---

Confessions of a man
who loves pink

There was a time that I shied away from the color red. Connotations such as "fire-engine red" and "red hot" set off warning bells. My Asian upbringing was saying, "Don't call attention to yourself -- wear quiet colors."

But with wine tastings to attend -- which means the occasional accidental spill or drip -- the prudence of red dawned on me. The final motivating factor was when my wife and I bought a car that is almost fire-engine red -- these days I look good in red!

This summer I am pleased to report that another of my hidden colors is gaining in popularity -- pink. Rosés, or pink wines, are often considered an inexpensive thirst quencher, somewhat ignored, maligned and forgotten. But in their varied styles, these are versatile food wines.

Produced in France's Loire Valley, Domaine Charles Joguet's Chinon (named after a village in the region) is as I prefer rosé -- fresh and alluring. The 2004 ($14.29) quenches and is clean-tasting with the delicate cabernet franc grape, a cherry-like fruit that dances on the palate. Ideal for lighter cuisine -- salad caprese, marinated vegetables, even lomi salmon.

The world famous rosé by Domaine Tempier in the Provencal region of Bandol (France) is a classic. The 2004 ($30.19) is a textured, lively rosé and is the most versatile with foods. The mourvedre grape differs from cabernet franc, with a lower intensity of fruit and mineral tones of a savory quality. Try it with salty or smoky foods -- smoked octopus, tako poke, pipikaula or rotisserie poultry, and you'll see what the rave is about.

From Spain's Navara region, Bodegas Nekeeas 2004 ($7.39), from master winemaker Concha Vecino, is a rich, supple "pinky" from a blend of the native tempranillo and cabernet sauvignon grapes. From the lush valley of Valdizarbe, beneath picturesque windmills on the foothills of the Pyrenees Mountains, this rosé has sweet cherry and blackberry essence that marries well with grilled eggplant, zucchini, salmon, hamachi or other richer seafoods.

The best value is the Protocolo Rosé 2004 ($6.99) from the Spanish region of Vino de la Tierra de Castilla. The winemaking Eguren brothers blend native grapes -- bobal and tempranillo -- for a leaner, mineral-driven style that makes for a perfect aperitif. Excellent with clams, oysters, langoustines or even smoked salmon.

Does this mean that I'll be trading in my old clunker for a flashy new pink sports car? No way. But you will see me kicking back a refreshing glass of rosé this summer.

---