AUSTRALIA - NEW ZEALAND
MONICA QUOCK CHAN / SPECIAL TO THE STAR-BULLETIN
The iconic Sydney Opera House is one of the world's top performing arts centers, set against the backdrop of Sydney Harbor.
|
|
Down Under
Natural wonders are everywhere
By Monica Quock Chan
Special to the Star-Bulletin
"NO PETROL: 815 KM."
The succinct road sign, set against the cayenne-colored outback, drives home how spacious Australia is. No gas for 500 miles, and it's not due to the current oil shortage. It's simply because there are few gas stations, or any markings of civilization for that matter, this far out in the bush.
Yet, hopping a three-hour flight from here will transport travelers to a vastly different area from, say, the stunning Great Barrier Reef or sophisticated Sydney. Many people are surprised to learn that Australia covers roughly the same amount of land as the United States, hence the provincial diversity. From the rustic bush to the dazzling beaches, from the bustling metropolises to the tropical rain forests, Australia is truly a land of intense variety. My husband and I try to cover as much of Oz as we can in two weeks, stopping over briefly in New Zealand on our way home.
"We're off to see the winter, the wonderful winter of Oz."
At 40 degrees Fahrenheit, Melbourne is chillier then we imagined, but the cold does not hinder the energetic denizens of Australia's second-largest city. A crowd gathers in Federation Square, where modern architects had a heyday designing the funky buildings, to listen to a rally against nuclear weapons. The greetings of "G'day" and "How ya goin'" remind us that although English is the primary language, we "Yanks" still need to listen closely to understand the local colloquialisms.
Beyond Federation Square, the Melbourne Park National Tennis Center comes into view, its 26 courts home to the world-famous Australian Open. It begins to rain, a welcome occurrence in this drought-strapped country where having an ample supply of clean, fresh water is a pressing problem for the ever-growing population. One native of Melbourne comments wryly that although the politicians are pushing recycled water, he hasn't actually seen any of them drinking it yet.
Attempting to traverse 350 miles in one day while sightseeing is not our typical mode of travel. However, due to a tight schedule and the lure of one of the world's most breathtaking scenic routes, we find ourselves boarding a coach bus before dawn the next day that will take us along Australia's magnificent Great Ocean Road.
MONICA QUOCK CHAN / SPECIAL TO THE STAR-BULLETIN
Kangaroo Island's bizarrely shaped Remarkable Rocks live up to their name.
|
|
Our guide and driver, Chris, points out the wattle acacia, the emerald and gold national flower whose coloring inspires the outfits for Australia's sports teams. Next, we pass through the town of Geelong, famous for its private grammar school where Prince Charles was once an exchange student. Rivaling Hawaii's North Shore is Torquay and environs, home to Ripcurl and the outstanding surf at Bells Beach.
And what would a visit to Australia be without experiencing the unique native fauna? Fuzzy gray balls tucked high into the branches of blue gum trees (eucalyptuses) indicate that this is koala country. These solitary creatures lead a life of envy, napping up to 19 hours per day.
It's said that at an estimated 50 million, the kangaroo population in Australia is twice that of humans. These marsupials are so common in one town, Anglesea, that the local golf course has modified its rules. If a kangaroo happens upon the course, interrupting a player's stance or stroke, a pickup and drop is allowed without penalty.
Near Apollo Bay, a black fin suddenly pokes up Jaws-like out of the water close to shore. We let out a sigh of relief when Chris announces it's a harmless southern right whale cavorting with its calf.
Chris deftly guides our coach through what he dubs "the wriggly bits," the sinuous parts of the road that hug the breathtaking coastline where precipitous cliffs perch over the tumultuous ocean. Beyond Tasmania, the next land to be found south of here is Antarctica. Before long we reach Port Campbell National Park, the highlight of our journey.
MONICA QUOCK CHAN / SPECIAL TO THE STAR-BULLETIN
A local Aborigine demonstrates how to play the didgeridoo, a traditional instrument with a low vibrating tone.
|
|
The Twelve Apostles, formerly known as the Sow and Piglets, are immense limestone formations that rise out of the sea. Images of these natural towers grace Australian tourist brochures worldwide. Picturesque as these photos are, viewing them is nothing like the palpable magnificence of experiencing the spires in person. Other impressive and uniquely shaped formations in the park include the Razorback, Island Archway, Loch & Gorge, Muttonbird Island and London Bridge.
Spectacular waves brought on by winter in the Southern Hemisphere pummel the limestone, highlighting the force of the surging Atlantic. These powerful undulations not only create the formations, but also return them to the sea. For example, the middle section of London Bridge collapsed in 1990, and one of the Apostles toppled over just this past summer. With the ever-changing nature of the Great Ocean Road landscape in mind, we head back toward Melbourne.
