CRAIG T. KOJIMA / CKOJIMA@STARBULLETIN.COM
Ann Waid wears a versatile, detachable trench coat ($1,095) from Hugo Boss. The skirt unzips to be worn separately, leaving a cropped jacket that can also be worn with jeans or city shorts. The leather purse is $395. In the background is another look from the BOSS Orange fall collection inspired by the young immigrants of 1920s New York.
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Once upon a time ...
Hugo Boss opens in Waikiki, spinning a romantic tale of 1920s New York through its Orange collection for fall
Every nation has its own creation myth, and America's is a Cinderella story through and through. Ours is a story of tough, scrappy immigrants overcoming great obstacles to elevate themselves from rags to riches.
So, how does a German company woo American buyers? By selling a romanticized version of our own creation story back to us.
It works, and that will be evident this fall now that Hugo Boss is open, as of today, at 2124 Kalakaua Ave.
CRAIG T. KOJIMA / CKOJIMA@STARBULLETIN.COM
Mike Chun wears a BOSS Black $135 dress shirt and $995 coat, while Ann Waid matches him in a $225 blouse, $295 pant, $225 beaded scarf and $150 knit hat.
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Hugo Boss was recognized in the late 20th century for its urban-chic menswear line, but entered the 21st century with a commitment to devote equal time to women's wear. It's a move that appears to be paying off, despite the market saturation of women's brands.
Women were already shopping Hugo Boss anyway, if only to help the men in their lives.
"The woman was the force in choosing the style her man was to convey," said Anamaria Pavoni, marketing and public relations representative for Hugo Boss in New York, via e-mail.
"We had established a huge brand awareness for BOSS Black as a men's wear brand over the last 35 years internationally and felt that this was a very positive starting point for the launch of the women's collection six years ago," Pavoni said. "The response is very good: Women's wear actually is one of the biggest growth segments within the Hugo Boss group."
CRAIG T. KOJIMA / CKOJIMA@STARBULLETIN.COM
Above is the Hugo Boss bracelet that comes with an initial purchase from the BOSS Orange collection. More stones are added as you build your Hugo Boss wardrobe.
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From a design point of view, expertise in men's tailoring is echoed in the women's collections, albeit with feminine appeal.
"The mix of masculine and feminine elements is the fashion statement of the BOSS Black women's wear. Feminine power and sensuality, interpreted in a contemporary way, is the key message of our collections," Pavoni said. "I think that our success proves that we are headed in the right direction."
Those who walk through the doors will see two collections appealing to individuals' dual natures: the classic, elegant designs of the BOSS Black line, as well as the laid-back, leisure chic of the BOSS Orange line. Rather than being separated by price points, the lines appeal to wearers' multiple wardrobe needs, moods and emotions, with pieces for work, play and special evenings out.
The journey to America allowed the company to add to its European classicism a hefty dose of American fun and whimsy, and nowhere is this more evident than in the Orange collection, themed "Once Upon a Time in America" for fall, based on New York of the 1920s and '30s.
CRAIG T. KOJIMA / CKOJIMA@STARBULLETIN.COM
Zoe Morrison wears a BOSS Orange jacket ($595) and floral skirt ($395) with cotton-knit arm warmers ($75) and a matching knit scarf ($45).
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Where the BOSS Black "New Bohemians" collection for fall offers crisp, sophisticated tailoring in a subdued palette of blacks, grays and ivory with highlight colors of blue, red, violet and burnt orange, the BOSS Orange collection serves up a softer, relaxed look.
The collection's playful appeal is accentuated by the many surprising details that greet shoppers in the form of a flash of color in linings, hidden detachable pouches and "love notes" from designers to wearers. Women who make an initial purchase of a BOSS Orange piece also receive an orange agate on a Hugo Boss leather cord bracelet. Each additional purchase will come with a small orange stone to be added to the leather bracelet until the stones completely encircle the wearer's wrist.
CRAIG T. KOJIMA / CKOJIMA@STARBULLETIN.COM
In the men's department at Hugo Boss' new Waikiki store, Ann Waid shows the trench in our cover photo with the skirt removed. Zoe wears a navy blue blouse with polka-dot details ($295) over jeans ($215), a freshwater pearl necklace with gun charm ($225) and matching bracelet ($225), and carries a handbag ($495) with velvet lace-up trim and detachable coin purses. The womens' boots are $495. Mike Chun layers a $275 knit cardigan over a $145 shirt with a striped shirt ($115) thrown over the BOSS Orange ensemble. His jeans are $205 and the hat is $45.
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The BOSS Orange line is divided into three "acts," or narrative arcs.
Act I depicts immigrant youths settling into New York's rough-and-tumble neighborhoods of the 1920s and '30s, mixing individual pieces to create their own personal style. Colors and fabrics are natural and organic in wools and wool-look cloth.
For men, jackets are un-constructed and often overdyed. Shirts feature a myriad of dirty, vintage-feel stripes, with a beige color base.
CRAIG T. KOJIMA / CKOJIMA@STARBULLETIN.COM
The sophisticated look of the BOSS Black line is shown upper left, with Zoe in a silk blouse ($375) and floral-print skirt inspired by Moscow and Japan. The kimono-inspired dress worn by Ann is $850. The womens' shoes are $245. Mike wears a $995 sportscoat over a $175 dress shirt with $85 tie. His shoes are $395.
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CRAIG T. KOJIMA / CKOJIMA@STARBULLETIN.COM
Above, are BOSS Orange ensembles. Mike wears a $1,200 leather bomber jacket over a $250 dress shirt and $275 wool cardigan, matched with $205 Boss handcrafted jeans. Ann wears a $185 sweater vest over a $250 blouse.
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For women, the look features check tweed jackets and skirts, mixed with knitwear and blouses and dresses heavily influenced by lingerie, conjuring up the romantic mood of the boudoir. Ropes of pearl jewelry are accented with gun motifs, reflecting a gangster sensibility.
Eventually, this couple grows up, with increasing sophistication. The young man has perhaps spent time in the military and is courting a woman he adores. He's ready to don a more sophisticated ensemble of cotton moleskin blazer or cotton jacket with epaulettes and gold buttons.
The woman's look is more precise than that of her suitor. Colors include soft pinks, violets, light greens and gold. Sweet touches of embroidery accent wool jersey jackets. Denim pieces range from feminine and soft with touches of embroidery to tougher boot-cut jeans styles with eyelet details.
The story undoubtedly has a happy ending, in true American fashion.
CRAIG T. KOJIMA / CKOJIMA@STARBULLETIN.COM
At right are pieces of men's jewelry from the Boss Orange collection inspired by New York, including gangsters, of the 1920s and '30s. The necklace with multiple charms is $145; the coin piece is $115.
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