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Wines from ‘old world’
a hit at tasting

I recently held a wine tasting for the Honolulu Japanese Chamber of Commerce that sparked quite a bit of conversation. I had hoped to show them some distinct "old world" styles of wines that I suspected many had never tried before. As the room filled, I asked people what wines they drank most often. A majority mentioned that they drank California wine. I feared that most of them would not understand or enjoy the wines I had chosen.

To my delight, almost everyone I spoke to after the tasting enjoyed many of the wines.

They could see that the wines were wonderfully balanced. By balanced, I mean the wines had nothing "sticking" out. None were tremendously alcoholic. The reds were not stringent; the tannin was ripe and smooth. And the acidity levels in the wines were perfectly refreshing. All of this equates to being better suited for food. Here are the wines that proved most popular at the tasting and also come with my recommendation:

The 2001 Leon Barral Faugeres, Cuvee "Jadis" ($29) is one of my favorite "new finds." Didier Barral is a rising star in the South of France. He is a passionate viticulturalist who believes that great wine is made in the vineyard. This is a blend of 50 percent Syrah, 45 percent Carignane and 5 percent Grenache, from vines that are 40 to 70 years old. He adds no sulfur and ages the wine in barrel for two years before bottling it unfined and unfiltered. So what do we get from a great wine-maker and a great vineyard? Great wine!

Another great wine is the 2001 Domaine du Vieux Telegraphe Chateauneuf du Pape ($45). For me, this is one of the quintessential Chateauneuf du Papes on the market. It is primarily Grenache, at 60 percent, with 15 percent each of Syrah and Mourvedre. The average age of these vines is 50 years. It is a true single vineyard wine from the "La Crau" plateau that is covered with a stony and clay soil. This wine received 94 points from Robert Parker.

Both of these wines pair deliciously with roasted game, lamb, venison, pheasant marinated with herbs de Provence and roasted on an open fire.

The 2003 JJ Christoffel Urziger Wurzgarten Riesling Kabinett Gold Capsule ($19) is stellar! The year 2003 is the earliest and hottest vintage for Germany in more than 100 years. No one living can remember anything else like it. The ripeness levels were through the roof, but it is what winemakers did with these ultra ripe grapes that will result in great or just good wine. Robert Eymael is making wines that thread the edge, with wonderful elegance, balanced sweetness and intensity without being overdone or flabby. Anything spicy and oily come to mind? Thai curries and Szechuan cuisine have a perfect affinity to this wine. Refreshing and zippy!

A PERSONAL NOTE of thanks: I have so many people to thank for their helping me attain the level of Master Sommelier. Thank you to all of you.

But the person who I could never do without, and deserves the most thanks, is my wife, Christine. She has been nothing short of wonderful, my biggest supporter and my rock. Thank you!

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