Pretty polish

New spring fashions take the uncertain weather in stride

Lucky you live Hawaii, reason No. 542: Spring always arrives, even if somewhat late this year. The same cannot be said for America's first city of fashion, New York City, which I visited late last spring, only to be dismayed to find the weatherman skipped the season, moving straight from winter to summer. Thus all the pretty, flouncy spring apparel that we on Oahu had been prancing in since February, went wasted on New York boutique hangers or in individuals' closets, never to see the light of day lest their wearer be gotcha'd in togs "so last season."

A Look at Spring Neiman Marcus welcomes the season. Shu Uemura Event: Atelier artist Misumi Kitano will give consultations from 11 a.m. to 5:30 p.m. tomorrow and Saturday in Cosmetics, Level One. Hip Event: View the latest spring designer collections, including the premiere of Karl Lagerfeld's exclusive capsule collection for NM. In Contemporary Sportswear, Level One, and Men's Sportswear, Level Three, during store hours tomorrow and Saturday. There will be informal modeling of the Men's Lagerfeld collection from 4 to 7 p.m. tomorrow and 2 to 4 p.m. Saturday. Emilio Pucci trunk show: Giovanni Cafiso will show pieces from the designer's latest collection, 11 a.m. to 5 p.m. tomorrow and Saturday in Designer Sportswear, Level Two. Linda Bergman appearance: Meet the jewelry designer and view her latest collection, 11 a.m. to 6 p.m. tomorrow and Saturday in Designer Jewelry, Level One. DKNY wardrobing seminar: Marie Lynch will show the latest collection from DKNY, 2 p.m. Saturday in Sportshop, Level Two. Cynthia Steffe appearance: The designer will show her whimsical Spring 2006 collection, 5 p.m. Saturday in Contemporary Sportswear, Level One. Call 951-3463 to RSVP.

These days, New York designers are taking no chances on the weather and the climatic unpredictability wrought by global warming. Their fall collections revealed wispy chiffon dresses, halter tops and lacy tunics paired with heavy-duty cable-stitch sweaters, shearlings and tweeds that would allow East Coast women to don springtime threads one way or another, even in October.

Here, we need not bulk up for the elements, allowing us to show spring's best looks in full bloom although, coincidentally, the palette looks suspiciously like a summer one -- good news for those who want to push their wardrobe mileage beyond the season.

Bright girlish pastels and fruity florals of springs past have given way to dusky, muted colors and a sophisticated slate of khaki, beige and sandy neutrals, with designers intent on emphasizing the refreshing power of white.

The look for women is feminine, sleek and modern, with garments stripped clean of the shiny beads and glittery ornamentation of 2005.

Here are a few of the Spring 2006 trends being touted at Neiman Marcus, which is hosting several fashion events this weekend:

For women

The dress: Highly stressed individuals seeking to simplify their morning routines are reverting to the dress. Long abandoned in favor of packing one's closet with multiple mix-and-match separates, the dress fits the mantra "less is more." Dresses are geared toward three types of individuals:

» Modern girls will be wearing classically tailored sheath, shift and shirtdress shapes with dressmaker details such as smocking, ruching and knife pleats.

» Romantic types will favor the softer shapes of crochet, eyelet and lace in soft empire, A-line and slightly flared silhouettes. Touches of embroidery, appliqué, pastel floral prints and lace trims add detail.

» The tribe has spoken and drama queens will find folkloric dresses to match their bold, colorful spirits. Silhouettes are full with handcrafted elements of patchwork, quilting and embroidery, accented by large-scale beads. Primitive woodblock prints, line drawings and tribal patterns add to the worldly outlook.

Wraps and ties: With shapes so simple, dresses, tops and tunics need something of interest to catch the eye, and fluttery wraps and ties do the trick, whether tied just under the bust, empire style, or low on the hips, flapper style, and finished with a pretty bow. Draped togalike styles pair nicely with the season's gladiator sandals. Jackets and cardigans are also cinched with wide leather, suede and exotic-skin belts.

The white shirt: This is a must-have for day and evening. Silhouettes range from sleek and man-tailored to flouncy and feminine in styles to match the dress choices of modernists, romantics and folkloric spirits.

Whites look sublimely fresh with the season's neutrals, pale sun-drenched ecru, bone, shell, mother-of-pearl, blush and cocoa, which can be layered monochromatically from head to toe.

Cropped: Pants and jackets in cropped lengths reflect a pared-down simplicity. Pants come in a variety of lengths and silhouettes, from bubble-shaped short shorts to narrow bermudas, wide gauchos to the skinny cigarettes.

Jackets take many shapes, emphasizing the waist in fitted toreador, boxy bolero or unstructured blouson shapes, with sleeves cropped as well, from elbow to bracelet lengths.

Bold accessories: If the outfit is stripped down, accessories must speak for you, and they have never been bigger. Gigantic slouchy purses look more like luggage than handbags. Pair those with high-heeled Roman-style sandals or 3- to 4-inch wedges and adult jewelry in the form of chains bearing wood or ivory-colored beads.

For men

Neo-prep: Prep-school staples are updated with a modern edge. It's as manageable as putting on a lean-fitting polo shirt -- day or night, casual or formal -- to go with shorts, jeans or flat-front, tapered-leg chinos and a classic navy blazer or tuxedo jacket. Dotted or floral shirts, color-banded V-neck sweaters and woven belts in bright colors complete the look.

Cowboy chic: Even if you didn't see "Brokeback Mountain," you couldn't avoid hearing about the film or seeing denim-ensconced poster boys Heath Ledger and Jake Gyllenhaal looking like the coolest angst-filled cowboys that ever roamed the West.

The cowboy hat is a tad over-the-top if you're not a bona fide cowboy or Waimanalo rodeo star, but yoke-back shirts in small wildflower prints go anywhere with distressed jeans, belts with oversized buckles and boots.

The cool suit: Global warming makes the cool suit, in lightweight wool, silk, seersucker, cotton or linen, a new essential. The suit combines a softly tailored two- or three-button jacket with flat-front trousers in neutral colors from sand to heather.

Mod: Many will love and aspire to the decadent 1960s rock 'n' roll silhouette, but how many will be able to pull off the Savile Row slim fit of stove-pipe trousers and sharply tailored, narrow lapel jackets? Props to guys who try!