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art
E. SHAN CORREA / SPECIAL TO THE STAR-BULLETIN
The frittata, above, can be enjoyed at any meal.


I say strata,
you say frittata

Cousins to the quiche, the two
one-pot dishes can go from
a hearty staple to party fare

Stratas and frittatas. They need to be written about together just because the two names are so cool together. But there's more to the pairing than just rhythm and rhyme. Both stratas and frittatas require eggs as their key ingredient, and although many countries have their own versions of these dishes, Italy is the source for most of their tasty recipes.

Both are simple to prepare, infinitely versatile and come out of the oven pretty enough to be framed. Unless you fancy them up with fresh crab or truffles, they also are inexpensive.

Like their quiche cousins, stratas and frittatas may be baked ahead of time and served hot, at room temperature or even cold. They puff up dramatically while baking, just as the classier (but more labor-intensive) soufflé does and are every bit as moist and delectable when cooled.

One last similarity: Both dishes have long been considered breakfast and brunch staples, and for good reason. Add a bit of bacon, sausage or ham and you'll have created a delicious, one-dish morning meal. But why stop there? With different ingredients varying the basic formula, they're adaptable for lunch, dinner or even party fare.

Stratas and frittatas are good, old-fashioned comfort food, using ingredients you may already have on hand. Their appeal is limited only by the imagination of the cook, so if you keep a few basics in mind, you can easily place one in the center of your dinner or party table.

art
E. SHAN CORREA / SPECIAL TO THE STAR-BULLETIN
Children can help prepare stratas ahead of time and then pop them into the oven for a delicious breakfast.


The strata

Every food glossary carries a fairly uniform definition of the frittata, but good luck trying to find strata defined. Strata recipes abound, and chefs can tell you exactly how they're made, but the search for definitions goes largely unrewarded. Most online search engines provide only geologic terms (remember stratifications, or layers, from geology?) or information about cloud layers, computer programs, golf balls, sociological classes or classical and rock groups.

Although stratas have been made for ages (and recipes have been in print for at least 60 years), the name has come into use only recently. Before that, these dishes were referred to as Overnight Soufflés, Puffy Puddings, Escalloped Cheese and Christmas Morning Lifesavers (or Easter/Thanksgiving Morning Lifesavers), to name a few.

Like bread puddings, which have similar ingredients but are unlayered, stratas may have been devised to use day-old bread. Today, fresh breads, vegetables, fish, poultry and meats are incorporated into the classic formula, but that bread/cheese/egg layering remains the basis of their appeal.

Stratas are not made, they're built. It's so fun and easy that your children could make one without you. The recipe here is perfect for this, although its large size requires some big person to haul the heavy casserole in and out of the oven.

Perhaps the very best thing about stratas is that although they take some time to build, all the preparation can be done hours ahead.

The Christmas Morning Lifesaver got its name, no doubt, because it could be prepared the night before and popped in the oven first thing in the morning. While you open Christmas gifts, make your turkey stuffing or stage an Easter-morning egg hunt, your breakfast bakes to perfection.

You may already have made a strata under another name, but if not, here's a tried-and-true recipe for practicing strata strategies.

Strata to Share

8 tablespoons butter, softened
1 1-pound loaf French bread
8 ounces grated Swiss or Cheddar cheese
8 ounces deli sliced ham
1 4-ounce can diced green chiles, drained
8 eggs
2-3/4 cups milk or half-and-half
1-1/2 tablespoons Dijon mustard
2 teaspoons fresh, or 1/2 teaspoon dried thyme
1/4 teaspoon nutmeg
Freshly ground pepper to taste

Butter bottom and sides of a 2-1/2 to 3-quart casserole with 1 tablespoon of the butter. Cut heels from bread loaf and slice bread into 1/2-inch slices. Lightly butter slices with remaining butter.

Place half the bread slices, buttered side up, into casserole, patching holes with torn pieces to make an even layer. Top with half the cheese and all the ham and chiles. Layer with remaining bread slices and top with remaining cheese.

Lightly beat eggs, then whisk in remaining ingredients and pour evenly over casserole. Press down bread slightly to saturate. Cover and refrigerate at least 12 hours.