Kangaroo Island
"Peep, peep, peep!"
High-pitched chirps emanate from the stack of boxes that board the plane with us on the 40-minute ride from Adelaide to Kangaroo Island. With only 12 or so passengers on board, it turns out that the tiny aircraft is carrying more baby chicks than people.
MONICA QUOCK CHAN / SPECIAL TO THE STAR-BULLETIN
The steaming pools and geysers at Whakarewarewa Thermal Reserve in Rotorua indicate a hotbed of geothermal activity.
|
|
Kangaroo Island is one of Australia's best-kept secrets. Unlike much of Oz, rabbits and foxes were never introduced here, and thus the indigenous animals flourished. At 90 miles across, Kangaroo Island is Australia's third largest yet has a population of only 4,300. Much of the land is still dense, unexplored bush, despite the abundance of sheep farms; 800,000 sheep make their home here. The scrumptious food is fresh and utilizes a plenitude of local ingredients. These include flavorful Haloumie sheep cheese, viscous honey and even tender kangaroo, which, when sautéed, tastes mildly like beef.
The locals pride themselves on preserving the bucolic nature of the place. Many of them are farmers, hence the checked-in chicks. Doors remain unlocked, keys are left in ignitions and shopping for clothes often requires a trip to Adelaide.
Yet most of the locals wouldn't have it any other way, for Kangaroo Island is a treasure of natural beauty. Cape du Couedic is a must-see, with the crenelated Admiral Arch formation set against an expansive ocean backdrop where New Zealand fur seals jump among the waves. Nearby the bizarre-shaped and wind-whipped Remarkable Rocks are nature's answer to Salvador Dali.
As part of the island's goal of responsible ecotourism, several worthwhile parks have been established: Flinders Chase National Park, Seal Bay Conservation Park and Lathami Conservation Park. Yet the wildlife is not confined to the parks. With 40,000 koalas on the island, the cuddly creatures are common fixtures, as are the kangaroos. We also spot the hedgehoglike echidna, an egg-laying mammal that hails as the platypus' only relative. When swimming, the echidna uses its long snout as a snorkel.
MONICA QUOCK CHAN / SPECIAL TO THE STAR-BULLETIN
Koalas nestling in eucalyptus trees are a common sight on Kangaroo Island.
|
|
In the morning, a bandy-tailed opossum peeks out at us curiously from its home in the hollow of a tree. The birds are plentiful and colorful -- yellow-tailed black cockatoos, crimson rosellas, black swans and rainbow lorikeets. Even the plants are intriguing, with names such as snotty gobble.
A nocturnal tour of the island reveals boobook owls, little blue penguins and, as our driver almost swerves off of the road, wallabies, which look like miniature kangaroos.
Cosmopolitan Sydney
On our way to Sydney, we take advantage of our layover in Adelaide to drive around this tranquil city with its wide streets and picturesque setting on the River Torrens. It's a good jumping-off point for oenophiles to visit the nearby Barossa wine region, famed for producing more than 25 percent of Australia's wines.
Arriving in Sydney, we are immediately struck by how spread out the area is, with densely packed suburbs stretching in all directions. Yet most of the major attractions and sights are conveniently situated near the harbor within a short distance of each other. It's straightforward to get around by train, ferry, walking and even water taxi.
Our first stop is Darling Harbour, a tourist precinct with more than enough to keep all ages amused. Sydney Aquarium sports a fascinating array of sea life and a captivating platypus exhibit. Other attractions include the Australian National Maritime Museum, home to a variety of ships, the interactive Powerhouse Museum, a well-designed Chinese Garden and a looming IMAX theater.
Less than a mile from Darling Harbour is the A.M.P. Centerpoint Tower. Named after a local insurance company, this structure allows for panoramic views of Sydney from a vantage of nearly 1,000 feet. Included in the admission is Skytour, which provides a virtual overview of Oz via a creative show and simulator ride.
MONICA QUOCK CHAN / SPECIAL TO THE STAR-BULLETIN
The kangaroo population in Australia is said to be twice that of humans.
|
|
For equally stellar vistas, we ride the ferry, which chugs back and forth from the main ferry terminal at Circular Quay to Taronga Zoo. Here, the animals enjoy million-dollar harbor views from their site atop a hill in the suburb of Mosman. Strolling through the Royal Botanic Gardens offers fine views of the iconic Sydney Opera House set against the backdrop of Sydney Harbor Bridge. Walking south, we come across the elegant Art Gallery of New South Wales, which houses a worldwide collection of art from various time periods.
