Wine boutiques take root

Owners offer personalized service that is not available at the discount giants

APPROXIMATELY five new boutique wine shops have opened in the last three years, a clear signal that the demand for quality wines and personal service is rising dramatically in Hawaii.

The Wine Stop, HASR (Highly Allocated Spoiled Rotten), Simply Grape, The People's Wine Shop and SWAM (Shiroma's Wine And More) are among stores following in the footsteps of Fujioka's, Tamura's and Vintage Wine Cellar, which opened in Makiki more than 35 years ago.

Even so, it's not an easy business. "I personally believe the attractiveness of retailing is seductive," said wine merchant Lyle Fujioka, who started his eponymous wine store in Haleiwa before moving into town. "But the hard realities set in. It's very difficult to survive as a small shop, because of the volume that you need to do."

But The Wine Stop owners Liane Fu and Kim Karalovich think it's worth it. Rarely is anyone available in a supermarket or Costco to help you navigate your choices, which is why the larger stores rely on branding. You tend to buy the wines you know. Smaller shops give you an opportunity to get out of the grocery stores and into an environment where experts understand your wine preferences and can suggest new possibilities with a high probability of success.

Nick Keeler of Simply Grape says that knowing customers personally makes all the difference, because wine is as much about the social and culinary setting as it is about taste inclinations.

Still, Fujioka cautions that even though intimate wine tastings, specialized selections and personal recommendations may set small shops apart from supermarkets, Costco should be everyone's concern, because nobody can compete with their price margin.

What remains to be seen is how the market will evolve.

Terry Kakazu of HASR thinks that having a variety of shopping choices is better for wine enthusiasts. "It's not competition for me; it's all about sharing the passion." Besides, people who learn about wine tend to stay with it. "Once you taste that certain wine," she said, "there's no going back."

---

Enjoying the fruit of labor

An interest in wine and a belief in personalized service bring these three pairs of partners into the business of wine

HASR » Find it: 31 N. Pauahi St., 1B, 535-WINE (9463) www.hasrwineco.com » Hours: 10 a.m. to 8 p.m. weekdays; 10 p.m. to 5 p.m. weekends; 10 a.m. to 10 p.m. on First Fridays » Tastings: Tues. and Fri., 5 p.m. to 7 p.m.

MOST OF the wines HASR owners Michael and Terry Kakazu carry are "not even available anywhere else," said Terry. Obtaining the California rarities is what Terry considers her specialty.

HASR stands for Highly Allocated Spoiled Rotten. "They call me spoiled rotten because most of the time, I get what I want," laughed Terry. How? She fosters relationships with vineyard owners and wine representatives and vigilantly attends auctions. To date, she owns 11 different wine lots.

Hand-selling each bottle is how she has established her reputation. "People come in for recommendations and we try to help them as much as possible. That's why we're successful. They fully trust us. ... We taste everything that's in here."

Terry's biggest frustration is not being able to please everyone. "No matter how many wines you have, there's always something somebody's looking for, and that just drives me crazy."

Her most unique wines include Swanson Vineyards Merlot infused with Malbec, Seps Estate Cabernet and Schweiger Kristina, an 11-year blend of Napa Valley cabernets. The latter, she said, "is not something you hold, because it's a combination of old and new. It's designed to drink right away."

Storage is limited, so most of her inventory is on display in the 1,200-square-foot shop. She sells a few food items, such as lavosh from the Big Island, and high-end scotch and vodka. The gourmet food angle, she hinted, will take shape down the road in a new store, hopefully nearby.

After opening a bar called Paul and Terry's Place, the former beer drinker began to introduce her customers to the beauty of the grape by hosting wine tastings in the mid-1990s. She remains committed to the concept, and offers complimentary tastings twice a week. "It's an education, she said. "You don't have to buy a whole bottle to figure out you don't like it." On First Fridays, as many as 600 people come through HASR to try new wines.

Terry prefers hiring wine novices and training them so they know everything about the wine in the shop. This way, beginners feel comfortable talking to younger staff members, and oenophiles can ask for Terry or Michael.

Owning a small shop means getting away is difficult. But Kakazu thinks traveling to Napa Valley for wine auctions and harvests is essential. "If you share stories about the winery, customers understand and remember the wine," she said. "It's all about the story."

