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3 DAYS IN...
Bustling BarcelonaThe historic Spanish city
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Rambla: Stroll from Catalunya along this broad pedestrian promenade extending from the square's southwest corner and continuing to the waterfront and column honoring Columbus. The Rambla is Barcelona at its best, day and night. Excellent hotels along the Rambla offer a variety of rates and a central base for your excursions.
All but one lane extending from the east side of the Rambla into the Old Town are for pedestrians only. Rather than walking to the waterfront now, detour into the Gothic Quarter. Half the fun of this layout is getting lost in its alleys, although it helps to have a map and list of destinations for guidance.
One recommended lane is Carrer de la Portaferrissa, lined with fascinating shops and old buildings. It leads to a small but strategic intersection leading to such major destinations as the cathedral, PlaŤa dei Pi, and l'Angel shopping street. For now, swing right to PlaŤa dei Pi for a look at this double plaza with the gothic church of Santa Maria dei Pi. Then continue east toward the cathedral.
Cathedral: Catedral de Seu was first built in the 13th through 15th centuries in the gothic style, with a soaring nave, pointed arches, tall columns, 28 side chapels and a spectacular cloister that is home to a flock of noisy geese with attitudes. Take the elevator to the roof for a stunning view of the town as an orientation for walks to come. This location atop a low hill was home to an earlier Roman temple, then a sixth-century church, so it's no wonder adjacent lanes are dense with historic structures and small plazas.
Royal palace: One block east you will find the former home of kings and queens, the Palau Reial or Royal Palace, now a history museum, the Museu d'Historia de la Ciutat. In 1493, Columbus reported his great discovery of the New World to Ferdinand and Isabella in the palace's spectacular Banqueting Hall, "Salo del Tinell," whose roof is formed by the largest medieval stone arches in Europe. Several other halls and chambers exhibit period paintings, furnishings, weapons, altars and artifacts.
An even more ancient world awaits below street level. The elevator is a time machine whose button says "-2,000 years" rather than "basement," and brings you 30 feet down to the original Roman streets where you can see foundations of former houses, wineries, bakeries, leather factories and fortified towers. Smooth paving of the streets and sewers attest to Roman engineering skills behind the world's most sophisticated cities.
PlaŤa de Sant Jaume: The main Roman street intersection in the underground museum is in approximately the same location of the modern plaza Sant Jaume, home to the city and regional government headquarters. On Sunday afternoons the plaza fills with locals dancing the graceful Sardana, a 1,000-year-old Catalan tradition. A lively road, Carrer de Ferran, runs through the plaza, where throngs are drawn to restaurants and small shops open to 8 or 9 p.m. (they close in the afternoon for siesta).
Music of all kinds emanates from the streets filled with buskers who rely on tips for their income. When you hear some decent sounds, stop awhile and don't forget to drop a few coins.
A few blocks west is Carrer d'Avinyo, which is a pleasure to stroll. Just two blocks further is another main square, the large PlaŤa Reial, surrounded by classic arcades that are home to several popular cafes. Five blocks south brings you to Passeig de Colon, a wide boulevard along the water's edge.
Waterfront: You could easily spend the rest of the afternoon along the waterfront, visiting two major museums and Europe's largest aquarium, containing 8,000 fish. This open, sunny area feels like another world compared with the constricted lanes of the Old Town. Palm trees, outdoor restaurants with views of the Port Vell marina, wide busy streets, and a mix of modern and old buildings make this a refreshing change of pace.
Nautical buffs will surely enjoy the naval history museum, Museu Maritim, housed in the original shipyard structure that partly dates to the 13th century. It is one of Europe's largest secular medieval buildings. Centerpiece of the collection is the 200-foot-long reconstruction of an oar-powered galley, the warship manned by 400 sailors in the Battle of Lepanto which defeated the Turks in 1571, keeping Muslims out of Christian Europe. Many other ships and displays of daily life in previous centuries could keep you captivated for hours.
The other large waterfront museum is the Museum d'Historia de Catalunya, which offers "a stroll through history" from the Stone Age through modern times in a huge, restored, brick warehouse. Four floors of exhibits take you on a multimedia journey covering the Bronze Age, Romans, early Christians, Visigoth arrival, 19th-century industrialization, up to today.
Park Guell is a good place to start to look for architectural masterpieces created by Antoni Gaudi (1852-1926).
Gaudi: After breakfast, begin your hunt for architectural masterpieces created by Antoni Gaudi (1852-1926), Barcelona's most famous architect. Start at Park Guell, accessible by public bus or metro. Try to arrive at opening time of 10 a.m. to beat the crowds for an unobstructed look at the fantasy structures. The park pavilions are a colorful whirl of curved surfaces, looking something like big ice cream sundaes, inspired by "Hansel and Gretel" and other fairy tales. Bright ceramic mosaics liven up the surfaces in the "trencadis" style of ornamentation, especially on the sinuous benches that line the upper terrace. A landmark lizard fountain guards twin stairs leading up to the 86-column Hypostile Hall, which was to be a covered food market for a housing development that never materialized. Instead, we have this brilliant 37-acre park with winding pathways, stone porticoes and pavilions. Gaudi lived on the property in a house that has been converted into a small museum of his memorabilia.
