What do you see as the most significant food trend of the past 20 years?

The No. 1 biggest thing is the ever-growing enlightenment of the American diner, which means we can have much more sophisticated food and wine lists than we did 20 years ago. Another trend is that different cuts of meat, like short ribs, flat iron, hangar steak and cheeks are now popular - they were unusual in fine dining just 10 years ago. It's an opportunity to show our skills as a cook versus just grilling a steak.

Celebration

Beginning Dec. 1, 20 charities will be the beneficiaries of 20 days of proceeds from Merriman's, Waimea. The 20th event will be for the Merriman's Culinary Scholarship fund.

  Have you seen some really bad examples of fusion?

I really don't dig ginger with pasta!

What are your signature dishes?

Wok-Charred Ahi is No. 1; also Ponzu Mahimahi and Coconut Creme Brulee.

Is there a dish you wish you could take back?

In the early days of Merriman's I couldn't afford a pastry chef so I'd be finishing desserts at 6:30 p.m. I used to do a mango cream pie that needed time to set up. There were a few that I sent out that were far less than perfect!

How has your style changed?

Twenty years ago we catered to the market; as we gained strength, I cook to my own personal taste. My style now is minimalist; no complex ingredients and relying on the natural flavors of ingredients.

Did you plan on having more than one restaurant?

Absolutely not. I didn't even want it to happen. I got into cooking because I loved to cook. I stumbled into being a chef, stumbled into opening my own place. I did it to do the food that I wanted to do. I remember talking to Roy (Yamaguchi) who said, “;Someday I'd like to have 10 restaurants”; and I said “;Man, you're nuts!”;

Your toughest decision?

It's the multiple personnel decisions. Often, you have to make a tough call on people even though you care about them.

What are the toughest problems you continue to face?

It's my own weakness that's taken me awhile to overcome - picking the right locations for my restaurants. Bamboo Bistro at Maalaea Harbor was not good; Merriman's in Waimea is in the wrong location but it's made it.

Would you do it again?

Yes, I would, but not to make money. I feel fortunate because I feel I've played a part in helping Hawaii grow; I don't think I could have done it in another industry. I never thought I'd make it this far.

It costs me 13 times as much to build a restaurant than it did 20 years ago. I'm not charging that much more for a steak. It's been a great run and I feel fortunate I've been able to do it.

How is the green movement affecting your business?

We've been doing business in a sustainable way for 20 years ... We're now bottling our own water - we bought a reverse-osmosis filter, we use old milk bottles that we wash and fill. No carbon footprint, we're not filling up the landfill. We've been recycling and reusing since Day 1.

What's in your crystal ball?

I think if the economy stays bad for a long time, it will be a good thing for cuisine in Hawaii. We do our best work under duress. When HRC started on the Big Island, we were in an economic downturn. Hopefully more locally grown products will be available and we'll cross with other sustainability initiatives. I'd like to see the restaurant industry contribute to feeding ourselves.