As we traverse the Sydney Harbor Bridge and ascend the Pylon Lookout, located nearly 300 feet above the water, we are treated to sweeping harbor views. Wanting to live to author this article, I choose to skip the 3 1/2-hour guided BridgeClimb that allows thrill-seekers to clamber up and across the actual bridge above several lanes of traffic. In all seriousness, however, the experience seems quite safe, as all participants are carefully screened, harnessed and monitored.
With its pristine sails set against the azure backdrop of Sydney Harbor, the Opera House is the most recognized symbol of the vibrant city. The performing art center's interior is no less fascinating, and the guided tour enlightens us with such interesting tidbits as the fact that the sails actually consist of more than a million tiny beige and white tiles. The Concert Hall has superb acoustics, and we are delighted to discover that the seats our local friends have obtained for an evening production of Giacomo Puccini's "La Bohème" happen to be in the front row.
Southeast of downtown Sydney is crescent-shaped Bondi Beach, a mecca for surfers. On the north side, Manly is a bustling suburb with a fine beach of its own lined with stately pines that shelter chattering lorikeets and cockatoos.
MONICA QUOCK CHAN / SPECIAL TO THE STAR-BULLETIN
A natural limestone arch rises out of the surging sea at Port Campbell National Park.
|
|
On a subsequent day, we board a train from Sydney leading to Featherdale Wildlife Park near Blacktown. From kangaroo-related quokkas to marsupial quolls, thin-skinned ghost bats to bearlike wombats, this complex hosts an amazing variety of Australian wildlife. Children in particular will enjoy the opportunity to pet the fuzzy koalas, kangaroos and wallabies.
The same train line extends to the Blue Mountains, a perfect place for a bushwalk through cool gum tree forests lined with sprawling ferns. Gushing waterfalls and overhanging cliffs make for stunning scenery, with the craggy Three Sisters formation being the most outstanding. We take in the expansive views from the lookout on Echo Point Road; the Scenic Railway, which boasts the world's steepest incline at 52 degrees; and the Skyway cable car, whose transparent bottom allows us to peer dizzyingly almost 1,000 feet below into the Jamison Valley.
Sightseeing requires sustenance, and Sydney's restaurant scene rises to the occasion, proffering a wide selection of fine cuisines. Popular choices include fresh seafood, Southeast Asian and Modern Australian, the latter a fusion of European and Asian styles also known as "Mod Oz." We savor our last few meals in Sydney, as we will soon be headed into the outback.
The Red Centre
"You shouldn't climb. It's not the real thing about this place. The real thing is listening to everything. Listening and understanding everything."
This admonition from the Anangu Aboriginal tribe, inscribed in the Uluru-Kata Tjuta Cultural Center, sticks in our minds as we gaze up at the sienna-colored Ayers Rock known locally as Uluru. Formed 600 million to 700 million years ago, the monolith is perhaps the most well-known rock in the world.
Heeding the Anangu's recommendation, we elect to take a guided tour around the base instead of climbing. Uluru appears smooth from afar, but studied up close surprisingly reveals caves inscribed with Aboriginal symbols, sheltering ravines and gorges surrounded by white ghost gum trees, whose powder creates a natural sunblock.
The Anangu have been residing here for a mind-boggling 40,000 to 60,000 years, living off of the native flora and fauna such as bush plums, honey ants and witchetty grubs (which we thankfully do not have to eat). Both reluctant to share their stories with outsiders and lacking a written tradition, the Anangu orally communicate their legends and "tjukurpa" (loosely translated as their social, legal, religious and ethical code) to their progeny. Although stories differ somewhat from tribe to tribe, the parts that overlap are poetically called songlines.
Nearby are the Olgas, known to the natives as Kata Tjuta, or "many heads." Kata Tjuta consists of 36 curved conglomerate rock formations. Although overshadowed by Uluru's fame, Kata Tjuta is actually more visually interesting than Uluru and plays an even greater role in the Anangu legends.
MONICA QUOCK CHAN / SPECIAL TO THE STAR-BULLETIN
Seal Bay Conservation Park on Kangaroo Island houses a colony of approximately 500 Australian sea lions, like the one at left.
|
|
Back at Uluru, we watch the colors change majestically at sunset from tawny to peach, from tangerine to marigold. The crimson sky laced with pink and violet wisps is a sight to behold. Up at dawn, we observe the spectacle in reverse from the opposite side of the rock. At one point the sandstone monolith seems to glow in the glory of the sunrise. Shutters snap in all directions. With this daybreak splendor in mind, we fly off to another natural wonder, the Great Barrier Reef.
