Jewel on the Coast

The California community attracts visitors with its blend of luxury and affordability

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The origin of the name La Jolla is shrouded in controversy. Perhaps it comes from the La Jolla band of the Luiseno tribe of American Indians who once inhabited the area. Or maybe "woholle," the American Indian word for "hole in the mountain," an apt description of the area's cliffs. Others say the coastal community derives its title from seafarers shouting "Ahoy!" Upon visiting La Jolla today, however, visitors can easily see why the place might have garnered its name from the Spanish term for jewel, "joya."

From its upscale eating establishments to its tony boutiques selling real (and pricey) joyas, La Jolla ensconces a lifestyle of luxury. Indeed, houses here sold for a median of $2.4 million in the first quarter of last year. Visiting La Jolla, however, is much more affordable, and many travelers drive here on an easy day trip from San Diego. While establishments like the Lodge at Torrey Pines fit the resort image, other attractions such as the Birch Aquarium, Museum of Contemporary Art, University of California at San Diego, and Torrey Pines State Reserve and Beach each offer different and distinct perspectives.

MONICA QUOCK CHAN / SPECIAL TO THE STAR-BULLETIN

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Downtown La Jolla is the heart of the community, and the atmosphere is best absorbed by a casual stroll. At the northern end of Coast Boulevard is Sunny Jim Cave, whose entrance is located in a souvenir shop.

IF YOU GO ... Costs are subject to change: Getting there » A round-trip economy ticket from Hawaii to San Diego International Airport costs approximately $400. La Jolla is 13 miles or a 25-minute drive north of San Diego on the I-5. Where to stay » Hilton La Jolla/Torrey Pines: Upscale accommodations adjacent to the Torrey Pines Golf Course. Room rates start at $169. At 10950 N. Torrey Pines Road, La Jolla, CA 92037. Call (858) 558-1500; www.hilton.com. » Hyatt Regency: This Mediterranean-style complex has well-appointed rooms and a number of dining and recreation options. Room rates start at $179. At 3777 La Jolla Village Drive, La Jolla, CA 92037. Call (858) 552-1234; www.hyatt.com. » Sheraton La Jolla Hotel: More modest than its neighbors but still comfortable. Guests receive coupons for 50 percent off dining at Humphrey's La Jolla Grill, located on site. Room rates start at $159. At 3299 Holiday Court, La Jolla, CA 92037. Call (858) 453-5500. » The Lodge at Torrey Pines: San Diego's only five-diamond accommodation, this elegant lodge offers ocean views and will be the site of the 2008 U.S. Open. Room rates start at $450. At 11480 N. Torrey Pines Road, La Jolla, CA 92037. Call (858) 453-4420; www.lodgetorreypines.com. Where to eat » Daphne's Greek Cafe: Casual eatery cooks up fresh, inexpensive Greek food. The gyros pita lunch, served with salad and rice pilaf, is tasty and filling. At 8657 Villa La Jolla Drive, Suite 105, San Diego, CA 92037. Call (858) 623-6940; www.daphnesgreekcafe.com. » Humphrey's La Jolla Grill at the Sheraton: Fine dining and exemplary service characterize this eating establishment across from UC-San Diego. Nearly everything on the menu is worth trying. At 3299 Holiday Court, La Jolla, CA 92037. Call (858) 452-4000; www.humphreysgrill.signonsandiego.com. » Miami Grille: The Caribbean cuisine in this mall-based restaurant is flavorful, unique and reasonable. Try the sopa de garbanzo (garbanzo soup) or lechon encendio (pulled pork served with black beans and Caribbean rice). At 4353 La Jolla Village Drive, University Towne Center, La Jolla, CA 92122. Call (858) 552-0668; www.miamigrille.com. What to see and do » Museum of Contemporary Art San Diego: www.mcasd.org » La Jolla Cove: www.sandiego.gov/lifeguards/beaches/cove.shtml » Torrey Pines State Reserve and Beach: www.torreypine.org » University of California at San Diego: www.ucsd.edu » Birch Aquarium at Scripps: aquarium.ucsd.edu More information » www.sandiego.org

Nearby is La Jolla Cove. As part of the ecological reserve known as the San Diego-La Jolla Underwater Park, the cove is populated by swimmers, kayakers and divers hoping to catch a glimpse of the native marine life. Following lawn-studded Scripps Park along the shore, my family and I spot pelicans, seagulls and basking sea lions. The sweeping coastal views cause many a tourist to start snapping photos, especially at sunset when the light casts a golden sheen on the Pacific.

