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Need a lift?The Hullavator roof rack makes
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Thule Racks "Hullavator"
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With the Thule's innovative Hullavator, the kayak only needs to be lifted to about waist height, and the loader fitted with pneumatic gas tubes provides the extra muscle to make loading and unloading a breeze no matter your height or strength.
The Hullavator is an innovative alternative to traditional roof rack kayak carriers. The lift system is engineered to bring the boat loading platform down to the user's level, enabling anyone to load and unload any type of kayak much more effortlessly.
The Hullavator dramatically reduces traditional loading height by more than three feet, reducing the power needed to load a boat to the vehicle's roof rack by as much as 50 percent. That's because gas-assist shocks in the cradle help to raise the kayak onto the vehicle's roof rack.
I've been thinking about adding kayaking to my arsenal of water activities, especially for those no-surf days. So when I heard about the Hullavator, I wanted to give it a try.
This is an industrial-strength, serious rack, and it took me longer than I expected to assemble the first cradle. But like all Thule products -- I've been a Thule devotee for more than a decade -- the fittings and general assembly are practical, and the second cradle came together in just a few minutes. The cradles holding the kayak sit atop another long and narrow rack attachment.
The Hullavator's cradles can be left on the rack -- there's a puka for locks to prevent theft -- but be aware that some parking structures are too low for most Hullavator-equipped SUVs, trucks and vans. At the Restaurant Row garage, I stopped just in time when I saw low-hanging pipes only slightly higher than my roof line. Knowing the height hazards, Thule engineers designed the cradles for easy removal. It takes just a few seconds to remove them.
Another nice feature: The Hullavator can live side by side with other Thule rack carriers -- I have Thule's new Hang Two surfboard carrier on the other side -- because the lift system only requires about 25 inches of space for mounting.
» Front and rear saddles must be brought down evenly. If not, the kayak will twist, and one end or the other could rub against your car. Be careful lowering the kayak and you'll be fine.
» If someone parks close to you at a launch site, you'll need to move your car for more side clearance.
» Tying down your kayak is a breeze with it hanging at hip level, but have your straps ready when loading to prevent the kayak from falling until you get the first strap on.
» Make sure both saddles lock in the down position before lifting your kayak off the rack, or the rack can shoot upward when you remove the weight of the kayak. I used a little extra twisting force on each saddle to make it lock in the down position. Any loading/unloading quirks are easily worked around after a few uses.