---

Don’t fear
German riesling

When I am asked what pairs nicely with spicy Asian food or Pacific Rim dishes, I often suggest German riesling, and some customers immediately dismiss the suggestion.

It discourages me that many Americans have an aversion to sweet wines such as riesling, yet will enjoy a soft drink with their meals. A cocktail such as a mai tai or Tom Collins has more sugar than most German rieslings, and most mass brands of chardonnay, whether from California or Australia, often contain some sugar.

Sweetness is a natural foil to salty or spicy foods. Wines offer a broad range of sweetness -- not all sweet wines are dessert wines. While some can have the hint of sweetness of a grapefruit, others can be sweeter than a super ripe peach -- good enough to have as a dessert by itself.

Good German rieslings are some of the most delicate, versatile, profound and enjoyable wines in the world. Arguably, riesling is the only white grape varietal that really can convey terroir -- a French term meaning that the wine expresses characteristics of the site where the grapes were grown.

In other words, German rieslings have personalities.

The next time you're planning a seafood meal, visiting your favorite Asian restaurant, preparing for a pot luck or simply enjoying some pupus at sunset, try a versatile riesling instead of your favorite soda.

Some recommendations:

2003 Weinbaudomane Oppenheim Nierstiener Oelberg Riesling Kabinett ($13.50): This shows the essence of the 2003 vintage, with baked apple and pear flavors. It is full and explosive as far as riesling goes, with the sweetness of a ripe apple.

2003 Schonborn Riesling ($13.50): A wonderfully light riesling that has grapefruit and citrus flavors. Not very sweet at all -- just enough sugar to tickle your tongue and keep you coming back for more.

2003 Gunderloch Jean Baptiste Kabinett ($17.99): A sip brings flavors of green apple, grapefruit and violets, with ample mineral qualities.

---