A stack of boat hulls protrude from a building near the southern end of Coast Boulevard. This unusual formation is part of the Museum of Contemporary Art San Diego, whose La Jolla branch entrance is located on nearby Prospect Street. Here even the audio tours are cutting-edge. Instead of the usual and somewhat clunky hand-held audio devices, tours can be downloaded onto MP3 players or accessed via a local cell phone number.

Exhibits include such creative pieces as a sail woven out of audiotape and wading pools filled with pleasantly clinking bowls and glasses. Outside, a path overlooks the sea, meandering past abstract sculpture such as a colorful, mosaiclike statue by Niki de Saint Phalle. This compact and hip art complex also features films, lectures, a whimsical store and a cafe serving light meals and drinks.

Uphill from the beach are hotels, shops and eateries. Though the area tends toward the high end, there is a range. Clothing stores include souvenir T-shirt shops and chains like the Gap, as well as Paris-like boutiques. Pizzerias and ice cream parlors can be found among the seafood- and fusion-inspired menus. After refueling our stomachs, we are ready to continue exploring elsewhere.

Torrey Pines

Fog curls around the towering sandstone cliffs as I hike along the shore. The steady wind drowns out all sound except that of the surf and the seagulls. Clouds cover the sun, casting a monochrome light over the seemingly endless beach. It feels like I have stepped into an Ansel Adams photograph.

This is Torrey Pines State Reserve and Beach, technically located just north of La Jolla. The reserve covers 2,000 acres, while the beach stretches for 4.5 miles. The eponymous trees, pinus torreyana, grow only here and on nearby Santa Rosa Island. Wind and fog have created an otherworldly landscape, twisting the trees and carving odd-shaped hollows into the sandstone cliffs.

The stucco Visitor Center and Museum are located high atop the reserve, providing bird's-eye views of the ocean, Los Peasquitos Marsh Natural Preserve and surrounding communities. Inside are several flora and fauna displays as well as a room where a film covering the history of the reserve is shown. Outside are two native plant gardens and a number of hiking trails ranging from 0.1 to 1.3 miles in length.

Adjacent is the five-star Lodge at Torrey Pines, site of the 2008 U.S. Open. Besides its world-famous golf course, the hotel also houses a spa and a signature restaurant, A.R. Valentien. The kilt-clad doormen, crackling fireplace and Louis Comfort Tiffany-style lamps lend a refined atmosphere to the resort.

During our limited stopover, I note that the children's section of the gift shop contains such books as Munro Leaf's "How to Behave and Why." After exiting the stained-glass doors of the lobby, I peek into the pro shop, filled with U.S. Open paraphernalia. The misty ocean view is a perfect backdrop for golfers outside, busily perfecting their strokes.

UCSD and the Birch Aquarium at Scripps

The University of California at San Diego is enviably located directly in La Jolla. The pleasant wooded campus houses a contemporary-style library, bustling student union and a row of vendors selling affordable clothing, costume jewelry and posters. The surroundings bring back memories of college, but I quickly realize that I am in a different stage of life when a passer-by espies my young daughter and jokes, "What's a baby doing on campus?"

We head toward a more keiki-oriented attraction, the Birch Aquarium at Scripps. A silvery swath of sardines greets us at the entrance to the Hall of Fishes. Inside, the exhibits are organized by geography, covering California's northwest and southern coasts, Mexico and the tropics. Striking are menacing moray eels, floating nautiluses, luminous jellies and a giant octopus. In the 70,000-gallon kelp forest tank, tangerine-colored garibaldi, California's state fish, are easily spotted.

On the balcony outside are tide pools where little ones can touch local marine life. In the outdoor courtyard are a shark reef exhibit and three water play stations for children.

Back inside, two galleries contain intriguing rotating exhibits. "Feeling the Heat: The Climate Challenge" brings the effects of global warming home through visual, auditory and tactile exhibits, including the opportunity to act as a weather newscaster. "The Art of Deception" challenges visitors to distinguish camouflaged creatures, such as chameleons or leafy sea dragons, from their natural environment.

We stay until the aquarium closes, then call it a day. Regardless of whether the name La Jolla stems from the Spanish word for jewel, this seaside resort community is certainly a gem.