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Tour guide knows Kokee
like back of hand

In the 1960s, Takeshi Fujita came across a magazine article about a 70-year-old man who took children on hikes through a state park.

Although he can't remember the details of the story, he clearly recalls thinking: "Wow, an old man like him doing that! I want to do that, too!"

At the time, Fujita was teaching science and language arts at Waimea Canyon School on Kauai. The perfect opportunity for leading hikes arose three decades later, in 1993, seven years after Fujita had retired from teaching. Hui o Laka, the nonprofit organization that operates Kokee Natural History Museum, launched WonderWalks, a summer hike series in Kokee State Park. This year's program starts next Sunday.

Fujita, a member of Hui o Laka's board of trustees, immediately volunteered to serve as a guide. Twelve years later, at age 76, he remains WonderWalks' most steadfast trail leader.

Ever the teacher, Fujita enjoys having nature as a classroom. Education is the primary goal of WonderWalks, and he views the hikes as a "good way for people to get an introduction to Kokee's forests. I talk about how invasive introduced plants like the banana poka are a threat to the native Hawaiian species because they compete for space, water and sunlight."

Through WonderWalks, Fujita has met visitors from around the world, including Japan, China, India, Canada, Australia, England and Switzerland, as well as the United States.

"We walk at a slow pace so everyone can get acquainted," he says. "That's the beauty of the hikes; we get a chance to make new friends."

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KOKEE NATURAL HISTORY MUSEUM The best way to experience the beauty of Kokee is to venture into the varied landscape of its forests.

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Kokee's 19 hiking trails cover more than 34 miles between the cool 3,200- and 4,200-foot elevations. WonderWalks spotlights six routes (Cliff-Canyon, Kaluapuhi, Puu Ka Ohelo-Berry Flats, Waininiua, Kokee-Halemanu and Pihea), which range from two to four miles in length and vary from easy to strenuous in terms of physical challenge.

Fujita's favorite is the three-hour, 2 1/2-mile Puu Ka Ohelo-Berry Flats Trail, because of the marked variation in scenery.

"Puu Ka Ohelo goes through a Hawaiian forest with native koa, ohia, palapalai fern and mokihana, Kauai's official island flower," he says. "Then you come to Berry Flats, and the environment completely changes. You're surrounded by California redwoods, Australian eucalyptus and Japanese sugi pines; it doesn't look like Hawaii anymore."

If you're in tip-top shape, consider the Pihea Trail. This strenuous five-hour trek traverses four miles along the back ridge of Kalalau Valley, unveiling magnificent panoramas that extend to one of Earth's most incredible cloud forests, the Alakai Swamp. Keep your eyes peeled for brightly colored, sweetly singing birds, including the apapane (a Hawaiian honeycreeper), shama thrush and Japanese white-eye.

The arduous 4-mile Cliff-Canyon Trail to Waipoo Falls also promises seasoned hikers a plethora of scenic thrills. Over the course of three hours, you'll cross Kokee Stream; marvel at sweeping views of Waimea Canyon, where feral goats and white-tailed tropic birds play; and pass thick stands of native koa, ohia, sandalwood, hala pepe and hahalua trees.

"Kokee's trails are remarkable for their diversity in a relatively small area," says Marsha Erickson, executive director of Hui o Laka. "There are trails that provide spectacular vistas of Waimea Canyon and Kalalau, Nualolo and Awaawapuhi valleys. Others wind into the Alakai Swamp, which harbors many plants and birds found nowhere else in the world. There are short trails for families and those who don't have much time, there are great birding trails and there are rugged trails that test even the most physically fit athletes."

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KOKEE NATURAL HISTORY MUSEUM Visitors who merely stop at Kokee's scenic spots get only a limited snapshot of the area. Wonderwalks guides say you must experience Kokee with all your senses.

