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Cool off with bubbly

The summer heat is bearing down and we're looking for great, refreshing wines. There is much to choose from: riesling, sauvignon blanc, chenin blanc ...

But what I've been drinking to cool off and lift my spirits is champagne.

What better wine to serve chilled, celebrate life and enjoy with food?

Many people separate champagne from other wines because of its effervescence. But it certainly pairs well with many foods.

So what's new in champagne? Small producers and what we call "grower" champagne houses.

The champagnes most often available are from "negociant" houses -- producers who purchase fruit or wine for their brands. This list includes the most famous: Moet et Chandon, Roederer, Veuve Clicquot, Perrier Jouet and many more.

Grower-producers use only their own grapes and make their wines in a more artisan, hands-on style. This translates into champagnes with more character, personality and expression.

Pierre Peters Cuvee de Reserve Brut ($35) is a delight. This small producer uses only chardonnay grapes from the famed grand cru village of Le Mesnil (grand cru is the highest ranking of vineyards in the Champagne region of France). It has luscious toasty bread notes, full of flowers and fruit, with hazelnut and lemongrass on the terrific finish. It is supremely elegant and refined, with a really fine mousse. With oysters on the half shell this is a match made in heaven. Simply seared scallops and shrimp with butter sauce also make a delicious combination.

Another family-owned house is Paul Bara, which also uses only grand cru grapes in its Paul Bara Brut Reserve ($39). The grapes come from the village of Bouzy (pronounced booz-e), famous for its pinot noir grapes. Thus the blend is dominated by pinot. This distinctive champagne has a bouquet of minerals, citrus, freshly baked bread and green apples. It has a heavier and richer texture than the Pierre Peters, with a masculine intensity of candied fruit and dried fig. Paired with some smoked salmon and ahi dip on crackers, this would make for a lovely cocktail reception.

The Vilmart house comes from a premier cru village called Rilly. Although premier is one level below grand cru, the wines are exceptional. Vilmart is one of the few houses that uses oak barrels during initial fermentation. This does not impart new wood flavor, as the barrels are large and the wood is old. What it does give the wine is the opportunity to interact with oxygen through the barrel, giving it a complex and mature flavor.

Vilmart Grand Cellier Brut ($49) has notes of pralines and cream, biscotti, honeysuckle and citrus. It is cleansing on the palate and has some caramel in the aftertaste. This wine is beautiful with sushi and could also handle steamed Dungeness crab with drawn butter.

I've never turned down a glass of champagne. The bubbles are infectious, and no other beverage is more associated with celebration. But remember, you don't need a special occasion to drink champagne. You make the occasion special by pouring it.

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