Exit the east side of the park and walk a block to the public bus stop to catch a ride to Gaudi's monumental masterpiece, Sagrada Familia.
Sagrada Familia: This unfinished church is like a whimsical, steel-beam mountain growing out of the landscape. Gaudi died while it was under construction. Barcelonans have been working on the church for a century, and at this rate will probably continue to do so for another century. Residents still argue over how to get the work done and how to pay for it, but Sagrada Familia remains open to the public. An elevator takes you most of the way up one of the towers; walk a bit further to the top. The view affords an incredible panorama of Barcelona's skyline and details of the Sagrada Familia's towers. Ground-floor exhibits help you envision the final project.
This bizarre building is not everyone's cup of tea, but it has become a symbol of Barcelona, so have a look. Take the metro stop here to the center of town.
Bus tour: It might be time to hop onto an open-top sightseeing bus for a two-hour city tour. Sagrada Familia is a major stop for all tour buses. Purchase your ticket on board, grab a seat upstairs and settle in for a ride past the outskirts of town you would never get to see by walking. The bus ride is not essential because all the major sites are back in the center, but you are probably curious about what the rest of the city looks like. The bus tour passes the University district on the west edge of town, the soccer stadium and broad boulevards lined with apartment houses. Several different routes are available, covering both side of the city. This bus tour will take up most of the remainder of the afternoon, leaving time for a leisurely dinner and evening stroll.
Mercat de la Boqueria is a food market that comes to life early in the morning and is a good place for coffee and snacks.
Barri Gotic: Walk from the southeast corner of PlaŤa de Catalunya to the broad pedestrian lane, Portal de l'Angel, leading into the heart of the Gothic Quarter. Take a left on Carrer Comtal and walk a few blocks to Palau de la Musica Catalana. This UNESCO World Heritage Site is a major music hall built in the late 19th century in the Modernista style, embellished with statues of musicians and mythological characters. For a taste of an ordinary working-class neighborhood away from the tourist path, walk a few blocks east, then turn south. Otherwise, head south from the music hall toward the Picasso Museum.
La Ribera: Entering the section of old Barcelona, La Ribera, you will find the main walkway Correr Montcada, which changes names a few times while taking you through the historic center. In the Middle Ages this area was home to palaces, many still standing but adapted to new uses, such as the Picasso Museum. Love the artist or not, Pablo was one of the greatest artists of the 20th century and lived in Barcelona during his formative years, from ages 14 through 23. This is the most popular museum in town, with one of the world's largest Picasso collections spread through five mansions, once separate but now seamlessly joined.
After lunch, head for the large gothic church, Santa Maria del Mar, with a massive interior. Behind the church is the tree-lined Passeig del Born promenade that points toward the public zoo, Parc de la Ciutadella, a half-mile east.
The afternoon and evening are free for you to wander back through the Gothic Quarter, fill in the gaps in your schedule and absorb more of this magical city.
Best Western Premier Hotel Regina: Bergara 2-4, Barcelona 08002. Call 301-3232; fax 318-2326; rates $222 to $369 per night
Catalonia Albinoni: Portal de l'Angel, 17, Barcelona. Situated in heart of the city, just off the Plaza Cataluna and near the Gothic quarter. Call 318-4141; fax 301-2631; $146 to $243.
Catalonia Duques de Bergara: Bergara 11. First-class downtown hotel in art-nouveau building dating from 1889, adjacent to central train station. Call 301-5151; fax 317-3442; $244 per night.
Colon Hotel: Avenida Catedral 7, Barcelona 08002. First-class popular Gothic-style hotel facing 13th-century cathedral in city's Gothic quarter, two blocks from Ramblas Promenade. Call 301-1404; fax 317-2915; $191 to $431, www.hotelcolon.com.
Hotel Husa Barcelona: Caspe, 1 a 13. Modern facilities with some balconies, near Catalunya Square and the Gothic Quarter. Call 302-5858; fax 301-8674; $132 to $281.
Le Meridien Barcelona: Ramblas 111, Barcelona 08002. Moderate deluxe downtown hotel close to business area and major tourist attractions. Call 318-6200 or 800-543-4300; fax 301-7776; $406 to $615.
Rivoli Ramblas: Rambla dels Estudis 128. First-class hotel with Art Deco furnishings and soundproofed, air-conditioned rooms in the heart of the city, near shopping. Call 481-7676; fax 317-5053; $230 to $481.
Royal: Ramblas 117, Plaza de Cataluna. First-class with modern comforts and amenities in city center near Catalunya Square. Call 301-9400; fax 317-3179; $125 to $200.