While Oahu's North Shore is most famous for its big surf, the stretch of Kamehameha Highway that winds through historic Haleiwa town is big on charm, too.

The town was settled in the 1830s by Christian missionaries; however, it got its name when real estate and railroad magnate Benjamin J. Dillingham built a hotel at the end of the 19th century and named it Haleiwa Hotel for the many iwa birds in the region.

The hotel has long been gone, but Haleiwa town is still teeming with visitors, surfers, artists and the many entrepreneurs whose quaint restaurants, art galleries and retail shops bring people to Oahu's North Shore regardless of the surfing forecast.

Liliuokalani Protestant Church

66-090 Kamehameha Highway

On a grassy plot across from busy Haleiwa town's famous shave ice joints, the historic Liliuokalani Protestant Church still provides respite of another sort.

The church, which celebrated its 175th anniversary last year, was founded in 1832 by missionaries John S. Emerson and his bride, Ursula Sophia Newell Emerson. Among the congregation's famous worshipers was Queen Liliuokalani, who attended the church when she visited her country home on the banks of the Anahulu River.

Hawaii's famous last queen bestowed her favor on the church in 1892 with the gift of a custom-made clock. The queen replaced the numerals on the clock dial with the letters L-I-L-I-U-O-K-A-L-A-N-I.

When it first opened, the church was a grass shack. It was rebuilt in adobe and in wood before the fourth and present church was built of concrete in 1961. In addition to the church, a historic cemetery graces the grounds, which are surrounded by beautiful lava rock walls. The Emerson family is buried in the cemetery.

North Shore Marketplace

66-250 Kamehameha Highway

Some people come to the North Shore to catch waves; others prefer to ride a jolt of caffeine or cruise the height of fashion.

The North Shore Marketplace, the largest open-air shopping plaza on the North Shore, satisfies all types. It's an eclectic mix of build-your-own bikinis, retail shops, arts and crafts, food and beverage places, and there's even a surfing museum. Of all the marketplace shops, the Coffee Gallery is perhaps most representative of the region's full-bodied flavor. The shop, which opened in 1987, was the brainchild of owner Rene Dominguez, who patterned it after the California coffeehouses that he remembered from his student days. Come 6:30 a.m., there's usually a line of people waiting for their morning fix. Some are quickly out the door, but others linger at Dominguez's screened-porch enclave to talk about their day, surf the Internet or pick a selection from the community book exchange.

Other energy enthusiasts will enjoy a visit to the North Shore Surf and Cultural Museum, which opened in 1999 on the 100th anniversary of Haleiwa town. The museum houses the first snowboard, the first motorized surfboard, old hollow wooden boards and other antique or notable surfing paraphernalia. Still, it's the chance to talk story with illustrious North Shore surfer “;Hurricane Bob”; Brown that makes the trip. Brown, a dedicated surfer turned museum curator, recently won the Hawaiian Amateur Longboard Surfing Championship in the 66-years-and-up category. However, that's nothing compared to the days he spent as a hurricane hunter, penetrating the eye of the storm for the U.S. Air Force.

“;It was an inherently dangerous job,”; Brown said. “;Between that and surfing, I kind of think that I've pushed it as far as I could.”;

The museum is open most afternoons.

Anahulu Stream Bridge

Yes, even quaint little Haleiwa town is developed enough to have a set of those familiar McDonald's golden arches; however, the more famous arches on the North Shore belong to the landmark Anahulu Stream Bridge.

Sometimes known as the Rainbow Bridge for its two concrete arches that stretch across the water, the Anahulu Stream Bridge has been a focal point along the stretch of Kamehameha Highway that runs through Haleiwa town for nearly 87 years. The bridge, which spans Anahulu Stream, is the gateway into the picturesque little frontier town and has become a favorite of artists and photographers alike. It was even featured in the hit 2002 movie “;Blue Crush,”; an action romance about a surfer girl who falls for a professional football player.

Listed on the Historic Bridges of the U.S. Web site, Anahulu Stream Bridge is 161.1 feet long by 17.7 feet wide. The bridge is 80.1 feet long at its largest span and its vertical clearance above deck is 16.7 feet, according to the site.

Built in 1921, the bridge got a $3 million facelift in 2006. The rehabilitation project took the City and County of Honolulu 17 months.

Haleiwa Joe's Seafood Grill

66-011 Kamehameha Highway
» (808) 637-8005
» www.haleiwajoes.com

When it comes to Haleiwa Joe's, a popular North Shore hangout and eatery since 1988, it's all about location, location, location.

The first restaurant after the famous Anahulu Stream Bridge, Haleiwa Joe's offers up some of the finest North Shore waterfront views along with its fresh catch.

“;Our location is phenomenal. You can't get through Haleiwa without driving right by us,”; said Chris Pirrone, Haleiwa Joe's operations manager.

The location is so picturesque that in the past it attracted many other entrepreneurs, including famed real estate and railroad magnate Benjamin Dillingham. In 1898, Dillingham opened a hotel called Haleiwa, or House of the Iwa, for the birds that frequented the region. The hotel was built on the site where Haleiwa Joe's stands today, according to the North Shore Chamber of Commerce.

In more modern times, Dillingham's hotel was replaced with a circa 1970s-style hotel, called the Sea View Inn. After that modest hotel closed, the Chart House took over the spot but eventually gave way to Haleiwa Joe's.

Aoki's Shave Ice

66-117 Kamehameha Highway
» Hours: Open seven days a week from 11 a.m. to 6:30 p.m., give or take a few minutes.

While tourist lines wind out of the more famous Matsumoto's Shave Ice in downtown Haleiwa town, to kamaaina, Aoki's Shave Ice is just as synonymous with this sweet treat.

Owners Michael Aoki and his daughter, Cathy, are descendants of the Shimada family, who began serving up shave ice in Haleiwa in the 1930s. The family first operated out of a concession stand at the old Haleiwa Theater. In 1981, Sumie and her son, Michael Aoki, turned her sewing studio into a dedicated shave ice shop. When they established their shave ice operation, the family expanded their efforts to include a mom and pop store to cater to tourists' needs and local tastes.

Today, Cathy, who is the fourth generation of her family to serve up shave ice, is the master flavor maker. In the mornings, she mixes up fresh batches of rainbow-colored syrups. Just like in the old days, no store-bought or mass-produced syrups are used.

On a busy day, the Aokis will serve more than 600 shave ice cones a day using an estimated 400 pounds of ice.