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Modern miracles
or Mother Nature?

GMOs -- genetically modified organisms -- are a hot topic in the food industry these days. There is tremendous concern regarding the widespread cultivation of hybrid seeds. Splicing desired traits into DNA have produced insect- and disease-resistant stocks. These modern miracles of science have done much to nourish the world, but there is concern that cross-pollination in the general population could forever change the way we live.

In the wine industry, much research is being done with grape clones. Clones are different from genetic modification in that they are taken from a mother stock chosen for its productive traits. They allow us to focus on garnering favorable qualities -- whether they be better color, aroma, flavor, texture, ability to withstand disease, etc.

When done correctly, cloning makes for better winemaking, and in the end, better wine.

Mother Nature's way of doing things takes a little longer. Some examples are very apparent -- chardonnay and pinot noir grapes in the Cote d'Or, cabernet sauvignon in the Medoc, riesling in Germany, nebbiolo in Piedmont -- mangoes in Kaimuki (although folks in Kalihi might argue that point).

In a time when we are once again beginning to realize and value quality over quantity, the natural selection of obscure or forgotten grapes can lead us back to outstanding wines.

One such example is the famous white-wine grape of Piedmont, arneis. Indigenous to the region, from the town of Roero in northwest Italy, the arneis grape almost died out in the 1950s, but has made a comeback thanks to caring locals. Bruno Giacosa of Barbaresco & Barolo fame was at the forefront of the revival of this unique grape.

The Giacosa Roero Arneis 2004 ($25.59) has a shimmer of green to its canary-yellow hue. Its aromas are of lime zest, light tangerines, grass, almonds and tropical fruits. It is full in flavor, medium-bodied, with crisp acidity and a refreshing finish. Perfect for Hawaii's Mediterranean-like climate and cuisine, it works best with seafood, shellfish or lighter fare.

From the Spanish region of Galicia in the hills of Valdeoraas Valley, the indigenous grape varietal godello has been revived.

In 1975, the Spanish government began a project to restructure and revitalize the once-prosperous wine region of Valdeoraas. A research team led by Horrario Fernandez Presa discovered that the godello (cultivated in the region more than 200 years ago) once prospered in the slate-laden hills.

Founding Bodegas Godeval in the historic monastery of San Miguel de Xagoaza, Presa began the tireless work of reviving the forgotten grape. The site was chosen for its historic ties to the region as well as a wondrous 200-year-old godello vine that sits just outside the winery. Godeval's vineyards are the oldest in the Valdeoraas at age 15.

On my visit to Spain last year, I found that the Bodegas Godeval 2001 ($11.99), with its crisp, textured citrus tones and vibrant acidity, is great with seafood (calamari, langoustines, clams and sardines), lighter meats, mushrooms and milder cheeses.

Not on the brink of extinction, but previously on the list of forgotten varietals, the grenache grape is experiencing a comeback. Winemakers realized its potential, but few were able to harness it in the New World.

A few fine Australian examples are Betts & Scholl 2001 Grenache ($17.99) grown in the sandier soils of Barossa, with textured, elegant, black-cherry flavors; Ross Estate's Old-Vine Grenache 2002 ($19.29) is supple with rich overtones of jam and spice.

To make great wine with a specific grape, Mom Nature has proven that all you need is a little time and patience. Such is the case of Italian arneis and Spanish godello -- quality has always been there and hindsight is 20/20.

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