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Vino is the place
to experience a
variety of wines

Regular readers of this column already know that I'm a beer drinker through and through.

Sure, I'll get a little adventurous and order a froufrou mixed drink or martini every once in a while. And when I'm looking for something with an extra kick, my buddy Jack Daniels is always ready and willing to help take the edge off.

Vino Location: 500 Ala Moana Blvd. (Restaurant Row) Hours: 5:30 to 9:30 p.m. Wednesdays and Thursdays, 5:30 to 10:30 p.m. Fridays and Saturdays Call: 524-8466

But wine? How can anyone enjoy drinking grape juice when there are so many other options out there?

It's simple -- just pay a visit to Vino at Restaurant Row.

IN ORDER to help ease my descent into the world of wine, I enlisted the help of a buddy who has always been into drinking the stuff. When I first met Jason Heller about five years ago, he seemed normal enough (and even shared an affinity for Mr. Daniels).

But the purchase and installation of a wine refrigerator into the bachelor pad he shared with another friend was the first sign of change. He eventually left his job processing mortgages to become a wine broker, and has since started studying to become a master sommelier.

So it was a no-brainer to ask Heller if he'd join me at Vino, an invitation that he happily accepted. A recent Wednesday-night visit found us in the midst of someone's 40th-birthday party, complete with presents and decorations, as we sat at the 10-seat bar.

Open for just over a year now, this place has settled into the former Sansei banquet room and completely embraced the enoteca-style of eating and drinking. Murals of the Italian countryside adorn the walls, with the ceiling painted blue and "clouds" dotting it for added effect. Bricks painted onto a pillar looked a little too fake, however, especially when there are watering holes in nearby downtown that were constructed using the real thing.

Leather couches near the front door and on the opposite end of the room allow for customers to relax a bit more than if they sat at the regular dining tables, giving a more homely feel to eating and drinking with friends.

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FL MORRIS / FMORRIS@STARBULLETIN.COM Sam Anaya, left, and Joanna Sutton enjoy the wine and atmosphere with friends in Vino.

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BUT WHAT about the wine? According to Heller, Vino is an excellent choice for novice sippers and wine snobs alike.

"It's all about sharing, enjoying and the conversation that goes along with it," he said. "There's all this snobbery about drinking wine, but there doesn't have to be."

Heller said he admires owner Chuck Furuya's approach to picking wines for the menu. Instead of serving the same 15 selections that you could find at home or in the liquor department of your local supermarket, Vino allows customers to get experimental and try wines they've never heard of before.

Two-ounce "tastes" give you the opportunity to try a lot of different wines. Heller also noted that Furuya keeps the markup on his wine extremely low, offering it at prices similar to those you'd find at a liquor store instead of a restaurant.

"And he's really good at training his staff," Heller added. "If you ask for a recommendation, they'll be able to give you one."

After ordering a glass of 2004 Sisquoc Vineyard Palmina sauvignon blanc, I get an introduction to terms like color, nose, body, acidity and balance. Heller also showed me how to correctly swirl, examine and taste the wine, including a trick that helps bring out the aroma while tasting (hold the liquid in your mouth while drawing a breath -- the effect is incredible!).

While the decor is warm and friendly, the staff incredibly helpful and the wine selection easily the deepest I've ever seen, I'm not sure I'll be heading back to Vino any time soon. If there's one thing I learned from my visit, it's that I'm still a beer and hard liquor drinker -- no wine for me.

How much for a Bud Light?
Just because you don't drink wine, that doesn't mean you can't pay a visit to Vino. There's a fully stocked bar here, with Bud Light bottles available for $3.75.

Get things to do?
Other than eat, drink and socialize, there's not much else to do. Then again, why would you go to Vino looking for a game of pool or darts? It's a wine bar!

What about the grinds?
Food served on small plates means lots of sharing. You can't go wrong with Vino's Homemade Pizza ($7.75), cut into four slices and covered with gourmet ingredients that change daily. The Crispy Calamari ($6.95) was OK, but you might be better off trying something like the Seafood Ravioli ($9.95), Asparagus Milanese ($6.95), Cheese and Salami Platter ($12.95) or the signature Mini Veal Osso Buco ($11.95).

And the help?
The staff at Vino includes some of the most knowledgeable in town when it comes to wine. If you've got a question, they can answer it -- often with a smile on their face and a sample taste to go with it!