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Takeshi Fujita's Energy Bars 2 cups Quick Oats 2-1/2 cup Rice Krispies 1 cup unsalted peanuts 1-1/2 cups raisins (cranberries or chopped apricots can be substituted or use a combination of all three) 1 cup sunflower seeds, unsalted 1/2 cup sesame seeds 1/2 stick margarine 10-1/2 ounce package marshmallows 1/2 cup peanut butter Heat oats, Rice Krispies and peanuts in a frying pan for 7 to 10 minutes. Mix in dried fruit, sunflower and sesame seeds. Melt margarine, marshmallows and peanut butter together and add to the dry ingredients. Mix quickly, using a wooden spoon, and press in a lightly buttered cookie sheet. Cool. Cut into bars and wrap individually in wax paper. Yields 60 1-1/4-inch by 2-inch bars.

ADDING TO Kokee's appeal is the fact that it is easily accessible. "It is one of the few mountain forests in Hawaii that has vehicular access," says Erickson. "Also, Kokee is a much-cherished destination whose plants, birds, vistas and places are embedded in mele (songs), chants and the Hawaiian culture. Because of this, it's always worth another trip."

He doesn't hesitate to attribute WonderWalks' success to the quality of its guides. "Each of our guides is a knowledgeable 'interpreter' of Kokee's many fascinating natural sights.

"For example, there's Chuck Blay, a geologist who provides insights into Waimea Canyon's landscapes, and David Kuhn, one of Hawaii's best birders and a pioneer in field recording of Hawaiian birds," Erickson said.

"Takeshi Fujita won AARP's American Retired Educator of the Year Award in 1997 and was honored at the White House. He knows a lot about Kokee's plants and trees, and he's the hands-down favorite with families. His homemade snacks are always a big hit."

Midway through each hike, Fujita shares energy bars -- and the recipe for them (see below) -- with his group. At the end of the trek, he rewards them with slices of his delicious mango fruit bread.

To date, nearly all of WonderWalks' participants have been visitors, but Fujita hopes more kamaaina will come out to see the beauty that's in their back yard.

"So many local residents think they can drive through Kokee, stop at a few scenic spots and say they've seen it," he says, "but to really experience Kokee, you have to involve all your senses. You have to see the views, hear the birds, smell and touch the plants and trees and, if they're in season, taste a Methley plum, lilikoi or strawberry guava. To do that, you have to get out of your car and walk a trail."

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If you go ...

What: WonderWalks

Where: Meet at Kokee Natural History Museum, Kokee State Park. From Lihue, follow Road 50 going west. Beyond Waimea town, turn on Road 550 headed north and pass the 15-mile marker. Turn left just after park headquarters. The museum will be on the right, next to Kokee Lodge.

When: Sundays in June, Saturdays and Sundays in July and August, and the first two Sundays in September. All hikes start at 12:30 p.m. except for the Pihea Trail hike, which starts at 8 a.m., to increase the chance of seeing birds. Check in 15 minutes before the departure time. A list of scheduled hikes is on the Web site below, although this is subject to change, depending on weather conditions.

Cost: By donation (contributions are used by Hui o Laka to support school excursions to the Kokee). Reservations required.

Call: 808-335-9975

E-mail: kokeemuseum@earthlink.net

Web site: www.kokee.org or www.hawaiitrails.org

Notes: Eat before afternoon hikes. Bring lunch on the Pihea Trail hike. Wear comfortable clothes and good walking shoes. Bring drinking water, sunscreen, a jacket and light rain gear. Kokee State Park also offers great camping, trout fishing and seasonal hunting (pig, goat and deer are the primary game). Call for details. Before or after your hike, browse in the museum, which offers great maps, books and displays ("Woods of the Hawaiian Forest," "Native Hawaiian Birds and Introduced Birds of Kauai" and "Shells of Kauai" are among the current exhibitions). The museum is open from 10 a.m. to 4 p.m. daily. Admission is free, but a donation of $1 per person is suggested.

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