside bananas, avocados beside soursop. We do that to ensure that a diverse group of microorganisms enriches the soil. People need to eat different foods to keep healthy. Fruit trees need diversity for the same reason.”;

As participants stroll through the orchards, they can pluck guavas, Surinam cherries and other fruit off the branches. Lilly points out the cacao tree and explains how chocolate is made. She also describes how coffee is processed, from ripe red “;cherries”; to roasted beans that make a fragrant brew.

Tours are held on Mondays and Thursdays — harvest days — so workers can be seen driving tractors, hand-picking fruit and packing them for shipping.

“;Visitors get a firsthand look at all the action on a working farm,”; said Boerner. He offers consulting services on organic farming, composting and soil and water testing to everyone from big commercial farmers to families who want to start a garden in their back yards.

“;Anyone can farm if they've got the time, knowledge and suitable land,”; said Boerner. “;It's hard work but so rewarding! It's amazing how much better food tastes when you've grown it yourself — and don't let anyone tell you that money doesn't grow on trees!”;