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Mascarpone

Silky cheese adds
a touch of class

There is no tiramisu without mascarpone cheese. Once a rarity in American markets, the soft, elegant cheese is now easy to find, thanks in large part to the popularity of the Italian dessert.

The basics: Mascarpone is a rich double- or triple-cream cheese made from cow's milk. This fresh cheese originated in the Lombardy region of Italy in the late 16th or early 17th century and was generally made in the fall and winter for immediate consumption. Like Italian ricotta, mascarpone was a byproduct in the making of other cow's milk cheeses.

Mascarpone is often compared to American cream cheese, but it is vastly different in taste and texture. Mascarpone is off-white with a soft and delicate texture, comparable to room-temperature butter. It has a slightly sweet flavor without the tangy quality of cream cheese.

Selecting: Mascarpone is sold in small plastic containers that are clearly labeled. Some stores carry domestic as well as imported varieties.

Storing: Mascarpone needs to be refrigerated and should keep for one week or so.

Use: Although mascarpone is best known as an ingredient in dessert recipes, it can be used in savory dishes as well. A favorite Italian spread mixes anchovies, mustard and spices with mascarpone. The cheese can also be added to risottos or pasta sauces for a rich and creamy finish -- or incorporated in a stuffing mixture for raviolis and tortellinis.

Sweetened mascarpone is a main ingredient in tiramisu, along with coffee-soaked ladyfingers and grated chocolate. Italians simply spoon a dollop of mascarpone over fresh fruit.

Where to buy: Just a few years ago it was hard to find mascarpone outside of a few specialty food stores, but today most supermarkets stock it on a regular basis. Prices are a bit steep at $5 to $6 for an 8-ounce container, with imported brands on the pricier side.