Hanagasa has
Okinawan food

OFFICE WORKERS in Japan are a lot like their contemporaries here in Hawaii. After putting in a full day behind a desk, they'll head out with co-workers for drinks and pupus at what's known as an izakaya.

Most izakaya are furnished with tatami mats and low tables, a communal setting based on traditional tenets of Japanese culture. Take the time to search for them, and you'll find some on Oahu that make you feel like you're back in Japan.

Unfortunately, Hanagasa Inn is not one of those places.

Hanagasa Inn Location: 1343 River St. Hours: 11 a.m. to 2 a.m. Mondays through Saturdays; 4 p.m. to 2 a.m. Sundays Call: 531-5988 Rating:

TUCKED AWAY on the mauka side of River Street near Vineyard Boulevard, Hanagasa Inn has appeared repeatedly on my radar over the past few months. A number of friends and co-workers have mentioned this spot as one worth checking out.

The mystique was lost on me, however, when I stopped by last week. After a frustrating 20 minutes of circling Chinatown (and not realizing that River Street continued on the other side of a pedestrian mall named after Dr. Sun Yat-Sen), I finally found it at the end of a one-way street.

Walk inside, and you get the feeling this place is more of a restaurant than a bar.

Approximately 15 high-backed, red booths fill the room, with another six barstools at the bar itself. All of those were occupied when I got there just past dinner time, so I opted for a booth near a group of downtown office drones.

The restaurant vibe continued when our server brought menus and asked if we wanted water. When I tried to explain that I wanted a beer to start, I got a "hold your horses" wave before she disappeared.

When the woman returned, it was with a pad of paper to take our orders -- and she gave me a funny look when all I asked for was a beer and a gin and tonic.

JAMM AQUINO / JAQUINO@STARBULLETIN.COM Patrons at Hanagasa Inn enjoy the food of a traditional Okinawan bar.

MAYBE IT'S the impressive food menu that makes employees assume you're coming here to eat.

Available until 8 p.m., there are a number of Japanese and Okinawan favorites that are worth a try (although I'm not sure how well pig feet soup ($8.95) or goya chanpuru ($8.95) goes with a beer).

Unagi donburi ($8.95) and the shrimp tempura ($8.95) are among the most expensive, but they also come with rice, tsukemono and hot tea. Traditional plate lunch offerings like hamburger steak ($7.95), grilled pork chops ($8.95) and loco moco ($7.95) are also available.

Later in the evening, a pupu menu replaces the dinner selections.

AS IT goes, your experience at Hanagasa Inn might be a little different from mine, especially if you decide to wait until April.

After spending an evening watching the mostly older crowd sip on beers poured over buckets of ice and sing Japanese karaoke, I learned that management of the bar is set to change on April 14. No word if the bar will keep its name or menu offerings in conjunction with the switch.

But if you're a fan of cheap beer and Japanese food, now is the time to make the trip over to River Street.

How much for a Bud Light?
The Barfly drank $2.50 bottles of Bud Light while at Hanagasa Inn. Pay a visit during "Okinawan Minyo and Awamori Night" every second and fourth Saturday, and you can try concoctions like an Awamori Driver ($2.50), or a Southern Island Okinawa ($2.50).

Get things to do?
Other than sing karaoke, there isn't much going on here. Four televisions are scattered around the room, and live entertainment is featured occasionally on the weekends.

What about the grinds?
The ahi poke ($10) was average, but the 10-ounce rib-eye steak ($12) was flavorful and enough for two people. Skip the tonkatsu ($7.95), however, and try the other Okinawan and Japanese specialties instead.

And the help?
Maybe it's because they know things will change soon, but I got the feeling our server wanted to spend more time sitting at another table with her friends than check on us. Service was leisurely at best; you might want to sit at the bar to ensure that you get another drink after you finish the one you're working on.

Been there,
done that

Lewers Lounge
2199 Kalia Road / 923-2311

Recent renovations give this place an updated look while retaining the classy vibe its been known for. The new cocktail menu shines, and its worth visiting just for the ice cubes!

Little Ed's Lounge
46-148 Kahuhipa St. / 235-8405

This bar keeps it simple, with a hodgepodge of tables and folding chairs arranged in front of an elevated stage. Beers are just $2.50, and live music is offered on weekends.

O'Toole's Irish Pub
902 Nuuanu Ave. / 536-4138

Irish eyes are always smiling at this downtown watering hole. Keep this place in mind if you're into live music -- there's entertainment here daily. Call for the current lineup.