Watery wonderland
It's everyone's dream of vacationing in Australia: breezily sailing in a catamaran along the Great Barrier Reef with live music, tasty food and cheerful company. This is a common experience in Cairns, where the balmy tropical weather, palm trees and laid-back atmosphere remind us of, well, Hawaii.
The reef encounter is unique, though; there is a reason why it is called the Great Barrier Reef. Covering nearly 136,000 square miles, this vast stretch of coral supports roughly 1,500 types of fish and countless other creatures. We espy numerous coral species and hues while snorkeling off of Michaelmas Cay. Spotting several giant clams is the highlight of our excursion. For those who don't swim, semisubmersibles provide aquariumlike views; for the more adventurous, the dives are difficult to surpass.
Besides the reef, Cairns offers a variety of attractions. The Scenic Railway heads up to the mountain town of Kuranda on a 90-minute trip, passing through Barron Gorge National Park and 15 tunnels before arriving at its destination. The Skyrail Rainforest Cableway is a stunning way to head back down the mountain. Passing high over the misty rain forest, the gondolas stop along the journey at two informative boardwalk stations where visitors are enlightened about the area's ecology.
The Skyrail lets us off near the Tjapukai Aboriginal Cultural Park, where the history and traditions of the local Aborigines are displayed through songs, dances, shows and demonstrations. A deep vibrating tone catches our attention. A tribe member is blowing into the didgeridoo, a musical instrument created from a long stick hollowed out by termites. Trying our hand at spear tossing and boomerang throwing, we are grateful that we do not have to depend on hunting wild animals for food.
Having experienced a taste of Aboriginal culture, we look forward to traveling to New Zealand and learning about the native Maori.
Land of long white clouds
After landing in Auckland, we head toward Rotorua, the heart of Maori culture and an area bubbling with geothermal activity.
The pastoral countryside is laced with dairy and sheep farms sandwiched between verdant rolling hills. All appears peaceful, but just wait until the topic of sports is broached. For example, the New Zealanders, or Kiwis as they call themselves, are united in staunch support for their national rugby team, the All Blacks.
Arriving in Rotorua, the characteristic smell of geothermal areas -- sulfur -- instantly fills our nostrils. We meander down to the contrasting Blue and Green Lakes and past tranquil Lake Okareka. The most impressive body of water, however, is Lake Tarawera. The waters are so still that they almost perfectly reflect Mount Tarawera and New Zealand's characteristic long white clouds.
Back toward town, we attend the award-winning show and "hangi" at the Tamaki Maori Village. Similar to a luau, the experience includes traditional singing and dancing, as well as demonstrations of games and crafts.
The following morning, we head out to steamy Wai-o-tapu. Even before arriving, we see plumes of vapors spewing into the sky.
Highlights of Wai-o-tapu include the boiling mud areas and the vibrant colors of the frothing pools -- citrine, persimmon, turquoise and celadon. A greenish tinge is said to indicate the presence of arsenic. The active boiling and splashing remind us that this is an unpredictable region located along the earthquake- and volcano-prone Pacific Ring of Fire.
The history of natural disasters in the area can be found at the Rotorua Museum of Art and History. An innovative film provides us with a preview, after which we peruse the multitude of displays. One exhibit highlights the spectacle that created the body of water, Lake Taupo, upon whose shores Rotorua is situated. Occurring in A.D. 186, the explosion was said to be 100 times as furious as that of the 1980 Mount St. Helens eruption.
For an up-close experience with the mineral pools, we relax the day before our flight home in the Polynesian Spa. The steaming pools soothe our bodies, and the vistas over Lake Taupo relax our minds.
A visit to the Whakarewarewa Thermal Reserve reveals further bubbling activity, including the gushing Pohutu Geyser. A kiwi is on display here for those who want to view the normally shy and elusive bird. Also worth studying are the intricate wooden carvings of the Maori.
As we head back home over water and land, we recall all that we have experienced in these lands down under, and it seems like it has been more than just two weeks. It will certainly be a fortnight to remember for a lifetime.
