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Willows winner

Jay Matsukawa imparts delicacy
to American dinner menu

The last time Jay Matsukawa was at the Willows, he was the executive sous-chef in the Rainbow Room, housed above the complex's popular buffet room.

It turned out to be a mad experiment -- predating Hiroshi -- to determine whether Hawaii diners were ready to embrace a menu comprising 100 percent "small plates."

They weren't. I loved the choice of dozens of pupu-proportioned delicacies but knew it would be a hard sell. For one thing, it won no converts from the stuff-your-face fests that keep the Willows buffet crowd returning. And then there is the matter of the room that remains more corporate than convivial -- the opposite of the lushness downstairs. The stiffness and living-room lighting upstairs just weren't compatible with the caliber of the menu, and was a big turn-off for foodies, whose sensory antennae are not limited to taste.

After a brief stint at the Plaza Club, Matsukawa is back, this time as executive chef of the Willows, although you wouldn't guess that when you see him, because of his youth and because he's not above the task of clearing tables. Seeing him moving about the dining room, I thought he was a waiter.

The Rainbow Room has become J at the Willows, with a return to the traditional American dinner format. Therefore, there are no more small plates beyond appetizers, which give a feel for what the Rainbow Room was all about.

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GEORGE F. LEE / GLEE@STARBULLETIN.COM Waiter Matias Goñe holds chef Jay Matsukawa's Roasted Rack of Lamb with Brandy Morello Cherry Glacé at J at the Willows.

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START OFF LIGHT with hamachi carpaccio ($12), splashed with citrus and Hawaiian chili pepper sauce, each garnished with a thin slice of garlic, black sesame seeds, slivers of shiso and a light sprinkling of sea salt.

If you want something more earthy, try the braised oxtail ravioli ($10). The pasta pillows are filled with tender oxtail layered with spinach and ricotta, then served with an oxtail and black truffle sauce. It manages to be rich and delicate at the same time.

Both were better choices than the blue crab and lobster cake ($9), which didn't retain enough of the shellfish flavor.

At the time, I wasn't in the mood for potato and cheese croquettes ($9) topped with a spicy scallop and tobiko caviar, but now that I think about it, that combination could be very good. So try it for me, will ya?

As for the main course, there was one each of what seem to be the entrees most in demand: shrimp, fish, duck, beef tenderloin, bouillabaisse, lamb and chicken.

The Midwestern Black Angus ($27) is dusted with peppercorns and spices and sautéed in a shiitake mushroom-butter sauce. Steak doesn't have to be much more complicated than that.

Rack of lamb ($31) gets its own toasted fennel and coriander rub, which is toned down in the roasting process. It's served with a sweet brandy and Morello cherry glacé.

One dish you don't usually see on Hawaii menus is the California striped bass ($27), topped with slivers of applewood smoked bacon, garlic cloves and shallots. It was delicious, accompanied by a separate dish of delightful roasted baby potatoes. The dish could be a reflection of Matsukawa's school days, when he attended the Western Culinary Institute in Portland, Ore. It also represents every chef's dilemma in searching for the new moi while the "fish of kings" continues to be in short supply. When prepared this way, bass is a good substitute though slightly gamier than moi.

Meanwhile, a single duck ($26) order is the equivalent of a two-for-one special: The duck breast is rendered until crispy with a Grand Marnier and Chinese five-spice sauce, while the duck leg is braised in red wine, duck stock and mellow San Marzano tomatoes, with garlic, onions, herbs and white beans.

Dessert takes the form of a trio of $11 trios, under the banners of chocolate, vanilla and fruit. I went against type and chose vanilla instead of chocolate, for which I was rewarded with a scoop of La Gelateria vanilla sorbet, smooth vanilla crème brûlée, and vanilla and pear bread pudding.

I hope more people find their way upstairs to encourage one of Oahu's most promising young chefs. If the ambience is holding you back, consider the bigger picture and close your eyes if you have to.

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J at the Willows 901 Hausten St. (valet parking across from entrance) / 952-6990 Food Service Ambience Value Hours: 5:30 to 9 p.m. Tuesdays to Saturdays Cost: $70 to $80 for two, without drinks