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A Paniolo Getaway

Enjoy the unspoiled simplicity of
a visit to Molokai Ranch

WHEN you swing into the saddle for the Paniolo Trail Ride, you're bound for a relaxing 90-minute journey through the heart of Molokai's cowboy country.

This activity is aptly named; your guides are real paniolo (cowpokes) who care for Molokai Ranch's 500 head of Brangus cattle. If you're lucky, one of them will be "Uncle Jimmy" Duvauchelle, who has worked at the 65,000-acre ranch -- the second largest in Hawaii after the Big Island's Parker Ranch -- for 39 years.

The 61-year-old Duvauchelle, Molokai Ranch's livestock manager, hasn't had any regrets following in the boot-steps of his father, grandfather and great-grandfather. "I grew up horseback riding and working with cattle," he said. "I grew to love it because it was part of my family life. It's in my blood."

Duvauchelle's company, Molokai Cowboy Connection, runs the Paniolo Trail Ride. He says administrative duties keep him in the office more often than he'd like, so he takes every opportunity he can to hit the trail on horseback. For him a highlight of the tour is meeting people from all over the world, many of whom have never experienced the thrill and joy of being so close to nature and horses.

"The first thing we do is introduce you to your horse," Duvauchelle said. "We explain how important the right approach is; you should give your horse a lot of pats, talk to him and show him that you're a friend."

By doing that, Duvauchelle explains, both the horse and rider start to relax and develop a bond. Even greenhorns who've never ridden a horse before feel a surge of confidence as they pick up the reins.

"We tell you how much your horse enjoys taking you on the ride," he said. "We're not joking; the horses really do enjoy it because they need the exercise and you become a companion to them as well. They know they're safe and you're not a threat to them."

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COURTESY MOLOKAI RANCH Molokai Ranch hands lead horseback tours of the 65,000-acre ranch six days a week. The real-life paniolo like to "talk story" with visitors.

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THE PANIOLO Trail Ride begins at Molokai Ranch's rodeo arena and stables. From there you'll ride on verdant pastureland, past old pineapple fields to the 1,100-foot elevation where a spectacular view of the island's west coast unfolds.

"Looking east, you see the town of Kaunakakai in the distance," Duvauchelle said. "The ocean and beaches are in front of you, including Hale O Lono, where two Molokai-to-Oahu canoe races launch every fall. Across the ocean you can see Oahu, Maui, Lanai and, once in a while, Kahoolawe. On rare occasions, on absolutely clear days, you even can see the tip of Mauna Kea on the Big Island."

From there, riders enter Amikopala, which centuries ago was a quarry where the Hawaiians would collect rocks to make spears, arrowheads, knives and axes. Amikopala lies in the ahupuaa (ancient land division) of Kaluakoi, which means "the adz pit."

"Kaluakoi got its name because of all the basalt that the Hawaiians used to make tools and weapons," Duvauchelle said. Quarries at Amikopala and other areas of Kaluakoi extend over 30 breathtaking acres.

These are vistas that Duvauchelle admits he doesn't always fully appreciate. "We cowboys work outdoors, so we're in nature all the time," he said. "We get so used to it, we think nothing of it. Then we take visitors on the Paniolo Trail Ride, and they say, 'Wow, look at this view! It's so incredible!' We look around, thinking, 'What are they talking about?' Because we see the beauty every day, we become blind to it, but our guests' enthusiasm reminds us of what we have."

The 2-mile ride is done at a leisurely pace, allowing participants to soak in the scenery, get comfortable being on horseback and "talk story" with their guides. "They ask questions about our life on the ranch, and we ask questions about where they're from," Duvauchelle said. "A lot of sharing goes on. We gain, they gain, everybody learns."

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COURTESY MOLOKAI RANCH The Lodge & Beach Village at Molokai Ranch is offering $138 per person per night at the Beach Village ...

... and $178 per person per night at the Lodge through June 15.

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Teri Waros, general manager of the Lodge & Beach Village at Molokai Ranch, calls Duvauchelle a cultural treasure. "I think of the guest who exclaimed, 'People come to see the real Hawaii; now THIS is the real Hawaii!' There's no better way to describe Uncle Jimmy. He's fourth-generation paniolo, passing the traditions along to the fifth and sixth generations; you should see his little 5-year-old granddaughter ride!

"He exudes aloha with his heart of gold, his stories of days gone by, his love of the aina (land) and his devotion to his horses and all living things."

What also makes the ride special, Waros said, is that "you are truly in pristine country. There are no sights or sounds of modern times -- no engines, no sirens, no buildings. It makes it easy for you to slip back in time as you gaze at the rolling green pastureland, deep-blue sea and cotton clouds. One guest told me how wonderful it was for her to breathe in the outdoors. I kind of laughed, but she went on to explain that because of her sensitivity to toxins and environmental pollutants, she loves to come to Molokai Ranch just to breathe the fresh air that we who live here take for granted."

Duvauchelle points out it's also easy to take Molokai's laid-back lifestyle for granted. He has traveled to big cities where "you gotta hurry up and run across the road before the light changes or fight traffic and crowds to get to where you're going. It's a whole different atmosphere; it's hard for me to adapt. When I come home to Molokai, it's such a big relief. I can release all that stress and go back to being my normal self again."

Many guests arrive for the Paniolo Trail Ride tense and harried, carrying the weight of everyday life on their shoulders. Being out in nature on horseback winds up being the perfect relaxant.

"We take it nice and slow," Duvauchelle said, smiling. "That's what Molokai is all about."

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COURTESY MOLOKAI RANCH Participants of the Paniolo Trail Ride trek past old pineapple fields to the 1,100-foot elevation and get to enjoy a spectacular view of the island's west coast.

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If you go ...

What: Paniolo Trail Ride

Meeting place: Molokai Ranch's rodeo arena and stables

Time: 9:30 a.m. and 1 p.m. daily except Sunday. Check in 30 minutes before your ride.

Cost: $85 per person; must be at least 5 feet tall (children's legs should be able reach the stirrups). Reservations and payment must be made 24 hours in advance.

Call: Molokai Cowboy Connection at 808-552-2900 on Molokai, toll-free at 877-88-TRAIL from the other islands, Molokai Fish & Dive at 808-553-5926 on Molokai, or toll-free at 866-269-3900

E-mail: bluedahlin@hotmail.com or fishanddive@mobettah.net

Web site: www.molokai-cowboy.us or www.molokaifishanddive.com

Notes: Wear long pants and closed-toe shoes. A jacket, sunglasses, hat or visor and sunscreen are recommended.

"Spirit of Molokai": Through June 15, the Lodge & Beach Village at Molokai Ranch is offering this package, which includes accommodations, daily breakfast for two and a choice of the Paniolo Trail Ride, a round of golf at Kaluakoi Golf Course or a 50-minute massage per person. The package starts at $138 per person per night at the Beach Village and $178 per person per night at the Lodge based on double occupancy. Call 888-627-8082 or visit www.molokairanch.com to book.

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