If you go
Major international airlines flying from Honolulu to Australia include Air Canada, Air New Zealand, Continental, Qantas and United Airlines. See this section's Travel Almanac for current fares. Note that prices listed are approximate and subject to currency fluctuations:
HOTELS
» Ramada Melbourne: At 270 Flinders St., Melbourne VIC 3000. A standard double room is AUD$175 (U.S.$133). Call 011-61-3-9654-6888; fax 011-61-3-9654-0368. Online: www. ramadamelbourne.com.au
» Kangaroo Island Lodge: Scenic Drive, P.O. Box 285, American River, Kangaroo Island SA 5221. A standard double room is AUD$110 (U.S.$84). Call 011-61-8-8553-7053; fax 011-61-8-8553-7030. Online: www.kilodge.com.au
» Rendezvous Stafford Hotel Sydney: 75 Harrington St, The Rocks, Sydney NSW 2000. A standard double room is AUD$215 (U.S.$163). Call 011-61-2-9251-6711; fax 011-61-2-9251-3458. Online: www.rendezvous hotels.com
» Mercure Sydney Airport: 20 Levey St., Wolli Creek NSW 2205. A standard double room is AUD$157 (U.S.$119). Call 011-61-2-9518-2000; fax 011-61-2-9518-2002. Online: www. mercure.com
» Lost Camel: Voyages Ayers Rock Resort, Yulara Drive, Yulara NT 0872. A standard double room is AUD$317 (U.S.$241). Call 011-61-8-8957-7888; fax 011-61-8-8957-7301. Online: www.voyages.com.au
» Cairns Plaza Hotel: 145 The Esplanade, P.O. Box 1100, Cairns QLD 4870. A standard double room is AUD$115 (U.S.$88). Call 011-61-7-4051-4688; fax 011-61-7-4051-8129. Online: www.plazahotels.com. au/cairns.htm
» Grand Tiara Hotel and Conference Center: Fenton St., P.O. Box 983, Rotorua, New Zealand. A standard double room is NZ$145 (U.S.$100). Call 011-64-7-349-5200; fax 011-64-7-349-5201. Online: www.grandtiara.co.nz
DINING
» Spice of India: 12, 2-26 Elizabeth St., Melbourne, VIC 3000. Entrée price range (takeout): U.S.$5 to $10. Call/fax 011-61-3-9671-3363. No Web site.
» Apollo Bay Hotel Bistro: 95 Great Ocean Road, Apollo Bay, VIC 3233. Entrée price range (lunch): U.S.$7 to $15. Call 011-61-3-5237-6250; fax 011-61-3-5237-7161. Email: apollobayhotel@bigpond.com
» Kangaroo Island Lodge: See above. Entrée price range (dinner): U.S.$15 to $20. Call 011-61-8-8553-7053; fax 011-61-8-8553-7030. Online: www.kilodge.com.au
» Jordons Seafood: 197 Harbourside, Darling Harbour NSW 2000. Entrée price range (lunch): U.S.$20 to $30. Call 011-61-2-9281-3711; fax 011-61-2-9281-8538. Online: www.jordonsrestaurant.com.au
» Palace Chinese Restaurant: Shop 38, Level 1, Piccadilly Tower, 133-145 Castlereagh St., Sydney NSW 2000. Entrée price range (dinner): U.S.$10 to $25. Online: www.palacechinese.com.au
» Gecko's Café: Voyages Ayers Rock Resort, Yulara Drive, Yulara NT 0872. Entrée price range (dinner): U.S.$15 to $25. Call 011-61-8-8957-7888; fax 011-61-8-8957-7301. Online: www. ayersrockresort.com.au/dining
» Seafresh Restaurant: Grand Tiara Hotel and Conference Center, Fenton St., P.O. Box 983, Rotorua, New Zealand. Entrée price range (dinner): U.S.$20 to $30. Call 011-64-7-349-5200; fax 011-64-7-349-5201. Online: www.grandtiara.co.nz
DAY TOURS
» AAT Kings Tours (Great Ocean Road; Ayers Rock): 801 East Katella Ave., 3rd Floor, Anaheim, CA 92805. Call 1-866-240-1659 (information), 1-800-353-4525 (reservations), 1-714-456-0505 (main); fax 1-714-456 0501. Online: www.aatkings.com
» Adventure Charters (Kangaroo Island): P.O. Box 169, Kingscote SA 5223. Call 011-61-8-8553-9119; fax 011-61-8-8553-9122. Online: www.adventurecharters.com.au
» Ocean Spirit Cruises (Great Barrier Reef): 140 Mulgrave Rd., P.O. Box 2140, Cairns QLD 4870. Call 011-61-7-4031-2920; fax 011-61-7-4031-4344. Online: www.oceanspirit.com.au
MORE INFORMATION
» U.S. State Department: www.state.gov/travel
» General: www.australia.com, www.purenz.com
Monica Quock Chan is a Honolulu freelance writer. A born bookworm, she attended Cornell University (B.S.), University of Pennsylvania's Wharton School (M.B.A.) and Harvard University (M.A.). She has lived in Europe and Asia and has traveled to 50 countries.
