JAMM AQUINO / JAQUINO@STARBULLETIN.COM Kaimuki resident Allan Yee was all smiles yesterday after receiving a takeout order of kai see mein, his favorite dish, from Helen Lau at Helen's Chinese Food. Yee sometimes makes two visits a day to the eatery. Helen's, which has been a Kapahulu mainstay for 17 years, will close for good tomorrow.

Fading into memory

Helen's Chinese Food will close after 17 years in Kapahulu

The secrets to Daniel Lau's famous duck noodle soup, beef stew and other specialties are all stored "in my computer," he said, tapping his head.

After tomorrow their inimitable flavors will just be a memory to the dozens of loyal customers who have lined up to eat at Helen's Chinese Food on Kapahulu Avenue. The tiny eatery, with its one-man kitchen and six tables covered with lace and flower-strewn tablecloths, is closing after 17 years.

Helen Lau said, "My husband (who is 73) is tired, sometimes he no have enough energy. Me, I like to see the customers. My husband say, 'I like retire.' I say, 'OK. You happy, I happy.'"

At 70, Helen Lau, with her big smile and motherly demeanor, is the hostess/waitress who makes new customers feel as welcome as the ones who followed the Laus from their previous restaurants over the past 33 years.

An unnamed customer who goes back from "small kid" days to the Lau's first Liberty Chop Suey on South King Street, said, "She knows I like to eat a lot, so she suggests all these things."

Another regular for 15 years, Wayne Tanna, said their duck noodle soup and beef stew have their own distinct flavor and texture that no other restaurant can duplicate.

"It's always nice to see a husband and wife working together. It's a nice place to come. ... I'm gonna miss it. I don't think it can be replaced. We will just have fond memories of it, like when someone dies."

JAMM AQUINO / JAQUINO@STARBULLETIN.COM Co-owner Daniel Lau prepared a fresh batch of won ton in his kitchen.

When he began cooking, Daniel Lau said, "Nobody teaches me. ... From that moment on, I decided to use my brain to cook. Nobody can make it taste the same as me. Many people ask me to teach them, but I cannot."

"Once you taste my food, you never forget it. I'll give you a little bit secret," he said, pinching his thumb and forefinger together as if holding some salt. "Add sugar, salt or starch or Ajinomoto -- whatever you put first, it will come out all different. Go home, try."

Lau said he has never had to advertise since Helen's opened. Rave reviews in the media brought in the business. The turning point came eight years ago on the "Emme's Island Moments" television show when celebrity chef Roy Yamaguchi visited Helen's, his favorite spot.

There were suddenly lines out the door for a year and a half, and Lau lost 18 pounds trying to meet the demand, he said.

"I was busy, busy -- but so exciting, I never felt tired. I'm so happy," he said of his success.

Lau said new owners will renovate and reopen May 17. They will still offer Chinese food but cook with Beijing or Hakka influences instead of Lau's Cantonese style.