Hawaii’s Back Yard Cheryl Chee Tsutsumi

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Dolphin tours get up close and personal

"They're beautiful! They're amazing!"

Digital camera pressed against her face, the woman standing beside me on the main deck of Hoku Naia ("dolphin star") could not take her eyes off the two Hawaiian spinner dolphins gliding swiftly and smoothly, like twin torpedoes, right below the boat's bow.

Wild Dolphin Watch & Lunch Cruise » Offered: Aboard Hoku Naia, from 9:30 to 11:30 a.m. daily except Mondays, Christmas, New Year's and Thanksgiving » Cost: $65 for adults, $39 for ages 3 through 11 (20 percent kamaaina discount), free for ages 2 and younger. Price includes lunch of grilled hamburgers, chips, brownies and one nonalcoholic beverage. Additional nonalcoholic beverages may be purchased for $3. Vegetarian burgers are available with 24 hours' advance notice. Through Dec. 30, local residents can buy one adult ticket at the regular price and receive one adult ticket free. » Transportation: Round-trip accommodations provided between most Waikiki hotels and Waianae Boat Harbor for an additional $20 per person; between Ko Olina Resort and the harbor for an additional $10 per person. On the bus, narration by a guide and a video produced for the tour provide information about Hawaiian history and culture, marine life and significant sights along the way. You also can drive on your own and meet the group at the boat harbor 45 minutes prior to departure. » Call: 983-7827 on Oahu or toll-free (800) 334-6191 from the neighbor islands » E-mail: info@starofhonolulu.com » Web site: www.starofhonolulu.com » Notes: Wear sunscreen, a hat or visor and casual, comfortable clothes. Hoku Naia is not wheelchair-accessible.

Our group had spotted them less than a minute after leaving Waianae Boat Harbor on the Wild Dolphin Watch & Lunch Cruise.

Six more dolphins soon joined the pair, a few leaping out of the water and twirling with the grace and agility of acrobats, less than 10 feet from Hoku Naia. Not the least bit shy, they seemed to enjoy performing for us as much as we enjoyed watching them.

Star of Honolulu Cruises & Events built Hoku Naia -- a 65-foot, 149-passenger twin-hull catamaran -- specifically for its two-hour Wild Dolphin Watch & Lunch Cruise, which launched in October.

In the mid-1980s, company executives attended a Passenger Vessel Association convention where they were inspired by cruise operators in Texas and on the East Coast who ran dolphin watches.

"We thought it would be interesting for us to look into," said President Ronald D. Howard. "Over the past decade, we've noticed a growing popularity in eco-type tours that attract people who are interested in the natural resources that make Hawaii such a unique and beautiful place."

Research quickly determined that the Waianae Coast on the Leeward side of Oahu would be ideal for such a tour.

"The Waianae range is largely shielded from the rains brought to the islands by northeasterly tradewinds," said Howard. "This makes it much drier and keeps runoff to a minimum. Thus, some of the clearest water in Hawaii is found off the beaches of the Waianae Coast."

That might be the reason why dolphins and a plethora of other marine life -- including flying fish, manta rays, false killer whales and endangered Hawaiian green sea turtles -- thrive there. From now through April it's also a favorite playground for humpback whales.

About three years ago, Star of Honolulu Cruises & Events secured an operating permit for Waianae Boat Harbor, setting in motion plans to construct a brand-new, custom-designed vessel for an eco-friendly tour.

Hoku Naia's low-emission main engines meet Environmental Protection Agency standards. The vessel has no electric generators, relying instead on waste energy from the engines to keep battery banks charged.

According to recent National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration studies, Hoku Naia's cruising speed of 15 mph is safe for marine animals, and custom stabilizers ensure a comfortable ride in the open ocean.

The catamaran is also equipped with a dining area, bar, restroom, barbecue facility, a wraparound main deck and an upper-level observation deck that provides 360-degree views.

"You can see dolphins, whales and other marine life from just about anywhere on Hoku Naia," said Howard. "Her freeboard was purposely kept low so you can get a close-up feel whether you're on the main deck or the observation deck getting a look down into deeper water."

THE ROUTE DEPENDS on sea conditions and what the captain deems best for dolphin watching.

"It can go north toward Kaena Point or south toward Ko Olina," said Howard. "Usually, we see dolphins within three miles in either direction from Waianae Harbor. Dolphins in Hawaii have not been hunted like others in the Pacific, making them less afraid of humans. This gives guests a rare opportunity to see them in the wild."

Since the Wild Dolphin Watch began, as many as 100 of the sleek, friendly creatures have been seen on every trip.

"In the unlikely case that you don't spot a dolphin, we'll issue a Dolphin Check good for a free return cruise until you do," said Howard. "If you'd like a meal and transportation, they would be available for an additional fee."

Certified naturalists enhance the excursion with fascinating tidbits about the Hawaiian spinner, spotted and bottlenose dolphins that frequent the area. For example, dolphins have acute vision and hearing but no sense of smell.

"To me, dolphins are fascinating because they seem to have such playful personalities," said Howard. "They're also very intelligent and social creatures."

He loves the story Dean Elvenia, Hoku Naia's manager, shared about an elderly guest on a recent Wild Dolphin Watch who had trouble walking.

"As soon as the crew announced a dolphin sighting, however, she was so excited she seemed to have no problems with her leg," said Howard. "She rushed to the side of the boat for a look along with everyone else!

"People of all ages will enjoy this fun, educational cruise. Also, we kamaaina sometimes take for granted that we live in such a special place. The Wild Dolphin Watch reminds us how lucky we are."