Clothed in culture

Chieko Breeze Yamaguchi considers herself more of a cultural guide than a designer, so there will be people disappointed to know the garments she creates are not for sale. Instead, the founder and leader of Kimono Samba hopes her work, and that of her students, will inspire others to take up needle and thread.

"Open Your Tansu" A video of Chieko Yamaguchi speaking about her work in January is at starbulletin.com/blogs/fashiontribe/ open-your-tansu-sneak-preview/ Japanese Women's Society Foundation fundraising fashion show: » Place: Sheraton Waikiki Hotel » Date: April 13 » Time: 10 a.m. to 2 p.m. » Tickets: $60 general, $75 prime, $100 extra special » Call: Suzette, 524-0450, or Ritsy, 593-8950 Kimono Samba workshop » Place: Natsunoya Tea House, 1935 Makanani Drive » Date: April 15 » Time: 10 a.m. to 2 p.m. » Cost: $40, includes bento lunch » Call: Suzette, 524-0450

It became her mission to save vintage and antique obis and kimono silks about 15 years ago. The Ibaragi, Japan, native had just returned from New Zealand after living there for 23 years and working as an interpreter and tour guide. Years of living abroad heightened her appreciation of Japanese culture and arts, so when she returned home, she was saddened to see so much of her country's textile legacy was being lost as people dumped their obis and kimonos in favor of Western attire. She created Kimono Samba -- which translates as "kimono rebirth" -- to spread the idea of using the vintage silks and brocades to create modern apparel.

She presented a little fashion show here in January as part of the Japanese Women's Society Foundation new-year celebration, and will be bringing some of her students for the organization's full-scale fundraising fashion show, "Open Your Tansu," April 13 at the Sheraton Waikiki Hotel, also featuring designs by Takeo and Eric Kamakahia'ai Chandler.

"Tansu" refers to the traditional Japanese storage chests, and Yamaguchi hopes the event will inspire audience members to leave thinking, "I'll go home, open my tansu and have a look at what's in it."

To help people get started, she'll be presenting a $40-per-person workshop April 15 at Natsunoya Tea House in Alewa Heights.

"I want to spread the idea everywhere because people are throwing these things away, but I like good material and the colors and patterns of the older pieces are extraordinary," said Yamaguchi, who might have been destined to revive the kimono.

She grew up in a family of kimono merchants, but it was only after living abroad that she began to appreciate how clothing is the product of geography, climate and culture. She observed that most Asian countries developed loose-fitting clothing with wide openings that allowed breezes to flutter through during seasons of high temperature and humidity, while Western clothing was influenced by Northern Europe, where a cold climate made it necessary to sew close-fitting clothes with smaller openings, to hold warmth.

The kimono comprises rectangular pieces of fabric that do not require an exact fit, and Yamaguchi prefers to retain an Asian approach as she reuses the fabric. As Western as the garments might appear, the spirit of the originals is evident in the preservation of rectangular pieces and as much of the fabric's symbolic, pictorial elements as possible.

In Japan, Yamaguchi's students include housewives, business professionals and, most encouraging, youths who previously showed little interest in the kimono. "To see them being remade and born again is such a lovely feeling," she said.