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Lahaina Inn feels more
homey than home

WE had been on the move since 7 a.m. one hectic day in March. First I endured bumper-to-bumper H-1 traffic to the airport. Then there were long check-in and security lines to face. My flight to Maui was packed, and upon landing I joined another crowd picking up rental cars.

From there, it was on to a meeting. Then another. And another.

By the time I arrived at Lahaina Inn some 10 hours later, I was tense and exhausted. All I wanted was a hot shower.

The inn melted away our stress. Stepping into the lobby, I was whisked from 21st-century madness to the sedate elegance of the 1800s. Rich earth tones, gleaming wood floors, floral rugs, a brocade sofa and chair -- it was exactly how I had pictured the parlor of a British lord's manse. At any moment I expected a nattily dressed domestic to appear with a tray of finger sandwiches and pot of Darjeeling tea.

Adorned with lace curtains, dainty wallpaper, handsome armoires and hand-sewn Hawaiian quilts, the inn's Mauka Suite also was a charming vignette from the past. Outside on the porch, rocking chairs beckoned and I dropped into one, forgoing the shower for a spell.

From this vantage point, the entire length of Lahainaluna Road and a slice of the blue Pacific came into view. Only on the second story, it felt like I was lounging on top of the world.

It didn't matter that there wasn't a concierge, masseuse or golf-course shuttle on site. I didn't miss TV (none of the guest rooms has one) or e-mail (there is no Internet connection either). In the midst of bustling Lahaina, it's possible to escape the hubbub of everyday life and immerse oneself in a more romantic, peaceful, innocent time -- and it was wonderful.

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KENT S. HWANG / SPECIAL TO THE STAR-BULLETIN Lahaina Inn has been restored to 19th-century ambiance, with cozy, impeccable accommodations and delicious home cooking, courtesy of David Paul's Lahaina Grill.

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TONI JOHNSON feels that way every day she goes to work. When she discovered Lahaina Inn was up for sale in January 2004, something in her head and heart clicked: This would be the perfect opportunity to work with her sister and brother-in-law, Debbi and Mike Webster. Three months later, the three partners assumed ownership of the business.

"I had hotel experience with Marriott and Westin, Debbi was a travel agent and Mike brought skills as a handyman to the table," Johnson says. "We balance each other really well and make a great team."

The inn's historic theme was an added draw. The sisters share an avid interest in antiques, and the idea of working in a setting filled with gorgeous vintage art, photos and furnishings had great appeal.

"Our parents are collectors of antiques, and we grew up with them," Johnson says. "Dad restores Model Ts, and we were members of the Model T Club when we were growing up in Denver. We love antiques and have started collecting them ourselves. Also, learning about the history of the inn made us appreciate it even more."

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KENT S. HWANG / SPECIAL TO THE STAR-BULLETIN David Paul's Lahaina Grill features a wine list of more than 350 selections, and casual dining at the bar.

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LAHAINA INN is housed in a building that was constructed in the early 1900s by Tomezo Masuda for his Lahaina Trading Co., a general store that opened on Oct. 8, 1910. It became well known for its mascot, Masuda's German Shepherd Dickie, who would trot to the post office every afternoon to fetch the store's mail.

In 1949, Masuda sold his business to the Tabata family. When their store closed in the early 1960s, the building was bought at public auction by George Izaki, who subdivided the street-level space into four separate businesses and opened a hotel on the second floor.

A few years later, a fire destroyed the hotel and ground-floor businesses, but miraculously the original "frontier" facade did not sustain serious damage. The building was reconstructed, and the hotel, eventually named Lahainaluna Hotel, reopened with 19 rooms and three baths.

The years took their toll on the structure. By the time Rick Ralston, founder of Crazy Shirts, acquired it in 1986, it had deteriorated into a rowdy downstairs bar. Most entrepreneurs probably would have demolished the building, but Ralston chose to restore it, envisioning a quaint 19th-century-style inn decorated with treasures from his extensive antique collection.

He closed the structure for more than two years while the renovation work was being done. Floors were reinforced, electrical wiring and plumbing were replaced, and accommodations were reduced to 12 to allow space in each room for more windows, a private bath and lanai.

Exuding the charm of a country inn at the turn of the last century, Ralston's Lahaina Hotel welcomed its first guests in 1989. Five years later, he renamed it Lahaina Inn to better suit its cozy, homey ambiance.

Johnson and the Websters have preserved the genteel yet welcoming ambiance that Ralston created. Although each room showcases beautiful antique furniture and period photos and paintings, no two are exactly alike.

Recently, Johnson recalls, a young seaman on R&R booked a night at the inn and enjoyed it so much, he wound up staying another night.

"He told us the inn felt like home to him," she said. "His mother had furnished their home in a similar way, with many antiques. When he woke up here, he said he felt he was in a safe, familiar place -- like he was back home."

WHILE THE INN has maintained a relatively low profile, David Paul's Lahaina Grill, on the ground floor of the same building, is savoring all the attention that comes from winning numerous accolades. For the past 12 years, Honolulu magazine's readers have named it the best restaurant on Maui.

Jurg Munch is Lahaina Inn's landlord and the proprietor of 155-seat David Paul's. "They go hand in hand in terms of style and decor," he says. "Having a fine lodging and a fine restaurant under one roof makes for a complete vacation experience."

The night I dined at David Paul's, there wasn't a single empty table. I feasted on seared ahi and foie gras, warm pecan-crusted goat cheese and baby arugula salad, Kona coffee-roasted rack of lamb, macadamia nut smoked pork chop and a sampler of luscious sweets, including the restaurant's signature triple berry pie of fresh raspberries, blueberries and black currants floating on a cloud of whipped cream.

At David Paul's, you can't go wrong. Everything on the menu is superb, and the portions are generous. I departed with doggie bags in hand, happy to have snagged a reservation and that my trip "home" was just up a flight of stairs.

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If you go ...

What: Lahaina Inn

Address: 127 Lahainaluna Road, Lahaina, Maui 96761

Nightly rates: Standard view, $125; ocean view, $145; Mauka and Makai suites, $175 single or double occupancy. Kamaaina rates are $112, $130 and $158, respectively. Check-in time is 3 p.m.; check-out 11 a.m.

Call: (808) 661-0577 on Maui or toll-free (800) 669-3444 off island

Notes: The Mauka and Makai suites have a mini refrigerator and a twin daybed. A comfortable gathering place, the community room is equipped with a television, toaster, microwave and board games. Complimentary newspapers, coffee, tea and hot chocolate are available every morning. Parking is at a reserved lot down the street for $7 per day. David Paul's Lahaina Grill serves dinner from 6 p.m. nightly. For more information, call (808) 667-5117 or visit www.lahainagrill.com.

E-mail: inntown@lahainainn.com

Web site: www.lahainainn.com

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