Preheat oven to 350 degrees.

Bake strata, uncovered, on middle shelf of oven about 50 minutes, until puffy and golden brown. Serves 10.

Approximate nutritional analysis, per serving: 430 calories, 25 g total fat, 13 g saturated fat, 240 mg cholesterol, 850 mg sodium, 30 g carbohydrate, 2 g fiber, 4 g sugar, 21 g protein.

The frittata

The frittata, once thought of as peasant food, is now the darling of celebrity chefs. You can find thousands of recipes -- featuring caramelized onions and crab, goat cheese and roasted red-peppers, sun-dried tomatoes and roasted garlic and other trendy ingredients.

Frittatas are definitely in, and so simple to prepare (the smoked salmon frittata below takes less than five minutes to put together).

Your frittata may be baked entirely in the oven, as is the one in this recipe, or cooked on the stove and finished under a preheated broiler. On these hot days, you can also prepare one entirely in a frying pan atop the stove. Cook the frittata without stirring over low heat until the top has set a bit, gently slide it onto a rimless pan cover or a plate, then flip it over and back into the pan to finish cooking.

Unlike French omelets, which must be prepared individually, frittatas are ideal for serving a crowd. Double the recipe here to serve eight, or make several before your guests arrive. Frittatas don't have to be served hot.

To make bite-sized appetizers, coat mini-muffin pans with non-stick spray, put the chopped up ingredients in the bottom of each little cup, pour the egg mixture over them and bake in a 375-degree oven for 10 minutes or so. Couldn't be easier.

Like Spanish omelets, frittatas are unfolded and easy to serve. Cool slightly and transfer to a plate before cutting into wedges, or if they're already in a pretty pan or baking dish, just bring that to the table and let your guests cut wedges in whatever size they prefer. They may start small, but will soon be back for more!

Smoked Salmon and Cream Cheese Frittata

2 tablespoons butter
8 eggs
2 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley
1/8 teaspoon fine herbes or fresh dill
Salt and freshly ground pepper
2 ounces smoked salmon
2-3 ounces cream cheese

Preheat oven to 375 degrees.

Place butter in heavy, ovenproof, 8- to 10-inch frying pan or casserole. Melt butter in oven, then cool slightly.

In medium bowl, whisk eggs, parsley and seasonings until blended. Pour into prepared pan. Drop dollops of cream cheese and chunks of salmon over top. Bake until frittata is puffed and set in center, about 25 minutes. Serves 4.

Approximate nutritional analysis, per serving: 290 calories, 24 g total fat, 11 g saturated fat, 470 mg choles terol, 360 mg sodium, 1 g carbohydrate, no fiber, 1 g sugar, 17 g protein.



Nutritional analyses by Joannie Dobbs, Ph.D., C.N.S.


Change it up

Pumping up the flavor: These egg-based dishes can be bland, but ingredients such as chiles, capers, chopped sun-dried tomatoes (not oil-packed), basil or other fresh herbs, green peppercorns and olives add zest. Choose strong cheeses such as sharp cheddars, goat cheeses, Gruyere or grated Parmesan.

Healthful ingredients: When using egg substitutes or even egg whites, or low-fat milk, add extra seasonings to replace the richer taste of whole eggs and cream. A pinch of turmeric adds yellow coloring when not using yolks.

Meat fillings: Fish, crab, poultry, lunch meats and last night's leftovers can be substituted for the typical bacon or sausage.

Veggie fillings: Caramelized onions, bell peppers, zucchini, roasted red peppers, spinach, artichokes, sautéed new potatoes, chard, mushrooms or steamed asparagus.

Sweet thoughts: Many recipes call for berries, liqueurs and vanilla, with a sprinkling of powdered sugar. Or adapt a favorite bread pudding recipe.

Bread choices: Vary your layers, using French, Italian, cracked wheat, rye, sweet or cinnamon bread, or English muffins. Flour or spinach tortillas pair well with seafood; Italian bread with sausage and pesto.

Leftovers?: Slice leftover frittata and add it to fried rice.




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