---

SIMPLY GRAPE » Find it: 841 Bishop St., Suite 153, 447-9000, www.simplygrape.net » Hours: Mon. through Fri., 11 a.m. to 7 p.m. » Tastings: Wed., 4 to 7 p.m.

LAST YEAR, Nicolas Keeler and Lael Dandan planned a large wedding, got married, opened their downtown wine store and competed on NBC-TV's "The Biggest Loser," dropping 112 pounds between them. Their incentive for entering the competition was the $50,000 grand prize, which they wanted to invest in their new business.

Another couple won the competition, but Keeler and Dandan moved ahead with plans for the boutique wine shop anyway. They, too, value the personal approach. "We taste all the wines in our store, and if we like it and we think it's yummy, we bring it in," said Keeler. They don't carry wines available at Costco, because they want their supply to be entirely different.

"What our regulars like about our store is that we tend to turn our stock over," said Keeler, who has previous experience in business and a passion for wine. "They're always asking, 'What's new this week? Show me the new find.' "

Personal attention is an essential component, confirmed Dandan. "I think we also have a good connection with our customers; we just talk story with everybody," she said. Keeler and Dandan know and remember clientele profiles, and make recommendations based on individual preferences. They don't hesitate to tell customers what they may want to try, or steer them away from what they probably will not like.

Keeler and Dandan also have been scouting fancy food shows and talking seriously about adding a cooler and European cheeses, tapenades and gourmet crackers to their inventory.

Once per quarter they travel to wine tastings. Their next trip will be to New Zealand in May. When they find a wine they like, they work with the local distributor to bring it into their store. But they admitted that getting what they want in Hawaii is much more difficult than it sounds.

Their store favorites right now include Ridge Montebello Cabernet and La Sirena dry muscat, a low-sugar version of a sweet wine. Another is Picpole De Pinet from France, a $12.95 bottle that Keeler calls a unique alternative to a chardonnay or sauvignon blanc. Something for a more special occasion is the Mantra Cabernet Sauvignon from Sonoma, which runs $30 to $40.

Keeler's favorite part of what he does? "I get to tell people I drink for a living!"

---

THE WINE STOP » Find it: 809 South King St., 946-3707, www.thewinestophawaii.com » Hours: Mon. through Thurs. 10 a.m. to 9 p.m.; Fri./Sat. 10 a.m. to 10 p.m.; Sun. 11 a.m. to 7 p.m. » Tastings: Sat. 1 to 5 p.m.

IN A PLEASANT cottage atmosphere that makes you feel at home immediately, The Wine Stop owners Liane Fu and Kim Karalovich walk their loyal customers through an impressive selection of wines, beers and specialty spirits such as Roberto Cavalli and P.I.N.K. (Trump's new vodka will arrive soon), as well as an array of wine accessories and gift items.

"We wanted to bring in something new, something vibrant," Fu said of their opening 3-1/2 years ago. "A boutique concept that's service-oriented."

The two certified sommeliers also started a wine club that people can rotate in or out of each month. Basic membership of $25 gives customers two wines from a specific country, suggested food pairings and store discounts. Another level of membership costs $65, and offers limited and allocated wines.

Interestingly, surveys have shown that 80 percent of men who purchase wine do so from small shops. But women do the majority of the buying during regular grocery shopping trips. Fu and Karalovich hope to change that by making novices feel more comfortable with unfamiliar names.

When asked about her favorite wine in stock right now, Karalovich said it was impossible to answer. "They're all my babies!" she said. "It's kind of like asking, 'Which child is your favorite?'" But she did suggest their wine of the month -- Cliff Lede Cabernet Sauvignon, at $48. "It's delicious and approachable, and it's going to come and go very quickly."

They've also set themselves apart by selling cheeses and Italian meats, and offering event-planning services. They organize in-home wine tastings, or work with Gourmet Cooking Hawaii to cater private parties, where they will pair wine and food, and casually pour and present the selections. In addition, the business partners will lead a VIP tour through Napa Valley in May.

At their busy location, parking could be a problem. But Fu and Karalovich said their regulars know it's OK to park on the lawn. Like some of the other small shops, they also offer delivery services.

When trying to figure out what a customer might like, Karolovich said, "We do try to extrapolate some information." What is the menu for the evening? What's your budget? "As the price goes up, the more sophisticated the wine becomes, but not everyone can appreciate that," added Fu.

The boutique concept really comes down to one thing, said Fu: "It's all about being recognized when you walk in the door."